DM-1 Spec Weight Loss Program
#16
All,
Don't spend your money on titanium etc. It will not be any faster anyway. With these Gt-cars it's all about the handling of the car, smoothness of the clutch and driving.
First, if your driving is not constant, (say every lap inside same 0.5sec and usually more qualifiers without mistakes than qualifiers with mistakes..) focus on the driving and working with the setup. Spend the extra money to the fuel, tires and engines. It gives the better pay-back for the money.
If you still want to go for the lighter car, the best solution is the brains and the dremel, not the money and titanium.
Waste the windows of the body, waste the rear bumper and the diffuser, shorten the body-posts. change the cooling head to 1/8 onroad cooling head. Change the rear upper arms to normal buggy type ones (gives more tracktion also). Dremel the plastics!! thats the heavy part, not the metal. And use LiPo for the receiver.
That was the recipe for me to win the nationals last summer..
-X-
Don't spend your money on titanium etc. It will not be any faster anyway. With these Gt-cars it's all about the handling of the car, smoothness of the clutch and driving.
First, if your driving is not constant, (say every lap inside same 0.5sec and usually more qualifiers without mistakes than qualifiers with mistakes..) focus on the driving and working with the setup. Spend the extra money to the fuel, tires and engines. It gives the better pay-back for the money.
If you still want to go for the lighter car, the best solution is the brains and the dremel, not the money and titanium.
Waste the windows of the body, waste the rear bumper and the diffuser, shorten the body-posts. change the cooling head to 1/8 onroad cooling head. Change the rear upper arms to normal buggy type ones (gives more tracktion also). Dremel the plastics!! thats the heavy part, not the metal. And use LiPo for the receiver.
That was the recipe for me to win the nationals last summer..
-X-
#17
...Change the fly-wheel to normal-size and lower the engine mount.
The engine will drop down easily 5-6mm...
-X-
The engine will drop down easily 5-6mm...
-X-
#18
Tech Addict
I agree that practice will make you faster than any mod one can do to any car. Once you are very consistent then every bit helps. Money spent on good tires and time for setup are priceless in our hobby.
#19
Also, if you want to invest in something, install a centax-clutch in the car (MRX4 or Evolva or any). You will see the lap times go down immediately. Needs a little bit of grinding though..
-X-
#20
If you feel the brakes fading, the fix is Mugen brakes with steel disc.
-X-
-X-
#21
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
DM1
I used Mugen parts to to that but U can use Jammin parts also, if you have them at home, it does not really matter. The thing is to allow the suspension to twist like a propeller, during the acceleration. I don't know what kind of tracks you have, but in here, more tracktion is always better and faster.
Also, if you want to invest in something, install a centax-clutch in the car (MRX4 or Evolva or any). You will see the lap times go down immediately. Needs a little bit of grinding though..
-X-
Also, if you want to invest in something, install a centax-clutch in the car (MRX4 or Evolva or any). You will see the lap times go down immediately. Needs a little bit of grinding though..
-X-
Quite a few guys here have tried the Centax type clutch, but they just could not get them to work with the heavy car.
I thought about selling my DM1, as I just dont have time to use it, but looks like I will hang on to it. I would like to try the Mugen<or Kyosho> clutch set up.
What did you have to do to modify your clutch to work
Only other mods to the car itself is I also did the front shock mod. This simple mod. to the shock tower was a great improvement.
This DM1 has got to be the quickest DM1 I have even seen, and is a blast to drive. I had the engine modified by Team Kamikaze, so they get all the credit for the unreal power. But I have always wondered how the car would work with a better clutch set up
#22
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Thers are bolt on, adjustable, shoe style clutches made by Werks and Fioroni. Here is a link to one type:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-System-Carbon
The clutch is not externally adjustable. You have to remove the clutch bell to make adjustments, just as you would have to if you replaced springs in a standard 3 shoe clutch.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-System-Carbon
The clutch is not externally adjustable. You have to remove the clutch bell to make adjustments, just as you would have to if you replaced springs in a standard 3 shoe clutch.
#24
Tech Rookie
Stock 11.1oz / 314grams
Kinghead 10.0oz / 285grams $100
Max V. 5.5oz / 155grams $150
I think if really want lighten the car, carbon is the way to go...
King looks sexy but doesn't drop enough weight to justify the purchase.
If you brake the carbon chasiss with that hard of a hit your going
to replace way more parts than just the chassis....
I'm speaking from a racing stand point...If you only bash and rip up
k-mart parking lots and burning up clutch shoes go with the king. It hold up on a lot better on that type of surface.
Kinghead 10.0oz / 285grams $100
Max V. 5.5oz / 155grams $150
I think if really want lighten the car, carbon is the way to go...
King looks sexy but doesn't drop enough weight to justify the purchase.
If you brake the carbon chasiss with that hard of a hit your going
to replace way more parts than just the chassis....
I'm speaking from a racing stand point...If you only bash and rip up
k-mart parking lots and burning up clutch shoes go with the king. It hold up on a lot better on that type of surface.
#25
Tech Addict
Stock 11.1oz / 314grams
Kinghead 10.0oz / 285grams $100
Max V. 5.5oz / 155grams $150
I think if really want lighten the car, carbon is the way to go...
King looks sexy but doesn't drop enough weight to justify the purchase.
If you brake the carbon chasiss with that hard of a hit your going
to replace way more parts than just the chassis....
I'm speaking from a racing stand point...If you only bash and rip up
k-mart parking lots and burning up clutch shoes go with the king. It hold up on a lot better on that type of surface.
Kinghead 10.0oz / 285grams $100
Max V. 5.5oz / 155grams $150
I think if really want lighten the car, carbon is the way to go...
King looks sexy but doesn't drop enough weight to justify the purchase.
If you brake the carbon chasiss with that hard of a hit your going
to replace way more parts than just the chassis....
I'm speaking from a racing stand point...If you only bash and rip up
k-mart parking lots and burning up clutch shoes go with the king. It hold up on a lot better on that type of surface.
The Lipo helps a lot as well as cutting the wires to the lenght that is needed and no huge cable mess. The battery box can either be drilled or just using a smaller one helps. Drilling the head of the motor as well as using an onroad head helps as well. The center diff (2 speed) supports come in lightweight as well. I'm using lightweight shock mounts, they are for 16mm shocks but with some dremel work work very well. A micro reciever will be great if you have it (I use a Spektrum pro reciever) it is about the same size as a dime. This helps in using a smaller box as well. I don't use a switch so direct connect works. Since I use Spektrum brand reciever I don't need a voltage regulator.
Like others said with a little imagination lots of things can be modded to save weight just be sure to have a spare of every thing you put the dremel to since they will be more likely to break in a collision.
#26
Tech Addict
I almost forgot to warn people about cutting wires in servos. If you do this ALL warranties are voided so don't expect any free exchanges. Also if you decide to do this and don't have either experience or a good quality soldering iron with the appropiated tip don't do it. The servo boards are very sensitive to heat so be very very very carefull.
#27
With exception to the chassis; everything is CF on my DM1 Spec. So far so good.
But it really comes down driving skills, setup and the track you run in.
Has anyone tried to offset 1.5mm hubs for the rear? I recently got them and gonna try them out.
But it really comes down driving skills, setup and the track you run in.
Has anyone tried to offset 1.5mm hubs for the rear? I recently got them and gonna try them out.
#28
Hi do anyone know where I can buy a carbon chassis for my DM-1
I think max v no more stock .pls pm me if u have any source or info thank u
Happy R/C
I think max v no more stock .pls pm me if u have any source or info thank u
Happy R/C