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Old 04-03-2010, 01:12 PM   #16
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All,

Don't spend your money on titanium etc. It will not be any faster anyway. With these Gt-cars it's all about the handling of the car, smoothness of the clutch and driving.

First, if your driving is not constant, (say every lap inside same 0.5sec and usually more qualifiers without mistakes than qualifiers with mistakes..) focus on the driving and working with the setup. Spend the extra money to the fuel, tires and engines. It gives the better pay-back for the money.

If you still want to go for the lighter car, the best solution is the brains and the dremel, not the money and titanium.

Waste the windows of the body, waste the rear bumper and the diffuser, shorten the body-posts. change the cooling head to 1/8 onroad cooling head. Change the rear upper arms to normal buggy type ones (gives more tracktion also). Dremel the plastics!! thats the heavy part, not the metal. And use LiPo for the receiver.

That was the recipe for me to win the nationals last summer..

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Old 04-03-2010, 01:15 PM   #17
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...Change the fly-wheel to normal-size and lower the engine mount.

The engine will drop down easily 5-6mm...

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Old 04-03-2010, 07:33 PM   #18
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All,

Change the rear upper arms to normal buggy type ones (gives more tracktion also).
What kind? Jammin?

I agree that practice will make you faster than any mod one can do to any car. Once you are very consistent then every bit helps. Money spent on good tires and time for setup are priceless in our hobby.
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Old 04-04-2010, 04:05 AM   #19
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What kind? Jammin?

I agree that practice will make you faster than any mod one can do to any car. Once you are very consistent then every bit helps. Money spent on good tires and time for setup are priceless in our hobby.
I used Mugen parts to to that but U can use Jammin parts also, if you have them at home, it does not really matter. The thing is to allow the suspension to twist like a propeller, during the acceleration. I don't know what kind of tracks you have, but in here, more tracktion is always better and faster.

Also, if you want to invest in something, install a centax-clutch in the car (MRX4 or Evolva or any). You will see the lap times go down immediately. Needs a little bit of grinding though..

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Old 04-04-2010, 04:12 AM   #20
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If you feel the brakes fading, the fix is Mugen brakes with steel disc.

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Old 04-04-2010, 04:35 AM   #21
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I used Mugen parts to to that but U can use Jammin parts also, if you have them at home, it does not really matter. The thing is to allow the suspension to twist like a propeller, during the acceleration. I don't know what kind of tracks you have, but in here, more tracktion is always better and faster.

Also, if you want to invest in something, install a centax-clutch in the car (MRX4 or Evolva or any). You will see the lap times go down immediately. Needs a little bit of grinding though..

-X-
I have the DM1 spec, and it is a rocket with the Pico 21 modified <on-road motor> I use the Off road head, and even without cutting out the air hole in the front windshield, the engine has never came in over 220 degrees.
Quite a few guys here have tried the Centax type clutch, but they just could not get them to work with the heavy car.
I thought about selling my DM1, as I just dont have time to use it, but looks like I will hang on to it. I would like to try the Mugen<or Kyosho> clutch set up.
What did you have to do to modify your clutch to work
Only other mods to the car itself is I also did the front shock mod. This simple mod. to the shock tower was a great improvement.
This DM1 has got to be the quickest DM1 I have even seen, and is a blast to drive. I had the engine modified by Team Kamikaze, so they get all the credit for the unreal power. But I have always wondered how the car would work with a better clutch set up
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Old 04-04-2010, 12:28 PM   #22
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Thers are bolt on, adjustable, shoe style clutches made by Werks and Fioroni. Here is a link to one type:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-System-Carbon

The clutch is not externally adjustable. You have to remove the clutch bell to make adjustments, just as you would have to if you replaced springs in a standard 3 shoe clutch.
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:10 AM   #23
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Opening this topic back up. Any new weight-reducing possibilities come up since we last discussed? Thanks!
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:42 AM   #24
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Stock 11.1oz / 314grams
Kinghead 10.0oz / 285grams $100
Max V. 5.5oz / 155grams $150
I think if really want lighten the car, carbon is the way to go...
King looks sexy but doesn't drop enough weight to justify the purchase.
If you brake the carbon chasiss with that hard of a hit your going
to replace way more parts than just the chassis....

I'm speaking from a racing stand point...If you only bash and rip up
k-mart parking lots and burning up clutch shoes go with the king. It hold up on a lot better on that type of surface.
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:26 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by ny187blacksheep View Post
Stock 11.1oz / 314grams
Kinghead 10.0oz / 285grams $100
Max V. 5.5oz / 155grams $150
I think if really want lighten the car, carbon is the way to go...
King looks sexy but doesn't drop enough weight to justify the purchase.
If you brake the carbon chasiss with that hard of a hit your going
to replace way more parts than just the chassis....

I'm speaking from a racing stand point...If you only bash and rip up
k-mart parking lots and burning up clutch shoes go with the king. It hold up on a lot better on that type of surface.
The advantage of the Kingheadz chassis is not the weight difference alone. The 1oz savings is a plus. The 7075 aluminum is way better material and it alows the suspension to work properly. Like I said before I have my DM1 very light without using a carbon chassis, wish lowers by 8oz the weight. I'm using aluminum screws everywhere that I can. But only on the top side, if you use them at the chassis side they will break (chassis twisting?). I have tried them with the Kingheadz chassis though, this one wont flex as much as the stock one.

The Lipo helps a lot as well as cutting the wires to the lenght that is needed and no huge cable mess. The battery box can either be drilled or just using a smaller one helps. Drilling the head of the motor as well as using an onroad head helps as well. The center diff (2 speed) supports come in lightweight as well. I'm using lightweight shock mounts, they are for 16mm shocks but with some dremel work work very well. A micro reciever will be great if you have it (I use a Spektrum pro reciever) it is about the same size as a dime. This helps in using a smaller box as well. I don't use a switch so direct connect works. Since I use Spektrum brand reciever I don't need a voltage regulator.

Like others said with a little imagination lots of things can be modded to save weight just be sure to have a spare of every thing you put the dremel to since they will be more likely to break in a collision.
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:32 PM   #26
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I almost forgot to warn people about cutting wires in servos. If you do this ALL warranties are voided so don't expect any free exchanges. Also if you decide to do this and don't have either experience or a good quality soldering iron with the appropiated tip don't do it. The servo boards are very sensitive to heat so be very very very carefull.
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Old 06-06-2011, 07:07 PM   #27
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With exception to the chassis; everything is CF on my DM1 Spec. So far so good.

But it really comes down driving skills, setup and the track you run in.

Has anyone tried to offset 1.5mm hubs for the rear? I recently got them and gonna try them out.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:37 AM   #28
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Hi do anyone know where I can buy a carbon chassis for my DM-1
I think max v no more stock .pls pm me if u have any source or info thank u

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Old 03-26-2012, 01:04 PM   #29
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"Simplify, then add lightness."

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