McD44

iTrader: (16)

Kick up or Anti-Squat? Kick up is in the front, Anti-Squat is in the rear.

But to answer your question the difference is 1.5°

I think you're talking about anti-squat. Here's a rudimentary explaination: http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...ng-anti-squat/

It's best to experiment with it yourself to see what works for you and your track.

Xiiaoda

Yup i was talking about anti squat, thanks mate! Will test out different degrees of it but cant seem to find the 1.5° degree one in the bag of spares. So im gonna start off with 3°, hopefully there's enough rear traction on my local track

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Did you buy used? It should definitely be in there.

Xiiaoda

Yup i bought a 2nd hand kit, the previous owner upgraded the toe in/anti squat piece to an aluminium 3/3 one. Managed to dig out the 3/0 and 3/3 plastic ones from the bag of spares but just couldn't find the 3/1.5.

Regretted buying just a couple of weeks earlier, cost me twice the amount compared to ordering one from amain now. At least the previous owner hopped up some of the parts.

P6

iTrader: (5)

Go aluminum or brass as soon as you can the brass adds weight but ether is better than the plastic they are a weak point if you wanna insure finishing races or not having to go pick you dex up off the track .. I have both brass 30g and the tresrey 14g that few grams just means battery forward more, I kept getting myself in those situation ill never buy used again seems every time I do the price drops and I've spent more than that on spare parts or parts that the last guy didn't include or fresh oil means almost black with bad orings in the end it's never worth it unless its a crazy low price

shagino

iTrader: (57)

There was no way to know. I got both of my buggies used.

Agree with P6, aluminum is the way to go. I run the Tresrey 3/2. Rcjunky1 on the forums makes one that can do 0/1.5/3 with shims. It's really nicely done.

Where are you from? If you're in the US, I can send you a 1.5 to try out. I pretty much throw them straight in the trash.

Xiiaoda

Thanks man but sadly im in singapore haha. The current one im using is an aluminium 3/3 and it says 30g on it. The previous owner used it for RM3 set up, so im not sure whether it will be suitable for MM4. Most MM4 setup i have seen are 1.5° anti squat

shagino

iTrader: (57)

No worries. I'd honestly try the MM4 setup with the 3* aluminum first.

Xiiaoda

Btw is there a bible for braking? I personally like to jam the brakes but its very risky. I watched race videos and i always draw my focus to how the pros brake. For example jorn Neumann is able to control exactly when he wants his rear to swing just before the table top, but on other turns he is able to slow his buggy down all the way in such a short time period and turn without losing traction at all.

My brake settings are
Drag brake: 10%
Brake force: 50%
Initial brake force: drag brake

Is there anything wrong with it? Im relatively new in this hobby so im not sure of other braking techniques other than jamming it.. Hope some of you pros out there can help with the noobie me.

JK47

I don't drive a DEX210, but I would like a discussion on this topic as well. Maybe you can start a new thread?

dolfns1

Local guys told me to run the Shorty. We're would placement be at the middle ,front , back and do I reverse battery holder to keep it in place? Thanks

EvanAZ

iTrader: (99)

Just picked up a couple of DEX210 buggies for our program, now looking for spares for them and possibly trading a couple of B4's/T4's for either more rollers.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post12504318

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Mines is in the middle. I have the battery connectors towards the rear so I leave the battery holder as is.

RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

My battery is as far back as physically possible.

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

Guys. Super clean roller with tons hop ups/spares in F/S section.