Schumacher Corner
03-05-2008, 01:33 PM
My SP10.5 is still slower than Novak 10.5 w/ 13mm rotors. I've tried pretty much everything, and still cant be as fast as they are down the straight, which will give them about a .4 / .5 sec per lap advantage
I've even geared down to like 4.66 FDR and ran timing all the way up to #9 and still no up to speed.
I'll be doing some more testing later today and try and figure out what the pblm might be.
My 10.5SP vs Novak 10.5 with std rotor are pretty much equal...the problem is when they install the 13mm rotors on the Novak 10.5- they can gear down and run cooler and get more rip and top end and makes my 10.5 look sloooooooowww...I have to figure this out ASAP
Las week FSEARA race#2 at MDI, for the mains I geared at 4.70FDR using timing #6, and it was defenitely faster and could hang witht he 10.5 Novak w/ 13mm rotors, but then it started cogging and suddenly stop for about a second or two, then it would allow me run again for about a a lap or two, then stop again, untill I got hacked. Maybe it was thermal shutdown? Dont know, but if it was, I had a fan on the ESC and fan+heatsink on motor, and it should not have been thermaling. I dont think it was thermal, but rather possible wire/soldering connections to motor or esc?...Dont know.
But geared at 4.70FDR with timing #6 was the fastest its been so far down the straight; not as fast as 10.5 Novak w/ 13mm rotors, but very, very close, so that I was pulling 13.7-8 sec lap times consistently, untill it began stalling on me....the Novak 10.5 w/13mm rotors where just a bit faster down the straight, which I can live with.
Any suggestions/tips from those of you running on outdoor asphalt tracks(rubber tires).?
I've even geared down to like 4.66 FDR and ran timing all the way up to #9 and still no up to speed.
I'll be doing some more testing later today and try and figure out what the pblm might be.
My 10.5SP vs Novak 10.5 with std rotor are pretty much equal...the problem is when they install the 13mm rotors on the Novak 10.5- they can gear down and run cooler and get more rip and top end and makes my 10.5 look sloooooooowww...I have to figure this out ASAP
Las week FSEARA race#2 at MDI, for the mains I geared at 4.70FDR using timing #6, and it was defenitely faster and could hang witht he 10.5 Novak w/ 13mm rotors, but then it started cogging and suddenly stop for about a second or two, then it would allow me run again for about a a lap or two, then stop again, untill I got hacked. Maybe it was thermal shutdown? Dont know, but if it was, I had a fan on the ESC and fan+heatsink on motor, and it should not have been thermaling. I dont think it was thermal, but rather possible wire/soldering connections to motor or esc?...Dont know.
But geared at 4.70FDR with timing #6 was the fastest its been so far down the straight; not as fast as 10.5 Novak w/ 13mm rotors, but very, very close, so that I was pulling 13.7-8 sec lap times consistently, untill it began stalling on me....the Novak 10.5 w/13mm rotors where just a bit faster down the straight, which I can live with.
Any suggestions/tips from those of you running on outdoor asphalt tracks(rubber tires).?
03-05-2008, 02:04 PM
Have you guys truly found the 13.5 to be faster than the Novak 13.5? On big tracks or small?
I was thinking about trying an SP 10.5 to replace my Novak for our outdoor season, but I guess I'll hold off and see if you guys figure out what's going on with them.
I was thinking about trying an SP 10.5 to replace my Novak for our outdoor season, but I guess I'll hold off and see if you guys figure out what's going on with them.
03-05-2008, 03:27 PM
on it!
03-05-2008, 03:32 PM
Faster. Very close and maybe a touch faster, but the biggest thing is they are consistent motor to motor. I find the "N" motors to be extremely inconsistent. If I buy 5 of them 2 are good, 2 are horrible, and 1 just gets around decent.
03-05-2008, 05:25 PM
For outdoor asphalt, geared 4.23 FDR is was able to keep up with the very fast Novaks 10.5 and 13mm rotors and temps were below 155F
Gearing in the 4.80FDR range using max timing also works, maing this a very fast combo which didnt shutdown/thermal after 10 minutes running on 84F weather and 113F track temp.
03-05-2008, 06:55 PM
AFAIK, Johan was the most prominent driver having a difficult time getting the SP10.5 up to par. Sounds like thats all in the past now though!
I say jump on the bandwagon and get you some rip!
03-05-2008, 07:16 PM
Hi guys
I'm just wondering is that normal to have an 1-2mm servo movement almost ever time I hit the throttle ? or what cause an that type of problem?
TX 3PK futaba RX,
Ko propo 2363 digital servo,
Trackpower 4900 Lipo &
Tekin fx-r Pro esc
Thanx in advanced...
I'm just wondering is that normal to have an 1-2mm servo movement almost ever time I hit the throttle ? or what cause an that type of problem?
TX 3PK futaba RX,
Ko propo 2363 digital servo,
Trackpower 4900 Lipo &
Tekin fx-r Pro esc
Thanx in advanced...
03-05-2008, 07:36 PM
Wheres the movement coming from? Is it play in the ball cups, play on the servo horn to the servo, or is it a culmination of all the steering components resulting in the 1-2mm?
03-05-2008, 08:25 PM
Is the servo itself actually moving? If so, you've got a glitch somewhere.
03-05-2008, 08:49 PM
Does it happen if the car is far away from the radio or only if it's right next to you? What about whether the car is on the ground or in the air?
03-06-2008, 02:16 AM
Tech Initiate
try this:
Get a plastic bag or something of that material and place it on top of the ball cuplet. Then click the link onto the ballcublet and it should just slice a circle out of the plastic, stops movement when you pull the trigger.
Get a plastic bag or something of that material and place it on top of the ball cuplet. Then click the link onto the ballcublet and it should just slice a circle out of the plastic, stops movement when you pull the trigger.
03-06-2008, 05:47 AM
play starts on servo horn than effects all steering when car on air...on track at full throttle car goes to left like it's been tweaked...that's why I check the servo...but at the same time i use lipo without a right to left balancing....rear toe in .5 to 1 degree different from right to left i don' t know how to cure it...
another question about parts lets say we have an pack of front wishbones can we use them on anyside or are they like one for right one for left side..
thanx for your help guys
another question about parts lets say we have an pack of front wishbones can we use them on anyside or are they like one for right one for left side..
thanx for your help guys
03-06-2008, 05:49 AM
The arms will work left to right....if not, then I've been doing stuff way wrong for a while!
play starts on servo horn than effects all steering when car on air...on track at full throttle car goes to left like it's been tweaked...that's why I check the servo...but at the same time i use lipo without a right to left balancing....rear toe in .5 to 1 degree different from right to left i don' t know how to cure it...
another question about parts lets say we have an pack of front wishbones can we use them on anyside or are they like one for right one for left side..
thanx for your help guys
another question about parts lets say we have an pack of front wishbones can we use them on anyside or are they like one for right one for left side..
thanx for your help guys
03-06-2008, 06:35 AM
play starts on servo horn than effects all steering when car on air...on track at full throttle car goes to left like it's been tweaked...that's why I check the servo...but at the same time i use lipo without a right to left balancing....rear toe in .5 to 1 degree different from right to left i don' t know how to cure it...
another question about parts lets say we have an pack of front wishbones can we use them on anyside or are they like one for right one for left side..
thanx for your help guys
another question about parts lets say we have an pack of front wishbones can we use them on anyside or are they like one for right one for left side..
thanx for your help guys
03-06-2008, 07:07 AM
thanx guys