theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

goto
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...pagenumber=104

KINGZJ

iTrader: (4)

James, you just need to coat the gears and let them dry and that it. Do this every other race weekend or so should be fine.

ixlr8nz, Are you running a factory team kit or at least close to it?
I had to add weight to my car to be legal. If you need to add a fan to your car you might be overgeared or something is binding. I have run low turn mods to overgeared stock motors and have really never run into any problems were a fan is in order. One thing to remember is in practice you should only stay out for slightly over the time frame that you race in. the 2 or 3 extra minutes of practice you might be able to get on your battery could be causing your heat problems. I am not trying to argue with you at all it's just that I have seen so many people try other chassis's and they all seem to go back to stock setup, I would hate to see you waste your money. So far their have been very good solutions to just about any probem that can happen with a tc3.

Mike D

theisgroup - Your link doesn't point to any NTC3 steering mod information???

highx - Try:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&pagenumber=13

Art Jensen

iTrader: (3)

I work for Warpspeed racing and wanted to address the batts on the right side question. The car was designed to be perfectly balanced in every way possible. Since we race clockwise rotation in on road, we need to have the biggest block of solid weight on the inside when coming of of the straight away to help the car get through the fastest turn on the track better and faster. The TC3 is the only touring car on the market that has six cells on the left side instead of the right. Even though you think the car should be perfectly balanced with batts on one side and electronics on the other, it does'nt quite work out that way. That is why when you have seven cell slots and you move the batt forward, you end up heavy in the front and light in the rear. Move it back and you are just the opposite. To get the car to tweak properly and have equal ride height all around, The shock collars are all turned down different amounts. This car was designed using scales at four corners and moving the components around until all four corners matched. When I built my car, I set the ride height and put it on the tweak station. It was dead on. It uses six slots positioned very close to what would be the middle of the seven slots on the factory chassis. The slots are moved in towards the driveshaft also. Plus being graphite plate instead of being molded, You dont have to worry about getting a chassis that is tweaked and twisted right out of the package. The molded chassis tweak in the right rear corner from a combination of motor heat and the motor being clamped directly to molded material. This Chassis is made of the highest quality graphite and it is very stiff. As far as the workmanship, It comes with all the edges rounded and the battery slots done by the cnc machine. Just ask anyone who runs a Warpspeed Mission, they will tell you their car balances and handles awesome. That equals consistancy and faster lap times.

James Nguyen

The mission handles so much better with the warpspeed chassis on it.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

if you look 3 post down. the one posted my ntc3nut you will see pics and part numbers.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

also look at the link posted. It is page 104 not 13

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

RCTech gives you the option to display 5, 10, 20, 30 ,or 40 posts per page. From your link I see you have yours set to 30. Others may have 5, 10, etc. so there page numbers may be different.

If you use the post ID it works out for everyone...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&postid=216596

KINGZJ

iTrader: (4)

I guess it depends on what part of the country you are in. Some tracks do run counter clockwise but that is neither here nore their. I have not had any experience with the warspeed chassis so I cannot give a proper opinion on it. Yes the stock chassis on a tc3 will take a tweak but it usually isn't for a long time usually. I have only ever had 1 tweak on me. For the price of many of the aftermarket chassis's you can purchase 3-4 stock graphite chassis but some people just like to be different.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

thanks for the hint. But the link actually has the number of post per page, so should have taken him to the right location. How do you get the post id?

I will use that from now on

ixlr8nz

The reason my motor gets hot is cause one of the tracks I race at(where the nats will be held in one month) has an approx 75 metre straight and the track is huge, as they race gas cars and even 1/5th on.

We race mod for 4 mins and therefore gear our cars extremely highly, often to the point where you are woundering if the speedo will handle it. I have found that the comm lasts 2 races at the very max before a true and same with the brushes.

The fan does not weigh much at all only 16 grams and yes I am using a FT TC3. The weight does not seem to make much difference as I often have the fastest car in pro stock as well.

I have done most of the mods listed in here except the NTC3 steering mod and the adjustable rear toe(a front end on the back)

I must say I've had nothing but success with the locked diff except for the first race of the day when its a bit slippery.

cya
Mike

Deves

iTrader: (2)

Can anybody tell me what is the hot tip for freeing up the drivetrain? I've tried cleaning all the bearings, removing shims, looking for any points of rotating parts rubbing and the most I can get is about 5 seconds of freewheeling......

What kind of bearing lube is best to use on the TC3 bearings?
How do some of you guys make your drivetrains spin so effortlessly?

SupremeHacker

What kind of bearings you using? Rubber sealed has the most friction with teflon and metal the least amount...

Deves

iTrader: (2)

Right now I'm using the stock metal bearings, the ones with the removable seals.
I've tried the sealed bearings but they had way to much friction.

SupremeHacker

Well, you could always leave the grease off the gears in the tranny. The grease slows it up some of course the parts will wear out a little faster but it will free it up some more