"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors
07-13-2009, 07:03 AM
#391
where i can get Jilles' basic set up for carpet rubber??
07-13-2009, 08:19 AM
#392
07-13-2009, 08:27 AM
#393
there seems to be one here
http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=18
would just like to thank jilles for taken the time for this tread it is the first time i have seen it and it will not be the last, Have only got trough the first couple of pages and have picked up so much.
Thanks Wayne
http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=18
would just like to thank jilles for taken the time for this tread it is the first time i have seen it and it will not be the last, Have only got trough the first couple of pages and have picked up so much.
Thanks Wayne
07-13-2009, 09:42 AM
#394
Jilles, my car seems to "stop" in the corner (rubber, carpet) what is the cause ?
Thanks.
Thanks.
07-13-2009, 10:14 AM
#395
Your thumb coming off the stick?
07-13-2009, 11:53 AM
#397
Basically it hesitates mid corner. My guess is that the chassis/set up is too soft, at least that's what it feels like. I thought that maybe the chassis was absorbing the weight transfer and not putting it to the wheels and just killing the corner speed. It's not so bad on a 'green' track but as the grip comes up it gets worse.
My hope was that Jilles may have experierenced this at some time and would have a simple "magic" answer. I know, 'no such thing'.
07-13-2009, 12:50 PM
#398
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
ok, my fault, I didn't give enough info.
Basically it hesitates mid corner. My guess is that the chassis/set up is too soft, at least that's what it feels like. I thought that maybe the chassis was absorbing the weight transfer and not putting it to the wheels and just killing the corner speed. It's not so bad on a 'green' track but as the grip comes up it gets worse.
My hope was that Jilles may have experierenced this at some time and would have a simple "magic" answer. I know, 'no such thing'.
Basically it hesitates mid corner. My guess is that the chassis/set up is too soft, at least that's what it feels like. I thought that maybe the chassis was absorbing the weight transfer and not putting it to the wheels and just killing the corner speed. It's not so bad on a 'green' track but as the grip comes up it gets worse.
My hope was that Jilles may have experierenced this at some time and would have a simple "magic" answer. I know, 'no such thing'.
Try going to a harder spring or lessening camber.
Also, if I'm wrong someone correct me, doesn't putting in a thinner roll bar decrease traction?
07-13-2009, 12:58 PM
#399
Richie
You might try both ways, like extreme rebound and then no-rebound.
Try to test under same conditions, same track, same temp, same tyres etc.
Dimitri,
I use standard servo saver springs, 2 piece gold and black piece.
T4m1y4niac,
I posted a rubber outdoor set-up on Page 3 post #43.
This set-up is very similiar to a basic carpet set-up.
Wayne,
Thanks!
Jag88,
When the traction comes up you might have to stiffer the chassis, go to harder springs.
The only problem when the grip comes up is to get traction roll.
I'm not sure what tyres and inserts you are running but this can also be the case. Last thing you can try to raise the lower arms by adding 0.5 shims and raise the front camber links by 0.5
Jilles
You might try both ways, like extreme rebound and then no-rebound.
Try to test under same conditions, same track, same temp, same tyres etc.
Dimitri,
I use standard servo saver springs, 2 piece gold and black piece.
T4m1y4niac,
I posted a rubber outdoor set-up on Page 3 post #43.
This set-up is very similiar to a basic carpet set-up.
Wayne,
Thanks!
Jag88,
When the traction comes up you might have to stiffer the chassis, go to harder springs.
The only problem when the grip comes up is to get traction roll.
I'm not sure what tyres and inserts you are running but this can also be the case. Last thing you can try to raise the lower arms by adding 0.5 shims and raise the front camber links by 0.5
Jilles
07-13-2009, 03:32 PM
#400
Tech Regular
Hi Jilles, thanks for all your help and advice on this thread!
I've got three (hopefully!) quick questions:
1. Droop - At what point do you measure it? Bottom of wishbone, bottom of hub or bottom of the hinge pin?
2. Wheelbase - Can you explain what (you feel) changing the wheelbase at both front and rear of the car does to it?
3. I remember a while ago people talked about 'flipping' the lower bushing in the front c-hub (thus lowering the front hub by 0.5mm), to help get more steering on used tires. Is this still done? And if so, is it something you'd run from the start (ie on new tires too), or a change made after the first run and so only when you're using 'old' tires?
Many thanks for any advice!
Oli
UK
I've got three (hopefully!) quick questions:
1. Droop - At what point do you measure it? Bottom of wishbone, bottom of hub or bottom of the hinge pin?
2. Wheelbase - Can you explain what (you feel) changing the wheelbase at both front and rear of the car does to it?
3. I remember a while ago people talked about 'flipping' the lower bushing in the front c-hub (thus lowering the front hub by 0.5mm), to help get more steering on used tires. Is this still done? And if so, is it something you'd run from the start (ie on new tires too), or a change made after the first run and so only when you're using 'old' tires?
Many thanks for any advice!
Oli
UK
07-14-2009, 10:53 AM
#401
Tech Adept
Hi Jilles,
How are you ?
What was your speedo setup at the Warm-up ?
And also the ratio ?
Regards,
Manu
How are you ?
What was your speedo setup at the Warm-up ?
And also the ratio ?
Regards,
Manu
07-15-2009, 06:47 AM
#403
Oli,
Thanks!
1. Droop is measured under the bottom of the wishbone.
2. Wheelbase is set normally 2mm front and 3mm rear as most of the set-ups of me are. When you make it more long, you get more stable car, short more steering. For example if you leave the wheelbase the same you only move all the arms 1mm more back, you will have more weight in the front of the car which makes the car more understeer but easier to drive.
3. I have tried this many times but I always come back to the standard bushing position. I can't really tell what it does. I think a higher point on the front camber link gives smoother steering.
Manuel,
Speedo setting was 2,6,0,1
Gearing 7.9 with 3.5 12,5mm rotor
Kschu,
With new tyres I only remove the middle ring on the tyre. Some tyres, like at the worlds with the Sweeps we used some of the green stuff ( you clean the dishes with) and remove the complete top of the rubber to get it starting better. With old tyres I never sand.
Tomorrow I will be heading to the final race of the ETS series in Andernach, so will be back answering questions on monday!
Jilles
Thanks!
1. Droop is measured under the bottom of the wishbone.
2. Wheelbase is set normally 2mm front and 3mm rear as most of the set-ups of me are. When you make it more long, you get more stable car, short more steering. For example if you leave the wheelbase the same you only move all the arms 1mm more back, you will have more weight in the front of the car which makes the car more understeer but easier to drive.
3. I have tried this many times but I always come back to the standard bushing position. I can't really tell what it does. I think a higher point on the front camber link gives smoother steering.
Manuel,
Speedo setting was 2,6,0,1
Gearing 7.9 with 3.5 12,5mm rotor
Kschu,
With new tyres I only remove the middle ring on the tyre. Some tyres, like at the worlds with the Sweeps we used some of the green stuff ( you clean the dishes with) and remove the complete top of the rubber to get it starting better. With old tyres I never sand.
Tomorrow I will be heading to the final race of the ETS series in Andernach, so will be back answering questions on monday!
Jilles
07-15-2009, 04:42 PM
#405
Good luck Jilles!