SpeedyOB-4

Okay, I leaned the engine and shortened the fuel line. The car still does the same thing. How often do you usually replace the two-speed shoes? I've never replaced mine and I've owned the car for a little over a year. If you think it's horsepower that's causing my problem, I've got a heavily modified ROAR legal motor (Murnan modified Novamega 2103 RMS) I can put in it, and/or try some 30%. bbntc3, where do you have your tubing routed? My fuel tubing goes between the engine and pipe. Should it go the long way around over the throttle servo to the other side? Do you have any pics of your car that I could model mine after?
Thanks!

OB42TC3

I don't know what the problem is but any time I have had problems I take the whole 2 speed apart and look for worn parts and re-adjust the shoes to factory spec and start over with the shift point. Seems to do the trick.

SpeedyOB-4

Okay, I did that too. I took the two-speed out and cleaned it. It still did the same thing. So, I went to a smaller range of gears(the stock setup). It still did it. Maybe this is how it's supposed to sound. Does your guys NTC3's shift hard? I've got soo much horsepower that my wheels spin for a while. When I gradually accelerate, the shift is smooth, but when I give it full throttle immediately, the shift is hard. The rpm's shoot up, then it grabs the second gear and takes off. Maybe I'm just not getting enough traction, and therefore spinning the tires when it shifts causing the RPM's to stutter because the car is regaining traction. I don't know, just a thought. Thank you to everyone who's helped out!

bbntc3

Heres some pics

bbntc3

another

alucard13

what kind of swing arm is that bb?

bbntc3

That's the K-Factory steering rack assy. Remove 2 screws and the ball sockets and it all can be removed.

coolrcdad

I recently took my NTC3 totally apart and the chassis (the original one from the kit) is badly tweaked. I am thinking of getting an after-market chassis and want to know what people think about some of them, or which they think is the best quality:

¥K-factory
¥Golden Horizons
¥3Racing
¥RD Logic
¥Zero Gravity
¥GPM

or another I haven't listed. Which is strongest, lightest etc....

bbntc3

BMI CHASSIS!!!! Best on the market at present time!

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

Actually the stock tank is rubber mounted, that's what the o-rings are for. And the fact that it is plastic makes it less prone to vibration than the metal. That's all I can say without seeing it.

Jon

bbntc3

Even though the Ae tank mounts with o'ring it's really not isolated, it only has a single set of 3 screws bolting it to the chassis. leaving it loose sorta helps but its no cure, The fuel vibration problem is more due from the too much material removed in the engine pullstart area.

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

damn perfectionist.

SpeedyOB-4

Has anyone here tried the zero racing chassis? I have one on my NTC3 and it seems to work well, but I'd like to know the next step up. The BMI chassis is a bit too much for my budget...unless it'll fix all my problems. If it'll take the slop out of my steering, the vibration out of my tank, etc, it might be worth considering. However, I don't think a chassis can address all of the problems my NTC3 has. I don't need a crash resistant chasssis, I need the best chassis for racing ROAR events. Should I just stick the stock one back on?

What have you guys done to take the slop out of all the ball cups, pivotballs, and hinge pins. There's not a whole lot of slop in each one, but when they're all combined the performance is reduced.

Johnnytc3

iTrader: (1)

Anybody use the solid front axle in the nitro tc3?

kreidel

iTrader: (2)

I dont think you can beat a stock chassis. Not to say that there arent nicer ones but the stock will get the job done and it doesnt cost any extra. I have owned a few different chassis and finally came to that conclusion.
As fas as the K Factory swing rack....what a over priced peice of equipment. It does not reduce any slop no matter what people claim. Its just hard to admit it once youve spent $40+ for something that doesnt do anything other than making it easy to remove. That has its advantage but it is not worth it and you would think they would do something about the increasing the distance between the drive cup and the swing rack arm. After all my K Factory stuff I have bought I am left wondering was anything I bought good? I dont think so....it was a good and exspensive learning experience but unless you are going for the BLING BLING factor I cannot reccomend K Factory.