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Old 07-23-2003, 04:34 PM   #4891
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Okay, I leaned the engine and shortened the fuel line. The car still does the same thing. How often do you usually replace the two-speed shoes? I've never replaced mine and I've owned the car for a little over a year. If you think it's horsepower that's causing my problem, I've got a heavily modified ROAR legal motor (Murnan modified Novamega 2103 RMS) I can put in it, and/or try some 30%. bbntc3, where do you have your tubing routed? My fuel tubing goes between the engine and pipe. Should it go the long way around over the throttle servo to the other side? Do you have any pics of your car that I could model mine after?
Thanks!
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Old 07-23-2003, 07:12 PM   #4892
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedyOB-4

Any info would be appreciated!
Thanks!
I don't know what the problem is but any time I have had problems I take the whole 2 speed apart and look for worn parts and re-adjust the shoes to factory spec and start over with the shift point. Seems to do the trick.
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:08 PM   #4893
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Okay, I did that too. I took the two-speed out and cleaned it. It still did the same thing. So, I went to a smaller range of gears(the stock setup). It still did it. Maybe this is how it's supposed to sound. Does your guys NTC3's shift hard? I've got soo much horsepower that my wheels spin for a while. When I gradually accelerate, the shift is smooth, but when I give it full throttle immediately, the shift is hard. The rpm's shoot up, then it grabs the second gear and takes off. Maybe I'm just not getting enough traction, and therefore spinning the tires when it shifts causing the RPM's to stutter because the car is regaining traction. I don't know, just a thought. Thank you to everyone who's helped out!
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:23 PM   #4894
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Heres some pics
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:25 PM   #4895
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another
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:33 PM   #4896
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what kind of swing arm is that bb?
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:36 PM   #4897
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That's the K-Factory steering rack assy. Remove 2 screws and the ball sockets and it all can be removed.
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:43 PM   #4898
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I recently took my NTC3 totally apart and the chassis (the original one from the kit) is badly tweaked. I am thinking of getting an after-market chassis and want to know what people think about some of them, or which they think is the best quality:

¥K-factory
¥Golden Horizons
¥3Racing
¥RD Logic
¥Zero Gravity
¥GPM

or another I haven't listed. Which is strongest, lightest etc....
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:47 PM   #4899
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BMI CHASSIS!!!! Best on the market at present time!
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:58 PM   #4900
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ataman
I have try already on my son's RS4 for about 2 gallons-works great, and I stop paying for new tanks and most importanly-before, every time we came to practice-we paid entry fee, but after tank blew up , we got to go home with no practice-was sucks. Actualy, the stock tank doesn't have anything to reduce vibration too, not even flex mounts.
Actually the stock tank is rubber mounted, that's what the o-rings are for. And the fact that it is plastic makes it less prone to vibration than the metal. That's all I can say without seeing it.

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Old 07-23-2003, 09:04 PM   #4901
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Even though the Ae tank mounts with o'ring it's really not isolated, it only has a single set of 3 screws bolting it to the chassis. leaving it loose sorta helps but its no cure, The fuel vibration problem is more due from the too much material removed in the engine pullstart area.
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Old 07-23-2003, 09:19 PM   #4902
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Even though the Ae tank mounts with o'ring it's really not isolated, it only has a single set of 3 screws bolting it to the chassis. leaving it loose sorta helps but its no cure, The fuel vibration problem is more due from the too much material removed in the engine pullstart area.
damn perfectionist.
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Old 07-23-2003, 10:59 PM   #4903
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Has anyone here tried the zero racing chassis? I have one on my NTC3 and it seems to work well, but I'd like to know the next step up. The BMI chassis is a bit too much for my budget...unless it'll fix all my problems. If it'll take the slop out of my steering, the vibration out of my tank, etc, it might be worth considering. However, I don't think a chassis can address all of the problems my NTC3 has. I don't need a crash resistant chasssis, I need the best chassis for racing ROAR events. Should I just stick the stock one back on?

What have you guys done to take the slop out of all the ball cups, pivotballs, and hinge pins. There's not a whole lot of slop in each one, but when they're all combined the performance is reduced.
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Old 07-24-2003, 01:03 AM   #4904
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Anybody use the solid front axle in the nitro tc3?
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Old 07-24-2003, 05:44 AM   #4905
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Default Chassis and K Factory replies

I dont think you can beat a stock chassis. Not to say that there arent nicer ones but the stock will get the job done and it doesnt cost any extra. I have owned a few different chassis and finally came to that conclusion.
As fas as the K Factory swing rack....what a over priced peice of equipment. It does not reduce any slop no matter what people claim. Its just hard to admit it once youve spent $40+ for something that doesnt do anything other than making it easy to remove. That has its advantage but it is not worth it and you would think they would do something about the increasing the distance between the drive cup and the swing rack arm. After all my K Factory stuff I have bought I am left wondering was anything I bought good? I dont think so....it was a good and exspensive learning experience but unless you are going for the BLING BLING factor I cannot reccomend K Factory.
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