DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

Wow, I saw that body on a kid's car at tamiya and it didn't look like it handled well. Seemed a little tall. I'm going to have to try it out now :-)

RandomFellow

iTrader: (3)

So, I got a little carried away, and after selling my TA-05R and my M-03R, I built this TB-03RMREMSXXX from scratch. Now I'm afraid to get it scratched!

Can't wait to start racing it this summer. I'm so excited to be running a shaft car again.

Thanks to all who have put so much input into this thread.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

you could use some BLUE screws.

car looks nice.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Hi

I have just received my TB03R today, I am going to run a 27T stock motor in it to start with. Does anyone have any gearing suggestions? I am new to electric... How do i work out my rollout?

I am runng 5000ma cells if that helps and it is a medium size track!

Thanks in advance
Andrew

djfourmoney

In 1:1 competition the overall height of the car doesn't seem to bother it.

2009 - 1-2 Victory at Road America (one of the fastest tracks in America)

2010 - 2nd and 3rd at Sebring

On track it looks more "upright" than the low slung Ferrari F430, Corvette C6 and Porsche 997 (911 NA), but its still competitive and not on French rubber like the other cars are on.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Hi

I am about half way through building my TB03-R today... Not a big fan of the screws in the kit, would much prefer hex screws.

Can anyone assist me with gearing? I have been racing Gas for the last ten years and have no idea how to work it out!

Thanks in advance!
Andrew

mtaddei

Ciao Bundy,
first of all i'm suggesting you to switch to 04 module, as you have more gearing option, then with fdr its all depending from which motor you'll use and track type, slow/medium/fast.

ciao
Max

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

If I were you I would throw away the phillips head screws and go to the hex 3mm screws. Pre-tap all the holes, trust me you'll be glad you did. There are online companies that sell screw from anodized alum, stainless steel to titanium that are very affordable.
As far as gearing just divide the number of teeth on the spur by the pinion and then multiple that by the variable which is 2.438 for the TB-03.
The FDR is what you need depending on motor, ESC, and track size.
Whatever track you go to, find a fellow racer who is using the same type of equipment you are and ask him for a ballpark FDR. just to get started. Check temp of motor and esc to find the sweet spot of your electronics.
Then I would concentrate on set-up of the car. There are a few good set-ups in this thread that have valuable information you'll need to get started.
Just my 2$

vlast3k

Hi guys,

I spent about a week reading this thread, while i was awaiting my TB-03R to arrive There are some great tip and interesting post there.. it was amazing and i learned quite some stuff. Now my chassis has finally arrived and yesterday i started assembling it. I have a few questions regarding drivetrain looseness and lubrication though and would appreciate if somebody could give some advice. So here they come

1. Re-lubrication of bearings - It seems as if the stock bearings do not rotate very loose, and according to Andrew Kuntze's article at tamiyausa.com, i should remove their stock lube, and apply some light bearing oil. In fact when i try to rotate the differential w/o any other attached gears, just sitting on the two bearings - there is some resistance i can feel

2. Lube for differential gears - according the manual i should put from the black grease, but according other articles - should put AW grease... which is the correct one - and how much should i put

3. Lube for universals - again according to Andrew's article it is not good to put the AW grease on the universals - but should i not put any grease there at all? And does this apply both to the wheel axle and the joint with the differential?

Thanks in advance for any help provided

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Thanks

I need to get it down to about 4.5FDR... any ideas? I worked it out to be standard at 7.09

FREAKAH

1. Spray out the grease in the bearings and re-lube with light bearing oil. Soaking them overnight in a glass bottle full of solvent works too. Just remember to re-lube.

2. I would use the black grease. Do not use the AW grease as it is too tacky and would create too much drag. Heavy-duty spray silicone works good too as well as just plain silicone diff grease.

3. It IS good to use AW grease on the universals. Just a light coat will be good. No grease at all is a no-no. The universals will gall, bind and wear without any lubricant. Sure, lube will attract dust but anything is better than dry metal to metal contact.

vlast3k

Thanks for the useful hint .. i am going to try this

Waltrip55

Robinson Racing 64 pitch 88t spur and 47t pinion. This will put you at 4.56 FDR.

Check out gearchart.com to figure out a combo that will work for you.

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

Wow, I've been running my diff gears dry for a while, another racer who run the same told me he doesn't use anything on his diff gears. I thought that was a good idea so I tried it. Gears seem to last and our track is very dusty and sandy so keeping the dirt off the gears is critical at my track.
Although they do start to pit over time and get a little noisey so that's when I change them. I wouldn't necessarily recommend doing this but I thought it my be something you might try down the road if the gear lube causes problems. Most important is shimming them so it's not too tight and not too loose. I don't know what the best way to check the clearance but maybe someone can chime in and give some advice.
Just my 2$

FREAKAH

Although I think this is OK, I wouldn't try it with anything more powerful than a silvercan. Plastic gears do have natural lubricity but this only helps to a certain point, whereafter the friction and heat becomes greater as the load increases. I had a 1/8 OFNA Pirate wayyy back when which believe it or not had plastic ring gears. The gears wouldn't last dry but would handle the power easily with some Teflon gel grease I got from radio Shack.
Grease would be too heavy in this case though so something like a Heavy-duty spray silicone would be a better choice. It is very light but is very slippery and is designed to lubricate plastic and such. Even a Teflon dry film lubricant would be excellent.
If your track is dusty and are worried about grit getting into your gear box, just smear a very light film of any type of grease between the diff case halves, bearing saddles and anywhere dirt can get in through, before you put them together. This should seal the dust out.


Yes, very important!

On a side note, if you did happen to accidently set the backlash too tight, here is where some sort of lube would be beneficial. Setting backlash should only be done with dry gears however.