288LikesTamiya mini cooper
10-11-2012, 09:50 AM
10-11-2012, 10:09 AM
I tend to ignore you and your terrible advice. If I spent all my time listening to you, my car wouldn't be nearly as blue, shiny and heavy as it is. It would just be another stupid, fast car, that won races. Who wants that?
10-11-2012, 02:19 PM
Yup, M06R: Rear axle weights, relocated lower rear damper mounts and shiny red stuff. That's about it.
Looks like a disco clown barfed up a car.
Looks like a disco clown barfed up a car.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 08-12-2017 at 07:34 PM.
10-11-2012, 07:44 PM
I followed Granpa's instructions for the ball diff, and twice I tightened the nut as the instructions, then I ran it and both times the nut stripped a few races in. 
Maybe I just don't know my own strength.
Maybe I just don't know my own strength.
10-11-2012, 08:12 PM
That could be. You use loctite so you don't have to crank down so hard on the screw. I've only seen that once and that guy had arms bigger than my legs.
10-12-2012, 03:45 AM
Yup, M06R: Rear axle weights, relocated lower rear damper mounts and shiny red stuff. That's about it.
Looks like a disco clown barfed up a car.
Looks like a disco clown barfed up a car.
thanks for the pics.
Definitely not a style improvement for me.
So basically, itŽs a M06 Pro with Alu rear uprights and extra weights but without Aluminum steering linkage. O.K., TRF dampers are already included.
But hey, no Carbon shock tower plates with the really good Aluminum rear shock tower and the new located holes.
And all this good parts are blue...
But what do you mean by relocated lower rear damper mounts?
For me it looks, that they are still in the upright axle. So itŽs interesting what Shock length Taiya uses on the TRF dampers. The original CVA`s have a longer piston rod at the M06 in rear...
BR,
Matthias
10-12-2012, 02:19 PM
The damper mount in question is circled in blue in this image. It appears to move the point further outwards and down.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 08-12-2017 at 07:34 PM.
10-12-2012, 02:19 PM
Tech Elite
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10-12-2012, 02:23 PM
I could have also gone with "Ultra-Fabulous Super-Gay Christmas Explosion-tacular!"
10-12-2012, 02:25 PM
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Sometimes we all forget how much we owe you for the info on your website. I for one learned a lot and much of what I do had it's basis from your site. My first efforts were built exactly as you recommended. There are differences now, but that's primarily due to the different rules we race to and some personal preferences.
If I haven't thanked you before, let me thank you now for getting me started on the right path in Mini racing. People wouldn't have some of these weird problems if they had built their cars following your guidelines. Not that I didn't have an odd problem or two and more than one WTF.
If I haven't thanked you before, let me thank you now for getting me started on the right path in Mini racing. People wouldn't have some of these weird problems if they had built their cars following your guidelines. Not that I didn't have an odd problem or two and more than one WTF.
And one early morning at work for Mr Henry Ford the 'Why don't we do a website?' idea emerged. And on 15 Sep 1996 rc-mini.net was born...
I'm still astounded that a lot of what we put on the site back then is still relevant. I'm equally astounded that so many people read what's there, and then ignore it completely and do the opposite!
I also can't believe I've been racing Minis all this time....
TG
10-12-2012, 02:27 PM
Its easier than you think. Ive stripped or broken 4 of my own and about 5 others i know of. On high bite carpet, the diff had to be so close to a spool if you wanted to be competitive. Either we tightened them down, almost to breaking point, or you 'diffed out' on corner exit and lost ground.
10-12-2012, 02:29 PM
10-13-2012, 02:38 AM
The damper mount in question is circled in blue in this image. It appears to move the point further outwards and down.
now I see what you meant!
Interesting. Hope Tamiya will give an final overall advice how to mount the shocks and in which length for the M06!? As the mounting points on the new Carbon upper tower (4 holes) are even upwards compared to the original plastic mount, and now the lower point moves even more out and down at the same time.
Anyway, something new to discuss in the M06 thread, IŽd say...
BR,
Matthias
10-14-2012, 07:03 AM
Tech Initiate
Thanks Monkey,
now I see what you meant!
Interesting. Hope Tamiya will give an final overall advice how to mount the shocks and in which length for the M06!? As the mounting points on the new Carbon upper tower (4 holes) are even upwards compared to the original plastic mount, and now the lower point moves even more out and down at the same time.
Anyway, something new to discuss in the M06 thread, IŽd say...
BR,
Matthias
now I see what you meant!
Interesting. Hope Tamiya will give an final overall advice how to mount the shocks and in which length for the M06!? As the mounting points on the new Carbon upper tower (4 holes) are even upwards compared to the original plastic mount, and now the lower point moves even more out and down at the same time.
Anyway, something new to discuss in the M06 thread, IŽd say...
BR,
Matthias
10-15-2012, 03:31 PM
Tech Adept
whats up everyone, I just got my M05 together, i run on high traction carpet.
I want to know what tamiya tires would work best/.
and what do you put in the gear diff? I used 100k and the car pushes off power & spins the wheels if i slow down prior to the turn & power out
I know i am losing time & we have a cahs race this weekend & i want to win some $$$
Thanks guys/gals
I want to know what tamiya tires would work best/.
and what do you put in the gear diff? I used 100k and the car pushes off power & spins the wheels if i slow down prior to the turn & power out
I know i am losing time & we have a cahs race this weekend & i want to win some $$$
Thanks guys/gals