MRX-4X
10-23-2007, 06:29 AM
#151
Regarding Lipo's. So why using 1250mAh Lipo and a Brass tray and a regulator when 2/3A cells of 1500mAh are a lot cheaper and better in handling and give more time ?
If it is all about runtime you must have a least 2000mAh to gain a real advantage and still with current 1500/1600mAh 2/3A cells you can race one hour at least which is only done in the WC finals.
And what I said in another topic is we do drive in the rain and one drop of rain in the regulator can cause many problems and a lot of people do not take care to make the regulator rainproof as they do better with the receiver.
There is a 2300mah Li-po that will fit in the tray. Also to answer your question a 1500mah LIPO has 30% more run time than a 1500 MINH. Ask any airplane guy!
10-23-2007, 07:12 AM
#152
Wrap all the wires of the receiver together with cleaning putty to the side of the receiver.
Pull a balloon arround the receiver with the end around the wires in cleaning putty. Pull one extra balloon arround it for extra strength.
Place a tywrap at the and and your receiver is for sure waterproof.
Never blow on the balloons because your air will have fluid.....
For the servo's I suggest to open the housing and fil the edges with some kit as also the rubber tule for the servo wire and put it all together again.
For the car:
- loosen the rear anti rollbar
- if needed lighter dampening and springs.
- use rain tires or aqua's (nice to drift with)
- in full hard rain do use a smaller coolinghead (saw down an old one)
- place the motormounts on a piece of lexan (less cooling from chassisplate)
- use a plug 6 or even a 5
- cut open the filter in the ins-box, water will come into the engine, it is better not to fill the filter with it and the ins-box will hold the dirt outside.
10-23-2007, 07:12 AM
#153
Ehh, no, not really...
And it offcourse has nothing to do with driving skills, you gained in these 12 years?..
Last racing seasons I didn't break anything on my car....
In the time Serpent started to use the very easy breakable plastic that was a hated issue, people had more than 10 left side parts unused..... In the 12 years I drive Mugen (had the very 1st Sting) I had maybe 2 leftside parts unused. It is all about how strong the parts are....
Last racing seasons I didn't break anything on my car....
10-23-2007, 07:17 AM
#154
I finished them on the outside with "liquid" rubber.
FG has good stuff for this.
Also take some vaseline to waterproof the servo arm....
10-23-2007, 10:14 AM
#155
Guys: As a dedicated Mugen guy, I just wanted to share some recent experience I had with both my MRX4R and my buddies MRX4X - we set the two cars up about identically, for use at FBF and used my DX3.0 spektrum system:
Bottom Line: Both cars are WAY more than capable, and driver skill level will be MUCH more important that either car!
A few observations about handling and rotation: YES- the "x" car will tend to feel like it rotates quicker, due to the shortened arms and the changes in the rear end. Where as my MRX4R has a slight on-power PUSH, I find that despite this push, it also feels a little more solid and stable exiting the turn, allowing me to be on-power quicker upon exit. On the other hand, the X certainly rotates around quicker, but I guess I still need to spend time dialing in the rear camber (or SOMETHING) because despite the quicker rotation, it doesn't feel as planted exiting turns, in my opinion as the "R" - so i would get on power a little later, with the X kit.
BODIES: Lately I've been really digging 2 specific bodies: the central body is just the BOMB- except its expensive... and the ProtoForm FRIZBEE is a blast- it's very stable at speed, BUT can cause your car to push a bit- and not dig into corner entries...
Body + Car suggestions: If you're like me and found the X to be quick on the rotate, but harder to get on the gas quicker, I suggest using the FrizBee on the X car - we tried this and it kinda felt like we found a great middle-ground between the two cars: Keeping the central on the R made the car track solidly and also enter corners a bit more authoritatively, while the FrizBee on the X car actually helped make the rear come around more smoothly, allowing me to be on the power quicker than with the central.
Again- Either car is AWESOME. I myself am NOT fully convinced that going to an X kit is the answer yet. I may very much stay with my "R" for next year- I'm just not sure. I would NOT be surprised if you saw guys with LONGER tracks (with faster, longer straights) staying with the R, while guys on shorter tracks MAY opt for the X, since it lets the car's ass rotate around a little quicker, as said above.
Hope this helps- I know I've been going crazy trying to figure out which option would be the best for my tracks - Again, I'm still not sold on the X fully- there are things I still prefer better about the R - BUT, clearly the X's claim to fame thus far is its incredible turn in and mid-turn characteristics.
Bottom Line: Both cars are WAY more than capable, and driver skill level will be MUCH more important that either car!
A few observations about handling and rotation: YES- the "x" car will tend to feel like it rotates quicker, due to the shortened arms and the changes in the rear end. Where as my MRX4R has a slight on-power PUSH, I find that despite this push, it also feels a little more solid and stable exiting the turn, allowing me to be on-power quicker upon exit. On the other hand, the X certainly rotates around quicker, but I guess I still need to spend time dialing in the rear camber (or SOMETHING) because despite the quicker rotation, it doesn't feel as planted exiting turns, in my opinion as the "R" - so i would get on power a little later, with the X kit.
BODIES: Lately I've been really digging 2 specific bodies: the central body is just the BOMB- except its expensive... and the ProtoForm FRIZBEE is a blast- it's very stable at speed, BUT can cause your car to push a bit- and not dig into corner entries...
Body + Car suggestions: If you're like me and found the X to be quick on the rotate, but harder to get on the gas quicker, I suggest using the FrizBee on the X car - we tried this and it kinda felt like we found a great middle-ground between the two cars: Keeping the central on the R made the car track solidly and also enter corners a bit more authoritatively, while the FrizBee on the X car actually helped make the rear come around more smoothly, allowing me to be on the power quicker than with the central.
Again- Either car is AWESOME. I myself am NOT fully convinced that going to an X kit is the answer yet. I may very much stay with my "R" for next year- I'm just not sure. I would NOT be surprised if you saw guys with LONGER tracks (with faster, longer straights) staying with the R, while guys on shorter tracks MAY opt for the X, since it lets the car's ass rotate around a little quicker, as said above.
Hope this helps- I know I've been going crazy trying to figure out which option would be the best for my tracks - Again, I'm still not sold on the X fully- there are things I still prefer better about the R - BUT, clearly the X's claim to fame thus far is its incredible turn in and mid-turn characteristics.
At the Toldeo MWS race last month my car was a little erratic because of the high grip. I decided to make the rear camber link longer(X style mounts still) and it made the car much smother and easier to drive. You can also lower the front oneway lower than the R or the same so that will take some of the edge away. For me since I race on all different types of track parking lot to big sweeping turns I like to have the new options of the X.
Another thing, and of course I am biased is maybe try the Parma R-11 body. From what a lot of drivers tell me is the body is super stable but you don't lose much if any steering.
Hope this helps.
Paul
10-23-2007, 10:15 AM
#156
Tech Initiate
Roelof thanks for the details a big help. M7H a good tip using vaseline. Thank you both.
10-23-2007, 11:25 AM
#157
After this weekends testing of the X, I found the new optional parts very good. I found that I could stick with my same setup as with my R and just adjust the eccentric hubs and get more or less grip where I wanted it. Like Chicky said, more rear grip more corner speed! I would have 2 say the X is has more corner speed than the R. And the chassis is better than the R IMO.
10-23-2007, 12:58 PM
#158
does anyone know the exact release date for this car? i've been shopping around and i think i want to give mugen a try. parts seem to be less expensive compared to serpent and easier to come by than kyosho. also i want some kawahara stuff for this car, so if someone has a good source/dealer where i can buy from that would be great. thanks guys.
10-23-2007, 01:04 PM
#160
10-23-2007, 01:46 PM
#161
10-23-2007, 02:06 PM
#162
10-23-2007, 02:58 PM
#164
10-23-2007, 03:46 PM
#165
does anyone know the exact release date for this car? i've been shopping around and i think i want to give mugen a try. parts seem to be less expensive compared to serpent and easier to come by than kyosho. also i want some kawahara stuff for this car, so if someone has a good source/dealer where i can buy from that would be great. thanks guys.