1LikesKyosho VoneR Thread
07-27-2002, 10:48 AM
#3196
Originally posted by HEYALIGNMENTGUY
You made a good point
But, most of us who have this car think its a good design,
A better idea would have a rear upper control arm that is simular in design like the front.
You made a good point
But, most of us who have this car think its a good design,
A better idea would have a rear upper control arm that is simular in design like the front.
07-27-2002, 06:38 PM
#3197
Originally posted by rbgti
Well I tried, only trying to get insight, which helps everybody.
Of course we are racing them, thats why we need to know how to tune every aspect that is tunable, to get the best performance and have a better time racing.
Just wanted to point out an observation of the design of the car.
Oh well.....thanks anyways.
Peace
Well I tried, only trying to get insight, which helps everybody.
Of course we are racing them, thats why we need to know how to tune every aspect that is tunable, to get the best performance and have a better time racing.
Just wanted to point out an observation of the design of the car.
Oh well.....thanks anyways.
Peace
07-28-2002, 12:39 AM
#3198
Originally posted by AMGRacer
I wish I could help more! I really do not understand most of what you were saying! I am for sure no chassis expert. Just letting you know what works well and runs on the pace at our track.
I wish I could help more! I really do not understand most of what you were saying! I am for sure no chassis expert. Just letting you know what works well and runs on the pace at our track.
07-28-2002, 03:48 AM
#3199
hi manti, read your mention that 12tr won't have the punch if you use the 24t pulley so w/h engine is suited for it. i'm interested in having 24t pulley but i drive a 12 tr with my v1r. also where in hongkong can i buy the 24t pulley set with matching belts. might be in hongkong within next month. thanks
Originally posted by Manticore
OS TR wont have the torque to punch with the 24T pulley on the main shaft even with 15/19 out of corner.
About mid oneway. it is a oneway bearing built in the 24T pulley on the mid shaft. It has less effect on foam tire racing but definitely good for rubber tire as this will give you better off power steering.
OS TR wont have the torque to punch with the 24T pulley on the main shaft even with 15/19 out of corner.
About mid oneway. it is a oneway bearing built in the 24T pulley on the mid shaft. It has less effect on foam tire racing but definitely good for rubber tire as this will give you better off power steering.
07-28-2002, 04:07 PM
#3200
Tech Apprentice
HEHEHE thanks anyways everybody.
I just tried the 24t pully conversion on the rear. Doesn't work very well with the 27t front. Have to run it with the 25t, or else the belt is too tight and slows down the drivetrain.
Good top end speed, but hella slow bottom em. Gotta get the 15t/19t pinions.
I just tried the 24t pully conversion on the rear. Doesn't work very well with the 27t front. Have to run it with the 25t, or else the belt is too tight and slows down the drivetrain.
Good top end speed, but hella slow bottom em. Gotta get the 15t/19t pinions.
07-29-2002, 11:03 PM
#3201
Re: Re: Gearing
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
yeah 18/22 gears provide much more top end.
if it is a bit boat like arounded s's just put in thicker shock oil. i had this exact problem, i put 80wt integy oil front 60 rear and it solved the problem.
you can changed springs if you like but it realy isn't neccessary. i noticed that the gold springs at the front gave a bit of exit understeer, but it was a little more responsive when entering. i've recently went to gold front springs at the rear (the front springs are a little smaller) and put the castor all the way back. it feels and hooks up really well on my street (standard fine asphalt) but haven't yet tryed this set up on my local track. but like i said, changing the springs isn't really neccessary i only did this out of curiosity.
i have gone to a gold front sway bar, but on a small track to medium track i don't think it is needed.
yeah 18/22 gears provide much more top end.
if it is a bit boat like arounded s's just put in thicker shock oil. i had this exact problem, i put 80wt integy oil front 60 rear and it solved the problem.
you can changed springs if you like but it realy isn't neccessary. i noticed that the gold springs at the front gave a bit of exit understeer, but it was a little more responsive when entering. i've recently went to gold front springs at the rear (the front springs are a little smaller) and put the castor all the way back. it feels and hooks up really well on my street (standard fine asphalt) but haven't yet tryed this set up on my local track. but like i said, changing the springs isn't really neccessary i only did this out of curiosity.
i have gone to a gold front sway bar, but on a small track to medium track i don't think it is needed.
i c..., perhaps the track that i played was too slippery and oily (a tennis court converted into a medium track). I running on foams but those guys run on rubber are fast and smooth...
BTW, i'm running the V-1-R wide sponge tyre with front & rear swaybars version. How about u? RR? I think most of the ppl here on the forum run RR, rite?
Another thing that puzzles me is the rear shocks. I built the shocks as in the manual, which says use the MEDIUM 4.8mm ball end. And 'click' the bottom end of the shock into the stud ball on the rear lower arm. Now, my question is which hole (Upper/Lower) should i use for the stud ball?
Currently, i am using the Lower hole the stud ball which i think is wrong as i noticed the manual is fitted on the Upper hole.
Could you confirm this?
Because when i tried on the Upper hole, the shocks were compressed and become STIFF and HARD and the chassis was raised to 10-11mm...and i couldnt bring the ride height down...what's wrong here?
OR should i use the SMALL 4.8mm Ball End on the bottom end of the shocks and fix the stud ball on the Upper hole of the rear lower arm?
I have ordered a Front Adjustable Anti Roll Bar. How to set this anti roll bars? If i want more rear grip, set to hard?
Kindly advise...
THanks a million...
Last edited by RClover; 07-29-2002 at 11:08 PM.
07-30-2002, 05:45 AM
#3202
Tech Adept
everbody my question is what is the difference when you use the top or bottem holes on the rear upright. Thanks tone
07-30-2002, 08:51 AM
#3203
Re: Re: Re: Gearing
Originally posted by RClover
Currently, i am using the Lower hole the stud ball which i think is wrong as i noticed the manual is fitted on the Upper hole.
Could you confirm this?
Because when i tried on the Upper hole, the shocks were compressed and become STIFF and HARD and the chassis was raised to 10-11mm...and i couldnt bring the ride height down...what's wrong here?
Currently, i am using the Lower hole the stud ball which i think is wrong as i noticed the manual is fitted on the Upper hole.
Could you confirm this?
Because when i tried on the Upper hole, the shocks were compressed and become STIFF and HARD and the chassis was raised to 10-11mm...and i couldnt bring the ride height down...what's wrong here?
If the spring is too long that would happen. Also check if you used the right end caps. The front end caps are thicker than the rear end caps.
Data
07-30-2002, 10:16 AM
#3204
Re: Re: Re: Re: Gearing
Originally posted by Data
Don't use the lower hole. Kyosho made the lower H-arm that way so it can be used for left and right, i guess. You shouldn't be able to use the lower hole becasue the shock body would be rubbing against the H-arm. Wonder how you did it. Did you used the end caps for the front shocks ?
If the spring is too long that would happen. Also check if you used the right end caps. The front end caps are thicker than the rear end caps.
Data
Don't use the lower hole. Kyosho made the lower H-arm that way so it can be used for left and right, i guess. You shouldn't be able to use the lower hole becasue the shock body would be rubbing against the H-arm. Wonder how you did it. Did you used the end caps for the front shocks ?
If the spring is too long that would happen. Also check if you used the right end caps. The front end caps are thicker than the rear end caps.
Data
The shock bodies are not rubbing against the H-Arm because i use the MEDIUM 4.8mm Ball end (is this what you called the 'end cap' ?) Yes, if i use the SMALL 4.8mm Ball end with the Lower hole, that will rub against the H-ARM.
However, the manual for this Kit (GRP Wide Sponge & swaybars version) indicates that i should use the MEDIUM 4.8mm ball end.
07-30-2002, 03:36 PM
#3205
RCLover you are correct. The GRP version uses longer ballcups and the lower hole for some reason. I still do not know why. All other versions of the car use the upper hole. The rear shock will stand slightly more upright using the lower hole, thats the only difference I can see.
07-30-2002, 06:04 PM
#3206
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Gearing
Originally posted by RClover
The shock bodies are not rubbing against the H-Arm because i use the MEDIUM 4.8mm Ball end (is this what you called the 'end cap' ?) Yes, if i use the SMALL 4.8mm Ball end with the Lower hole, that will rub against the H-ARM.
However, the manual for this Kit (GRP Wide Sponge & swaybars version) indicates that i should use the MEDIUM 4.8mm ball end.
The shock bodies are not rubbing against the H-Arm because i use the MEDIUM 4.8mm Ball end (is this what you called the 'end cap' ?) Yes, if i use the SMALL 4.8mm Ball end with the Lower hole, that will rub against the H-ARM.
However, the manual for this Kit (GRP Wide Sponge & swaybars version) indicates that i should use the MEDIUM 4.8mm ball end.
07-30-2002, 06:34 PM
#3207
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Gearing
Originally posted by Manticore
If you are running an V1R then you should use the rear upper hole on the H-arm. There are two types of spring retainer. check if you are using the same thickness spring retainer as the front. with your V1R kit, you should have extra 2 thinner or shorter spring retainer and you should be able to use short ball cap, upper hole and long rear springs.
If you are running an V1R then you should use the rear upper hole on the H-arm. There are two types of spring retainer. check if you are using the same thickness spring retainer as the front. with your V1R kit, you should have extra 2 thinner or shorter spring retainer and you should be able to use short ball cap, upper hole and long rear springs.
I have 2 pairs of springs (orange & green) bought it years back when i was running Super10. These springs are little longer than the current stock springs. I wonder if they can be used with my stock shocks...?
Kindly advise...
07-30-2002, 07:09 PM
#3208
Tech Apprentice
hi...
i where can get the 24 pulley? Who make them..i have no problem with the belt...i already bought a yokomo rear belt and bando side belt..now i just need the 24 pulley..Somene said v1rr can use mtx 24 pulleys
any website can i order the 24 pulleys?
thanks..
i where can get the 24 pulley? Who make them..i have no problem with the belt...i already bought a yokomo rear belt and bando side belt..now i just need the 24 pulley..Somene said v1rr can use mtx 24 pulleys
any website can i order the 24 pulleys? thanks..
07-30-2002, 07:26 PM
#3209
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Gearing
Originally posted by RClover
Spring retainer - do u mean the cap fitted right above the ballcap supporting the springs?
I have 2 pairs of springs (orange & green) bought it years back when i was running Super10. These springs are little longer than the current stock springs. I wonder if they can be used with my stock shocks...?
Kindly advise...
Spring retainer - do u mean the cap fitted right above the ballcap supporting the springs?
I have 2 pairs of springs (orange & green) bought it years back when i was running Super10. These springs are little longer than the current stock springs. I wonder if they can be used with my stock shocks...?
Kindly advise...
dunno much about super 10 springs.
07-30-2002, 08:11 PM
#3210
Tech Master
Hey Manticore, any word on those Ts 