v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

Hi All,

I am going to switch cars in the next few weeks and need to ask a (probably) commonly asked question, im deciding between the CGM or the SSG and dont know which way to go..

I will be primarily racing stock on Asphalt with rubber, on carpet with rubber and with foam if I decide to run the foam class (mod).

For those particular surfaces which would the most desirable car be? Im leaning the way of the SSG, the upcoming update kit for it should be a good thing, and I prefer a CF based plate car. Not to mention the awesome looking Rayspeed chassis kits available too

Is the CGM much better in any particular area than the SSG? Does either one perform better on any particular surface?

I'll no doubt pick up the usual spares, front and rear arms etc, is there anything else that is needed or frequently broken?

What are the lengths of the springs it uses? I have a full kit of Xray springs, i'd like to use those if possible to save purchasing the full Yokomo set, or is it worth getting all the Yokomo springs?

I'd appreciate any other tips, but i'll also have a look back through the last hundred pages of so of this thread once I'm home from work

Cheers

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

I prefer the CGM over the SSG car for the fact that it doesn't take a tweek in a wreck, it's stiffer than the SSG car, and all the plastic parts are the graphite versions. I think with the introduction soon of the upgrade kits for the regular SSG and Black special kits it will be a much better car. Most of the tweek problems with those cars IMO come from the way the upper deck is mounted, with the aluminum bulkheads of the conversion kits that should be solved.
It's really up to you if you want to get an SSG and a worlds conversion kit or just get a CGM.

v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

Thanks Matt.

Might just go the CGM to begin with then, I still clout a barrier occasionally.

Any tips on extras to get hold of?

rovic

cgm is a more user friendly car, and the one i prefer... but;

graphite car is nimble and quick, but can be tricky to setup. flex and tweek play factors in handling...

tub (cgm) car is very durable/stiff and has high machanical grip. weight maybe an issue, but its all mental.

ill let someone else answer your spring questions; i have never used xray springs.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

get the yokomo wide front bumper kit or make one out of kydex yourself. It will save you alot on broken front end pieces. That's the only thing I recommend getting, everything else is "nice to have" but not necessary. Those items would include aluminum input shafts, Ti screw kit, graphite main shaft, etc.

v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

Thanks once again Matt & Rovic, thats pretty much what I had been told by the locals here.

Some people are telling me im crazy for moving from an Xray to a Yokomo, the Xray is a great car, but our national Yokomo importer/distributor is in my city and they have a very close bunch of loyal racers who all run Yokomo's and help each other emmensely; to me being part of that whole team atmosphere is what i'm after Im the only one who races an Xray here and I feel so isolated sometimes Not to mention the same importer/distributor holds race meetings here every fortnight; I should support thier product

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

The new BD looks killer...wish i had enough money to run both!

Zac R

iTrader: (39)

Matt Howard that link does not work

v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

Works ok for me.

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

It works for me anyway, here's the foam carpet setup I was telling you about

http://www.ultratechcleaning.com/yok...carpetnats.pdf

and this setup should be a good starting point for rubber carpet racing

http://www.ultratechcleaning.com/yok...0setup2004.jpg

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Get a stock of front bones if you stick to the stock ones, some diff rings (the stock ones last 15 runs, on my car at least), a front one-way (mandatory on carpet/rubbers), a set of springs, some ballcups (I personnally think the stock ones are junk), a second servo-saver set (helps minimize slop), an additional rear shock tower to run on the front, and DEFINITELY the wide front bumper Use countersunk screws to mount the top deck (even without countersinking it).

cheers,
Paul

lee82gx

iTrader: (1)

how is that possible for the CGM?

chaini

Hmmm, don't you need to loosen the screws anymore after a crash to get the tweak out, with that change?

rovic

thats great, to have such great support.

for me; i think im the only one running a yok in arizona, maybe the entire southwest...

rovic

tweak could still occur even if the screws are countersunk.
- if the chassie moves under the countersink screw... then it would be tweaked, because the chassie could not return to the original spot. countersinks are not effective deturent to prevent tweak.

pinning the top plate (as the new losi design) would be very close to preventing tweak. but there would need to be pins everywhere screws are...