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Old 05-12-2008, 10:02 PM
  #1381  
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The rc8 has something simular.
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Old 05-15-2008, 12:34 AM
  #1382  
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You can use "Team Losi Adjustable Front Hinge Pin Brace W/Inserts: 8B/8T - LOSA1754" for adjusting Front Roll Center.

With stock kick-up you can get 5 positions for Front Roll Center:

1) 0-insert in front, 0-insert in rear (stock)
2) 0.5-insert front top, 0.5-insert rear top
3) 1-insert front top, 1-insert rear top
4) 0.5-insert front bottom, 0.5-insert rear bottom
5) 1-insert front bottom, 1-insert rear bottom

For other kick-up values, for example stock+1°, you can get 3 positions

1) 0.5-insert front top, 0.5-insert rear bottom
2) 1-insert front top, 0-insert in rear
3) 0-insert in front, 1-insert rear bottom

and so on...
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Old 05-15-2008, 03:07 AM
  #1383  
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The inserts seem durable also. On my buggy I figured the inserts would need replaced after a weekend of racing, but that's not the case. So +1 in my book for the adjustable hinge pin plates.
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Old 05-15-2008, 06:14 AM
  #1384  
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Originally Posted by air8
The inserts seem durable also. On my buggy I figured the inserts would need replaced after a weekend of racing, but that's not the case. So +1 in my book for the adjustable hinge pin plates.



X2....i rebuilt all mine thinkin the same thing....but Nope....inserts look like brand new.. Two thumbs up
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Old 05-15-2008, 08:03 PM
  #1385  
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Originally Posted by vlad_vy
You can use "Team Losi Adjustable Front Hinge Pin Brace W/Inserts: 8B/8T - LOSA1754" for adjusting Front Roll Center.

With stock kick-up you can get 5 positions for Front Roll Center:

1) 0-insert in front, 0-insert in rear (stock)
2) 0.5-insert front top, 0.5-insert rear top
3) 1-insert front top, 1-insert rear top
4) 0.5-insert front bottom, 0.5-insert rear bottom
5) 1-insert front bottom, 1-insert rear bottom

For other kick-up values, for example stock+1°, you can get 3 positions

1) 0.5-insert front top, 0.5-insert rear bottom
2) 1-insert front top, 0-insert in rear
3) 0-insert in front, 1-insert rear bottom

and so on...
I just bought this last week and am about to install it tomorrow night. What does kick up actually do for you. Any advice on where to run it? I am set up with the adjustable rear at 3x3, 2.3mm rear sway. The car had great handling last time out, so I am considering the stock setting, but would like to know what it does for you. To be honest the only reason I purchased it is that my sons plastic hinge pin cover wore right through and it caused him to drop out of the A main last week. I figured I should get this before the same thing happened to me.
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Old 05-16-2008, 02:11 AM
  #1386  
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That table related to changing height of Front Roll Center.

Stock Kick-up and Caster are quite fine, you don't need to change that. Run 0° inserts in both front and rear front braces.

Total Kick Up 14° = Chassis Kick Up 14° + Suspension Mount Kick Up 0°

Total Caster Angle 20° = Caster Angle 6° + Chassis Kick Up 14° + Suspension Mount Kick Up 0°

KICK-UP (FRONT)

Front kick-up is the angle of the front lower suspension arm when viewed from the side of the car. With kick-up the front of the arm is higher than the rear of the arm. Kick-up may be built into the design of the chassis plate (bend upwards at the front) or it may be accomplished by altering the angle of the front lower inner pivot pins.

Front kick-up is used to adjust the amount of weight transfer to the front when the car is off-throttle or under braking.

EFFECTS OF FRONT KICK-UP ADJUSTMENT

More kick-up
* More weight transfer to the front of the chassis off-throttle or under braking
* Chassis compresses or drops more off-throttle or under braking
* Handling is improved on bumpy tracks
* Decreased steering response

Less kick-up
* Less weight transfer to the front of the chassis off-throttle or under braking
* Chassis compresses or drops less off-throttle or under braking
* Handling is improved on smooth tracks
* Increased steering response


FRONT ROLL CENTER

Typically on off-road cars front roll center is adjusted using the front upper camber link inner mounting position on the front shock tower. Those same holes on the front shock tower may also be used to adjust camber rise.

EFFECTS OF FRONT ROLL CENTER ADJUSTMENT

Lower roll center
* Increases steering into corner
* Car is less responsive

Higher roll center
* Decreases steering into corner
* Car is more responsive
* Use in high-grip conditions
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Old 05-16-2008, 09:48 AM
  #1387  
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Great post, thanks Vlad!
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:35 PM
  #1388  
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Allright, what does it take to get rid of the rear diff problems in the truggy, or can you? I was at the RC Pro State race, and the truck was really fast, but I could not seem to keep a rear diff in it. Track blue grooved, so there was tons of traction. In 3 heats, Main (Bumped), 2nd Main = 5 times on the track the truck came off with a rear diff problem 5 times. In my 1st main that I won and bumped, luckily it happened on the last lap of the race and I had lapped 2nd place. Not sure what to do, through the course of the 3 qualifiers I had already replaced the case, inserts, pinion, bearings, rear center cva....I like the truck, but that was ridiculous...
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:53 PM
  #1389  
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Originally Posted by vlad_vy
That table related to changing height of Front Roll Center.

Stock Kick-up and Caster are quite fine, you don't need to change that. Run 0° inserts in both front and rear front braces.

Total Kick Up 14° = Chassis Kick Up 14° + Suspension Mount Kick Up 0°

Total Caster Angle 20° = Caster Angle 6° + Chassis Kick Up 14° + Suspension Mount Kick Up 0°

KICK-UP (FRONT)

Front kick-up is the angle of the front lower suspension arm when viewed from the side of the car. With kick-up the front of the arm is higher than the rear of the arm. Kick-up may be built into the design of the chassis plate (bend upwards at the front) or it may be accomplished by altering the angle of the front lower inner pivot pins.

Front kick-up is used to adjust the amount of weight transfer to the front when the car is off-throttle or under braking.

EFFECTS OF FRONT KICK-UP ADJUSTMENT

More kick-up
* More weight transfer to the front of the chassis off-throttle or under braking
* Chassis compresses or drops more off-throttle or under braking
* Handling is improved on bumpy tracks
* Decreased steering response

Less kick-up
* Less weight transfer to the front of the chassis off-throttle or under braking
* Chassis compresses or drops less off-throttle or under braking
* Handling is improved on smooth tracks
* Increased steering response


FRONT ROLL CENTER

Typically on off-road cars front roll center is adjusted using the front upper camber link inner mounting position on the front shock tower. Those same holes on the front shock tower may also be used to adjust camber rise.

EFFECTS OF FRONT ROLL CENTER ADJUSTMENT

Lower roll center
* Increases steering into corner
* Car is less responsive

Higher roll center
* Decreases steering into corner
* Car is more responsive
* Use in high-grip conditions
Vlad- just one question for you. It sems as thought you are contradicting youself in the effects of front roll center adjustments. If the car steers more into a turn the car more responsive and same goes for the opposite.
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Old 05-18-2008, 10:10 PM
  #1390  
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jsmax---Sorry to hear about the problems, but congrats on placing well. Mabybe your truck needs more attention with diff shimming. Like making sure it's tight to start with and then seat in. And using the HD diffs. I sure haven't had the troubles you seem to be having. I haven't been doing anything special with the diffs in my Losi's. I'm putting in the HD diffs this week hoping to never have a problem in the future. But I havent' had super powerful engines in my T yet. So my rear diff hasn't really been "punished," so to speak. LOL. I hope you get it solved though.
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Old 05-19-2008, 02:26 AM
  #1391  
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Originally Posted by micrors4guy
Vlad- just one question for you. It sems as thought you are contradicting youself in the effects of front roll center adjustments. If the car steers more into a turn the car more responsive and same goes for the opposite.
I think that it's right. Lower roll center = More Chassis Roll = More time to transient = Decreases car’s responsiveness.

Car turns more, but it's take more time to get response from turning the steering wheel.

Same thing take place with overly thick shock oil. Slowed response.
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Old 05-19-2008, 05:17 AM
  #1392  
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I have not been running any shims in mine as the local guys told you did not have to with the Losi. I am not running a to powerful motor either, the Go 7 port runs out well but is very smooth on bottom. All I can say is that I have not had these problems in the past, but this is also the first time I ran on a track that blue grooved and had TONS of traction, maybe just to much for the truck. Maybe it needs the adjustable rear hinge pin plates so that I can go down to 2.5* toe when the traction is that high......
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:26 AM
  #1393  
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Hi guys!i have put the 8's shocks in my mbx5r and i need the 2 plastic little pieces that are inquding with the rear 8t arms.do anyone have an of these that don't need them?if not i most buy and the arms together and i dodntt need them..
Any help guys please?
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Old 05-20-2008, 11:54 AM
  #1394  
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I've been using Mugen oil for the last year for the diff oil. Anyone using something different? I've wanted to try the Losi oil, just for comparison, but I don't see the Losi oil sold in the large bottles like Mugen.
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Old 05-20-2008, 12:54 PM
  #1395  
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Originally Posted by air8
I've been using Mugen oil for the last year for the diff oil. Anyone using something different? I've wanted to try the Losi oil, just for comparison, but I don't see the Losi oil sold in the large bottles like Mugen.


i run OFNA diff oils....priced right and u get a decent amount.
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