John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Associated Racer- Well If some guy was beating me by 1 second consistently and he was using a spool, then I might put up with the aggravation of a spool and try it. Now if I was 6 seconds back then I would just work on improving my driving with the one-way, until I got closer. I drove a 1-way for 3-4 months with only one outdrive replacement and one bone.

AssociatedRacer

I've only raced for like 4 times. I am running about 2secs behind pretty fast people, but again thats a BIG diff for the size of the track(12 secs to 14secs). My driving is just starting to get better, and I just won my first race. Im starting to get a feel of the car, and it seemed like it didnt have enough steering. I just found out though everyone runs there pack up front, and I was running mine back. Ill try that out and see if it helps. Right now im running 2 regular diffs.

Mike D

What I said on the other thread (TC3 Forum) was:

"Tweak is a diagonal problem in the chassis. For example, if your left rear wheel is lighter then your right rear wheel, then right front wheel will also be lighter then your left front wheel. You correct tweak by adjusting the shock collars diagonally. In this example, you would tighten the left rear and right front shock collars equally. This will fix tweak without jacking the ride height from left to right."

Don't set the digonal shocks to the same preload... First adjust your shocks so your chassis is level (or close). Then to adjust tweak, increase the tension on the diagonal springs the same amount. For example, if you needed to add 1 turn to one shock to level the tweak - instead add a 1/2 turn to the diagonal shocks to level the tweak. This will keep your chassis level after tweak is adjusted.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Associated Racer. After you move your batt forward, then, to eliminate a push, move top of front shocks in (less stiff), Move top of rear shocks out (stiffer). Keep going till the handling is right. Change springs if neccesary. Then tinker with shock oil. Lighter shock oil in the front. Then reduce kickup, but keep the caster the same or increase caster sligtly. Total caster= caster from the caster blocks + caster from kickup. This all assumes that the tires are well glued on and each suspension arm moves freely when you disconnect the lower shock mounts. It is hard to tune a car that is slightly broken.

After you get good with the car then add a one-way. This will improve corner entry steering traction by eliminating braking to the front wheels and will improve corner exit acceleration by locking in the front wheels. The inside front will no longer reduce drive to the outside front when it unloads in a corner.

mab_man20

iTrader: (6)

Thanks john and Mike.
Again you have saved me.

omalley

John- just ordered the book. looking forward to getting it. Looking for some serious guide for tunning my TC3

racingdc9

John, Open mod on thursday ok. I had to put the front spool on for open mod, felt a little more stable.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

RacingDC9-Open mod it is.

Spool Damage

The IRS spool slots are easily damaged by the standard dogbones. I suggest only using it with the IRS or Niftech dogbones that have pin pillows. I had deep u shaped damage to the slots after only one race night. We got the Yokomo one-ways in now so I will be trying this in the future.

omalley-Thanks.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

We ran Open Mod tonight. Both Christian and Myself added more rear toe to keep the back end from kicking out when accelerating out of the corners. Worked Well at 3 degrees per side. No other change was neccesary on my car. Tires were another story. Temp was 68 F. The hottest tire after a practice run was 94 F. This required a CS 32 tire. Sorex 32 were a little soft. Even CS 32's showed some rubber marbles forming from the heat of acceleration. I geared my car for maximum acceleration which looked real good, but was slow in the corners due to overworking the tires. Geared up a tooth for the 3rd and 4th heat and got better race times.

Rc-Iceman

John: Did you say Yokomo one-way for TC3? Do you got one at last??

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Yes its the Yokomo One-way. The part number I received is SP-3938-6. The part number I ordered was the newer part, I believe, 3638-6. Both are Heavy duty 6 mm one-way's specifically for the TC3. Here is my description.

The outdrive shafts are 6-mm instead of the Associated one-ways 4 mm. This does two things. A larger more durable oneway bearing can be used instead of the double small 4-mm oneway bearings on the Associated part. Fracturing of the steel oudrive should be reduced due to the larger shaft size helping to support the drive cups better. The 6 mm shaft is hollow to reduce weight. The large oudrive bearings are a special larger inner size and actually seat on the outer race of the one-way bearing. The oneway comes with these special bearings. We ran open mod last night and I had no trouble with the one-way. Gear mesh was pefect with no shims on the one-way. Good thing as the Tc3 shims would not fit anyway.

Now to get part numbers for replacement outdrives. The inserted parts diagram was in Japanese.

Personally, I had no trouble with the Associated one-way. Only broke one outdrive since this thread was started a long time ago. The associated one-way was discontinued along with the replacement oudrives. What a crime.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

Here is a pic of another chassis mod that I have made. I have noticed a bit more wear on the motor side of the pinion. This is visible as a little extra shine on the photo on a few of the teeth closer to the motor side. Looking at the motor from the bottom I had noticed the motor had sagged down a bit. Don't know if this happens to other guys chassis. Anyway I wedged the motor up some and installed a plastic triangle cut from an old broken chassis and superglued it like in the photo. You can fill and smooth the joints by cutting graphite/plastic powder using a hacksaw and a piece of old frame or component. Use the powder to fill the joint then superglue it. It makes a strong filler material that can be sanded and filed smooth when done or left as is. You can reinforce a repaired frame like this on the backside of the crack. The repair looks a little better to the eye than in the magnified photo.

dw

Those gears still look out of alignment to me.

John Stranahan

iTrader: (27)

dw-The photo is taken through a large magnifying lens with a circular light. The lens is distorting the gear alignment. It is OK now. I have also put the worn gear on just for the photo.

mistercrash

iTrader: (5)

Good day eh!

I have been reading the many posts in this thread for some time now and I picked up some very useful information so let me start by saying... Thank you

I fabricated a small gizzmo out of G10 fiberglass which I plan to use to stiffen the area that tends to "tweak" when I tighten the motor clamp on my TC3. Now before I epoxy this gizzmo in place, I wanted your opinion on this modification. I don't think it would make this little tweak problem completely disappear but I think it would help. So please take a look at the two pictures and share your opinions with me.

Thanks again for this great thread.

Ray

gizzmo

gizzmo in place