jakster

iTrader: (2)

how are you zapping a can thats factory sealed? are you zapping the motor while its turning on a battery or take it apart and zap can only, but its kind of hard to put back together with out it looking like it was tampered with any help here??
i thought about this, i have my own zapper, has anyone tryed with motor turning low rpm?? so you dont magnitize the arm

lignum vitae

iTrader: (7)

the arm doesnt magnetize therefore zap can complete.

lignum vitae

iTrader: (7)

have tried but far to easy to stuff up.anyway this can be construded as tampering.

Vance

Howzit All,

I would like your comments... I have a theory that a shaft chassis (i.e. Pro4 / TC4) is more appropriate for silver-can racing, as it is more capable of setting a smoother+efficient running drive-train. Also, what is better for the diff's ... diff/diff or one-way/diff or spool/diff?

Thanks guys!

Vance.

shift

yes thats correct shafts are better for silver can racing. The diff can depend on what you find is the best for what track you race at. for one track a person i know uses a spool then for another track he uses a one-way this is all using a silver can

lignum vitae

iTrader: (7)

have noticed some top drivers run spool direct centre on low traction, oneway oneway centre on high traction.

RocketRacer

i currently run a Tamiya TB Evo IV and will be using that for 540 racing. the internal gear ratio is 2.294. the Spur is a 96T. the tyres are tamiya type B3 +/- 63mm. how would you guys recommend i gear this car?

Vance

RR,

Goto www.gearchart.com. I recommend 49-51mm for a long high speed track and 44-48mm for a short twisty track. Have you tried the chamoise glove, soak in water, nitro freezed... yet?

Cheers,
Vance.

RocketRacer

No Vance i haven't, i just started running 540 so i am a bit new to the class. i have been running super stock since last year. i will give it a try.

Teddygoat

iTrader: (4)

Hi Guys,
Just another silver can tip, after an event when your comm looks black and buggered, run it in water again but add a little bit of Harpic (toilet cleaner), you'll have a very shinny com, and that can only help.

Cheers
Goat

hav_lova

iTrader: (4)

I find that my 540 motors perform best if i simply clean them out with motorspray after each race and use a long nozzle tube thing off a WD40 bottle to get into the motor and in the comm slots. then if the comm gets really bad i will run the motor in water at 2v

Teddygoat

iTrader: (4)

Sure that works cool, i do the same, but a few squirts of toilet cleaner just helps the comm cleaner that much better

hav_lova

iTrader: (4)

thanks for the tip. I have experimented with a fair few liquids trying out on my comm by far the best was brasso but the problem was that the brasso would burn under high voltage racing conditions and stain the comm black rendering my 540's useless after a major race event. I highly suggest AGAINST using brasso, shellite works ok, but its a little too dangerous for my liking and i now refuse to use it.

What is the toilet cleaner - water ratio you use, i have a dyno so i can give you some dyno numbers when i get around to trying it out.

Teddygoat

iTrader: (4)

I'm from South Africa and the brand i use is called "harpic", i use a ratio of 1:10 and usauly just use a 500mm glass of water. according to the the harpic adds it a really strong stain remover so a concentration thats to high might eat at the comm.

hav_lova

iTrader: (4)

Ok sounds good. I know of the brand i don't think my mum has any though