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Old 01-18-2010, 01:57 PM
  #1441  
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The 45/20 is almost never used unless you are running an engine with a lot of torque and low rpm (as with a long manifold).

Most people here are running the 16 pinion or even 15 combined with 49 or 50

In second gear 20 with 46 or 47 is most used, I run 19 with 45 or 46.

On most tracks you need to accelerate from corner to corner, if you do setup the car for that then a few miles lower speed on the straight is no issue.
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:46 AM
  #1442  
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Most importantly get your clutch set up correctly,often you can make the mistake of gearing too low to compensate for clutch. Also your tyre size plays a big role. I love running 73mm on rear, depending on motor 17/50 works well. High RPM motors harder clutches, lower RPM softer clutches.
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Old 01-21-2010, 01:49 PM
  #1443  
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<---------- Singing the MRX5 blues song....
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:38 PM
  #1444  
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Hey guys one last question and ill stop harrasing so much in this thread!!!

Could someone hook me up with a link to where i can find aluminum pullies for the MRX4X?? id like to hook mine up with nicer option parts but i can't even find a good online parts source for this car!

Amain has a few thing but no aluminum pullies!
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:41 PM
  #1445  
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Originally Posted by MiamizFinest
Hey guys one last question and ill stop harrasing so much in this thread!!!

Could someone hook me up with a link to where i can find aluminum pullies for the MRX4X?? id like to hook mine up with nicer option parts but i can't even find a good online parts source for this car!

Amain has a few thing but no aluminum pullies!
Don't use them.

Actually, I DO use an old Serpent 16 tooth front pulley but that is the only one you would ever want to use.
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:25 AM
  #1446  
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Originally Posted by MiamizFinest
Hey guys one last question and ill stop harrasing so much in this thread!!!

Could someone hook me up with a link to where i can find aluminum pullies for the MRX4X?? id like to hook mine up with nicer option parts but i can't even find a good online parts source for this car!

Amain has a few thing but no aluminum pullies!
Alum pullies eat belts!
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:32 AM
  #1447  
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Hey guys, can someone shed some light on the driving differences with running prosquat and antisquat also running straight? Also 4,5mm less traction with more turn in??????

Also any experiences with Kangaroo JP`s I love the Nova R1`s and purchased two purple heads recently.

Thank you.
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Old 01-31-2010, 01:20 PM
  #1448  
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I assume you're talking about the rear lower pin blocks. I have never tried mixing them and don't really recommend it.

As far as my experience goes:

Higher = more turn in off power, more forward bite (less on power steering)

Lower = less off power steering, more on power steering.

I have always preferred 5.5 but many people like the on power steering of 4.5 or 5.
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:23 PM
  #1449  
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Originally Posted by MiamizFinest
Hey guys one last question and ill stop harrasing so much in this thread!!!

Could someone hook me up with a link to where i can find aluminum pullies for the MRX4X?? id like to hook mine up with nicer option parts but i can't even find a good online parts source for this car!

Amain has a few thing but no aluminum pullies!
We are Team Titan importers. We carry all the allu pulleys, high quality low friction belts and low wear pinions for this car
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:49 PM
  #1450  
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Originally Posted by wmay11
Hey guys, can someone shed some light on the driving differences with running prosquat and antisquat also running straight? Also 4,5mm less traction with more turn in??????

Also any experiences with Kangaroo JP`s I love the Nova R1`s and purchased two purple heads recently.

Thank you.
I tried that before ..... it's waste of time fiddling the best setup by using pro squat and anti squat. The theory you expect to happen, is not there. At the end you end up with more confusion.

Copy the setup from mugen website and always use new tires before testing or racing.
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:23 AM
  #1451  
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Hi everyone,

I'm planning to have myself a 1/8 onroad and the MRX4X will be my first choice. Is it abit late as this has been released for years....

Many thanks
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:37 AM
  #1452  
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Originally Posted by wingracer
I assume you're talking about the rear lower pin blocks. I have never tried mixing them and don't really recommend it.

As far as my experience goes:

Higher = more turn in off power, more forward bite (less on power steering)

Lower = less off power steering, more on power steering.

I have always preferred 5.5 but many people like the on power steering of 4.5 or 5.
Hi, yes I am.

Thanks for the reply, so do you run straight or with pro or anti squat?
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:45 AM
  #1453  
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Originally Posted by wmay11
Hi, yes I am.

Thanks for the reply, so do you run straight or with pro or anti squat?
Read this line.

Originally Posted by wingracer
I have never tried mixing them and don't really recommend it.
The car was never designed or intended to have pro or anti squat. You can only do it by mixing the lower blocks. I do not mix the blocks, therefore I run them straight.
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Old 02-01-2010, 10:17 AM
  #1454  
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Sure, sorry man was not really sure what you meant by mixing it, otherwise I would have not asked the question perhaps?

How do you know that the car was not intended to have pro or anti squat? Very curios as so many racers mix them?
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:01 AM
  #1455  
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Originally Posted by wmay11
Sure, sorry man was not really sure what you meant by mixing it, otherwise I would have not asked the question perhaps?

How do you know that the car was not intended to have pro or anti squat? Very curios as so many racers mix them?
No one I race with mixes them. None of the team drivers do to my knowledge.

If the car was designed with that intention, the angle of the upper arm would have to be adjustable too.

When you angle the lower arm, the upright moves forward and backward as it moves up and down. In other words, the wheelbase gets shorter and longer. Without an angled upper arm, or a single pivot on the lower arm at the upright, this will cause a bind in the suspension. The only reason it can be done at all is because there is enough slop and compliance in the parts to allow it to still move. Still, this is not an ideal situation. Again, this car and all other current 1/8th chassis' I have seen are not designed to have any anti or pro squat in the rear suspension. For whatever reason, level arms just seem to work better.
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