Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

I used to Shoegoo my servo to the chassis. but it made one side of the chassis really stiff and the car felt wierd.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

That had been on the back of my mind. I think the benefits of equal flex and reduced steering slop make up for it, though. I also usually cut the front of my upper deck...... if/when Serpent releases split toe blocks it'll help alleviate that.

Speaking of, I've been tempted to try slitting one in half and adding extra mounting screws (so each piece uses 2).... only for the inner parts of the car. I don't have the equipment to do it mechanically perfect though because if one screw was off .1mm it could drastically affect the toe angle.

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

before cutting the toeblock. drill through the aluminium and chassis together then when you cut the holes will be line up. this will be good for testing your teories.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Looks nice, far more elaborate than what I was thinking of doing. I like your idea as it looks like there is little chance of it moving, but then again it looks like that could create the stiffness you don't want. Testing will be the key.

You can't have much left of that broken chassis now, lol.

For the split block, I wonder if the Tamiya ones could be adapted to the car, Ed probably has the center on center measurements for both cars and would know if the pillow ball would fit as well. Or perhaps use both Tamiya pieces at that end, as I'm sure they both use the 3mm pins.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

HMMMM..... now it's more tempting

I do have 2 other spare chassis (chassi?).... If someone has any spare 0 or 1 blocks I'll buy them to try out. I have extra 3s but I'm not sure if I'd want split blocks on the back where there isn't much chassis material. I usually don't run 2s, either, but maybe split 2 blocks on the front would be worth testing.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

Also, the composite XRAY swaybar mounts bolt onto the car perfectly. There's nothing wrong with the stock aluminum bracket, but I just find the XRAY mounts easier to use with regards to setting swaybar play.... no changing inserts.

TJames987

iTrader: (11)

Really appreciate the input on springs/ hard vs. soft parts etc earlier, big help.

I was wondering if anyone has tried this Exotech s411 chassis http://www.exotekracing.com/s411-s4x...is-extra-flex/ ??? Thoughts?

I have the original s411 therefore I think it has the 2.5 mm chassis. I was looking for something more flexi that would have better grip on carpet. I’m about to do my first carpet club race Saturday with the stock configuration.

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

Whatabout this mount? uses 2 inboard mounting screws, color suks

http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...r-2012-p-24648

rcwck

iTrader: (2)

I got one and seems close to stock TE plate. It has locating pin holes missing if you're using the plastic inner lipo stops. Why not just bust out the Dremel mill w/drum sander and add some flex? Way cheaper. Some carpet with good drugs and traction don't need lotsa flex.

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

we always have spares in stock check our website. if you like the prices I can send you a few. if you want used ones let me know I may find some lying around for half the new price

http://www.evilhobbyshop.com/S411,LA_300-2_3.html

Toughbeard

iTrader: (2)

I would run it in stock form. I usually use the 2.5mm when racing carpet and the 2.25 or the 2mm on asphalt

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

You'd probably need to drill at least 1 hole for it to work. Doesn't it bolt to the upper deck? The piece I'm testing uses pre-existing screw locations and doesn't affect the upper deck.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I ran the Exo on carpet for testing when it first came out. The car felt pretty good but really started to work better as I increased the thickness of the upper deck, so I ended up going to the stock 2.25 chassis, and eventually the the original 2.5 chassis, which is still working the best for my track. I did modify the 2.50 chassis by taking those battery bump outs off the chassis and also narrowing the other side of the chassis the same amount, so now its the same width as all the new spec chassis. To do this I actually bolted the old chassis to the new chassis for a cutting guide and then went at it with a cutting wheel.

On a side note here is some additional chassis information.

2.00 stock chassis = 56 grams
2.25 stock chassis = 62 grams
2.50 narrowed stock chassis = 66 grams
2.25 EXO chassis = 59 grams

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

After thinking about this for a while, seeing cwoods setup, and reading the lack of love for the one that xray has. Especially the problem with the servo moving from the torque of the servo itself. Cwoods multi-mount seems to address the moving problem, but may induce a little less flex due to the steering post mount, but thats still to be determined. It just makes me wonder if using the stock setup is as good as all these alternatives, when I use mine the servo is about 1mm off the chassis, just using the thickness of the servo tape as a cushion.

Now another thing came to mind, seeing all these complex over the top systems, I started thinking, why not just float a plate on the bottom of the servo. You could use the existing holes and servo mounts, but use a 1mm spacer on the center mount screws. The plate would cover the entire width of the servo and use the outside mount as well. To keep the unit from twisting a second existing hole down the center line of the chassis could be used to secure the bottom plate. The thickness of the plate itself would keep the up/down flex to a minimum, but you could probably put a small spacer at the outer most point to keep the flex down as well. The thing about this mount is it keeps all the hardware down low on the chassis.

Sure wish there was a way to measure the twist of the chassis pre and post doing these mods.

Just something to think about any discussion?

Thanks

TimPotter

iTrader: (15)

Just thought I would share a pic of the new tower/body support.