WC

iTrader: (28)

I have no problems whatsoever with the rear gears too.

All except for the 1 time when the bevel's 1280 bearing C-clip came loose and it fell into the teeth... got mashed into 5 pieces. The teeth still worked and I never discovered it until the next teardown, but the gears got a beating.

Evo_Uk

honestly, the square gearboxs dont weight much more then the stock boxs!! ill weight them up when i get some time.

The square rear uprights are lighter then the stock uprights!! how? i have no idea!!

i think im gonna install front bearing, im guessing that it will not only reduce wobble but also mean less weight on the front gearbox which will be good!!

But... ill have to ditch my lovely red support

TFR

iTrader: (11)

Hey guys, just got my EVO III. I was wondering is the drive shaft suppose to be a tight fit to the gears? Does it move freely forward and back when install or its tight?

hawker

should be a bit of play

TFR

iTrader: (11)

You mean when everything install, I should be able to move the shaft forward and backward freely?

hawker

i just checked my two cars, there is about 1-2mm, works good for me

jeffreylin

There should be a little play. It also depends on which shaft you have in your car. The original shaft is about 2mm shorter than the new light weight shaft and has more play, whereas the new improved shaft should give you minimum play.

work

iTrader: (1)

which shaft is better the tech racing or the new lightweight shaft? And do i need the penguin plate for the Jurgen 1way? thanks

V12

iTrader: (1)

never had a tech racing shaft in the car but looked at it and it´s so heavy. Don´t want it in my car. So I would go for the lightweight shaft. I have one but yet have to try. Will go in my new second EVO3.
The Penguin plate won´t work with the Jürgen oneway but also there is no need for it as this oneway is using a very big backingplate nearly as large as the onewaygear.

Evo_Uk

This questions for RtypeC

hey friend, ive tried and tried and tried, got my drivetrain super lightweight and free, flushed out the bearings and so on but i just cant get it "blow on spur free".

could you give me some tips on what other things i may need to do?

Im running ceramic diffs, bearings from the SE, alloy diff cases, lightweight prop standard axles and hubs

thanks

Tarnjit

PS any vids of you drive train spinning??

work

iTrader: (1)

thanks v12! never ran my evo3 yet still waiting for my electronics

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Hi Evo_Uk, I believe the stars and planets were perfectly alligned during that particular rebuild because it was pretty sweet. It's been over a year since I've had a drivetrain that free and to be honest, I paid for it because the gear mesh was not tight enough and made "coffee grinder" noises when I got on throttle with a 19T on high traction asphault. Nowadays, I just make sure it doesn't bind anywhere and remove shims until I get the "grinder" then I replace the shim I took out Time is better spent on track than working on the extra wheel spin.

Evo_Uk

you know what guys, i think i might sell my gearboxs and go back to the stock ones, i think you have more option with shimming...

good idea?

weekendracer_uk

Just goes to show that just because they are nice and shiney it dont mean they are any better than the standard items by Tamiya.

Evo_Uk

well i dunno, they surely are presise. they hold the bearings ALOT better indeed to reduce any wobble. but they hold it so presise that it gets rid of any shimming u might want to do.

so if i used the stock gearboxs id have to find a way of holding the bearings in better then shim it.

ill have to experiment i guess

tarnj