RockyMania

iTrader: (17)

Hi Korey,

Im going to TITC soon and seek some opinion from you as preparation:

1) do you think the FF/FR mod would work well in high speed track with wide chicanes? Perhaps you can specifically see the pictures of the track at www.titc.in.th, the TITC website or from youtube by searching for RC Addict. Somehow i feel that in high speed track, a lil more roll perhaps is easier to drive for better mid cornering. Your view?

2) hav you ever tried driving a TC but using a bathup chassis? Your view as to its effect in the setup overall?

Thanks

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I think the suspension block mod would still be good, but maybe don't run as wide. I usually always start with 1.0 deg blocks if I even try going wider than stock. I personally don't have much experience on very large tracks, so my input my not be the best when it comes to setup for the TITC. I know some of my colleagues from Orca USA will be there, and they said the track is HUGE!!!!

-Korey

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

so the general combination is 1 FR/FF or 2 fr/ff. correct?
Ok I will start off with. Pontiac had it right all along "wide is better"

ooo where is a good source fo those purple screws?
locally with the US prefered

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

As grip gets higher, I go wider. I use 1.5 as well, it just depends on the track conditions. It's something you'll have to try for yourself, and find out what works best for you

-Korey

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

I think 2.0deg FF/FR would be good on most of track conditions.
However, it might need some tweak to make it work though. For example, if the 2.0deg block combo seems don't work, try softer springs, lowering suspension blocks,etc before you go narrower.

I usually have 1.0mm underneath the front suspension blocks when i run with 2.0 blocks and try different springs, different suspension block height.

Thanks,

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

The FF/FR mod should work there too. I think it's worth to try at least.
On the side note, i just got info from Hara and he says that he runs regular FR block with 2.5deg FF block for maximize the steering. Big surprise was that he sometimes use red springs up front too.

RockyMania

iTrader: (17)

Thanks Korey and Hi-LowBlow

Hi-LowBlow, thanks for the Hara sneak tips! appreciate it alot. 1) do u know whether he is using 1.5mm or 1mmm under suspension blocks? 2) when u say u normally use 1.0mm under your front suspension blocks when using 2.0 FF/FR mod, do you also use 1.0mm under your rear suspension block?

Thanks in advance

michael.branth

HI,

This is a carpet set-up I used last night, It got me much closer to the A finla than the others I have tried. Still not there but read on, The only thing I would say is I measured the droop from the front of the wish bone, but since the car has anti-dive it would be even lower. I increased the droop for the finla race and the car was really getting there for me- Thanks every one who has pitched in with this:

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Edit 50 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 1.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mmRear 1mm Front
Droop: 7mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm,
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, MIP's
Wheelbase: 2mm behind arm ( long base)
Wheel Hex:

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 35 wt
Piston: HB 2 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1mm
Droop: 6mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck cut
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: sweep 32
Body: Protoform Mazda 6

I am ready to dial some more steering inot the car as well as take the anti-dive away so smooth out the steering through out the corner, But I will be running about 7mm front droop to start.

Other things I will be trying areand in this order one at a time)
Full re-bound in all shocks to get responsiveness back
2mm under rear ball stud- just to stop it running out of travel late in the corner.
2mm under front ball stud- to smooth transition
Standing the rear shocks up
Softer front springs


any other ideas to try appricated - and hope its of inspiration to others,

Mi

madwestmo

hmm your from the uk right ? i see your running sweep 32's , ive always used sorex 24's on carpet , do the 32's provide enough grip ? or are you running additive ? is your track permanent too or setup in a hall etc ?

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

Any swaybar gap on front or rear?
What rear diff outdrives (plastic or aluminium)?
Have you tried:
-- Solid middle deck (currently cut)?
-- Ackermann = 2mm (currently 4mm)?
-- Rear toe block = 2.5degs (currently 3.0degs)?
-- Front ride height, slightly lower than rear (currently same at 5mm)?

Cheers

michael.branth

Hi yeah plenty of grip, I've only raced at the club may 5 times now but most people are on sorex32, even going to sorex 36 in summer. The sweep where the only 32 I had. The track is non premanent but we do keep the same track design for a few weeks, so some traction does build off.

I was running nosram carpet additive, full front and rear, then half front later when the grip came up.

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

When adding shims on the Hub carrier does more shims in front translate to more or less traction?

madwestmo

ah maybe thats why everyone at my club runs sorex 24's .... no additive

trickd122

iTrader: (3)

Whats the difference between the Old sway bars and the new ones

madwestmo

korey what rebound do you use on your carpet setup you posted on here ?