zaraz

iTrader: (38)

also make sure the diff retainer ring the plastic piece are supposed to be facing the way it shows in the manual, if left and right are not the same position it throws the whole drivetrain off

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

easy way to check is to look at the pulleys outermost ring...
solid = 36T
with holes = 37T

36T


37T

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Also, you mentioned using Tamiya tires, but which ones are you using? They have several different compounds, & if you're using the wrong one for your track, you WILL spin out alot. Tires are still at least 70% of a good setup. Could you tell us more about exactly which tire you're using, & what kind of track you're running on? That can help us to help point you in the right direction.....

alex_evo

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the above pic !!!!! deffo makes it alot easier than counting haha

I know tires are very important, as in most race cars you tune the car for the tire as there is tire control, but for me im running the car at open practise's so can use any but funds are limited lololool

ATM running the tires that came with the kit so i think tamiya medium narrow slicks on a medium-high grip asphalt outdoor track

The car is ok round the low speed corners but on the high speed straights it wanders and when i try correcting it, the car just spins even with little amount of steering.
I toe out at the front this helped alittle but still very nervous on the straights

Also the play in the steering linkage (the bridge that connects the steering k16) has alot of play, i took it apart and found that the flange tube BB19 moves in the vertical direction and thats causing the play in the steering

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Well I do understand dealing with racing on a budget, but if you're using Tamiya kit tires on low-med grip asphalt, then I can almost guarantee it's the tires. Those things are about as hard as hockey pucks compared to real racing rubber, if you switch to something like some Solaris OG's(it's a spec premounted tire, some shops sell them for about $25 per SET mounted & ready to use) or Jaco Blue premounts, I think you'll see a BIG improvement everywhere....

RC Passion

iTrader: (8)

Toe out helps to increase steering, but also causes the car to wander while trying to go straight! Try a more neutral toe or even a degree of toe-in in the front. Tires, like the other guys mentioned, are a big factor in getting the car to hook up! Ask "the fast guys" what tires they use and go from there!

alex_evo

iTrader: (1)

Yes thats true but from what the Xray T3 setup book says (FRONT TOE)

toe in 'increases nervousness' 'makes car more difficult to drive"

toe out 'increases straight line stability' 'makes car easier to drive"

since im having straight line stability issues thats why i have the front toe out.
Think i need the rear to toe in more with the suspension blocks by the look of things

Gonna start again with nuetrul front toe and work from there.

Will get better tyres once the ones i have now are gone as they are newish and only been ran around 3 times lolol

alex_evo

iTrader: (1)

Been reading thru the manual alot lately and found out that the previous owner has used wrong parts to build the car im like WTF !!!!

So gonna get the right parts and sort this out !! no wonder it didnt run right at high speeds !!!

Thanks for the above info/tips and ppl trying to help me out deffo appreciate it

CSeils

iTrader: (54)

Has anyone been having issues with the front diff thrust bearing wearing out quickly? I built the diff according to the instructions. Once the bearing goes, it loosens the diff to the point that I'm driving a two wheel car. I have gone through two of them in the last 8-10 races.

Any suggestions?

C5R01

iTrader: (1)

Check your thrust bearing direction, one side is round on the edge and one side is flat.. Flat side goes on the oudside. If you don't do that it loosens and issues evolve.. Fred told me about that ( it is not listed in the directions).

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

And if that doesn't help, you could always get a TOP racing ceramic thrust assembly, works great in that car, the 416, & even in my DB01R, smooth & VERY long lasting. Having said that though, I do have to admit I don't run a diff up front, I actually prefer a spool(but I have the ceramic setup in my rear diff, smooth as silk & lasts MONTHS before needing a rebuild)....

CSeils

iTrader: (54)

Thanks guys,

I checked the Tamiya thrust bearing to make sure i had it in correctly. If I have more problems, i'll change to a TOP bearing.

Since I am using it for VTA, I can not use a spool.

Thanks for the help.

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Why not? I haven't seen any rules prohibiting spools for VTA(& I run my v2 in VTA when I can, & that's what I use in my car). Maybe I missed something, or your local track has rules I'm not aware of?

Gyr0

iTrader: (29)

Do they sell suspension blocks in plastic? Don't fancy buying the aluminum ones at ten bucks a pop.

@Art_Mighty

iTrader: (7)

Current VTA rule set

According the the rules spools are just fine. A lot of us use spools or gear diffs with really thick greases / diff locking fluids. Most tracks end up banning one-ways in VTA for some reason.