Schumacher Corner
05-19-2007, 10:16 PM
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
waiting on mine
Someone posted about the outdrives being too far out.
Can someone please post a pic of a proper placement and incorrect placement.
Have to say this is absolutely one of the best layed out cars i've seen... Fred has his at the track....sure he'll find that elusive top notch setup.
Can someone please post a pic of a proper placement and incorrect placement.
Have to say this is absolutely one of the best layed out cars i've seen... Fred has his at the track....sure he'll find that elusive top notch setup.
05-19-2007, 10:57 PM
Just make sure you have the pivot blocks and the shims on them correct and your driveshafts will be in the right place on the outdrives.
05-19-2007, 11:02 PM
Originally Posted by Static_racing
Ran my Mi2EC for the 1st time outdoors today. I barley cliped a board and it ripped the suspension mount screw clean through the chassis 
I didnt break or bend anyting else. Luckly I had the carpet chassis with me.
My car was OK.... but very loose on-power. I played with they front rollcenter and increased droop in the front. The car was better, but still really loose. Any ideas?
I didnt break or bend anyting else. Luckly I had the carpet chassis with me.
My car was OK.... but very loose on-power. I played with they front rollcenter and increased droop in the front. The car was better, but still really loose. Any ideas?
05-20-2007, 02:08 AM
Originally Posted by Static_racing
Ran my Mi2EC for the 1st time outdoors today. I barley cliped a board and it ripped the suspension mount screw clean through the chassis
I didnt break or bend anyting else. Luckly I had the carpet chassis with me.
My car was OK.... but very loose on-power. I played with they front rollcenter and increased droop in the front. The car was better, but still really loose. Any ideas?
I didnt break or bend anyting else. Luckly I had the carpet chassis with me.
My car was OK.... but very loose on-power. I played with they front rollcenter and increased droop in the front. The car was better, but still really loose. Any ideas?
If this was not the case with the chassis, try 3mm front RC and 2.0-2.5mm rear RC. I've found that 3mm front and 2.5 rear suits me the best, but one must figure that one out for himself.
05-20-2007, 04:02 AM
Originally Posted by PW
Anyone building their car; please make sure you have the suspension mounts mounted properly. If it seems like the driveshafts are barely into the outdrives then something is wrong.
05-20-2007, 04:48 AM
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Wirre
If you mean that you switched to the foam-spec bottom chassis this will give you about .5-.75 less rear toe-in, hence the terrible car under power. From my experience, one of the strengths of the Mi2EC is the superb on-power handling. Actually at the last race this indoor-season, all I could here from people was just how amazing my car was exiting corners and during acceleration.
If this was not the case with the chassis, try 3mm front RC and 2.0-2.5mm rear RC. I've found that 3mm front and 2.5 rear suits me the best, but one must figure that one out for himself.
If this was not the case with the chassis, try 3mm front RC and 2.0-2.5mm rear RC. I've found that 3mm front and 2.5 rear suits me the best, but one must figure that one out for himself.
05-20-2007, 06:38 AM
Originally Posted by olhipster1
Someone posted about the outdrives being too far out.
Can someone please post a pic of a proper placement and incorrect placement.
Have to say this is absolutely one of the best layed out cars i've seen... Fred has his at the track....sure he'll find that elusive top notch setup.
Can someone please post a pic of a proper placement and incorrect placement.
Have to say this is absolutely one of the best layed out cars i've seen... Fred has his at the track....sure he'll find that elusive top notch setup.
O-
The manual does a pretty good job with the pics - at first glance it was kinda confusing, but just pay attention to which direction the hinge pin blocks face.....
05-20-2007, 07:21 AM
Originally Posted by olhipster1
Someone posted about the outdrives being too far out.
Can someone please post a pic of a proper placement and incorrect placement.
Have to say this is absolutely one of the best layed out cars i've seen... Fred has his at the track....sure he'll find that elusive top notch setup.
Can someone please post a pic of a proper placement and incorrect placement.
Have to say this is absolutely one of the best layed out cars i've seen... Fred has his at the track....sure he'll find that elusive top notch setup.
05-20-2007, 08:17 AM
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
Hope this help
05-20-2007, 08:19 AM
Originally Posted by Fred Perkins
Man your fast! I was going to post the same pics!
anyway still building the car and lovin' it, the shocks are the bomb, their neck and neck with the TRF
05-20-2007, 10:07 AM
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
I'm the Man anyway still building the car and lovin' it, the shocks are the bomb, their neck and neck with the TRF
anyway still building the car and lovin' it, the shocks are the bomb, their neck and neck with the TRFWhile looking at your pics, I noticed in the pic of the rear, that you have a silver washer missing on the left rear most mount. In the pic, its on the upper left. I don't think this effects your settings since its on the outside of the rear mount, but just wanted you to know incase you missed it.
05-20-2007, 10:20 AM
You're not the man anymore dawg 
05-20-2007, 10:55 AM
Originally Posted by Darkseid
Hey dawg...
While looking at your pics, I noticed in the pic of the rear, that you have a silver washer missing on the left rear most mount. In the pic, its on the upper left. I don't think this effects your settings since its on the outside of the rear mount, but just wanted you to know incase you missed it.
While looking at your pics, I noticed in the pic of the rear, that you have a silver washer missing on the left rear most mount. In the pic, its on the upper left. I don't think this effects your settings since its on the outside of the rear mount, but just wanted you to know incase you missed it.
thanks
05-20-2007, 12:33 PM
I have driven Xray cars, and it was very tuff for me to switch to an personally unknown product in Schumacher/MI3. Just finished putting the MI3 together. Its the most beautiful car I have seen, and my Xray T'2007 has to take 2nd place in the looks dept compared to the MI3. Parts quality was exellent. Fit was great, instructions were very good, but light on text, unlike the Xray manuals which are still the best. The suspension blocks system was very similar to what I'm used to with the Xray T2, but the Schumacher version is defenitely more adjustable and easier to work with. THe steering link system: wow! All that CF and such a simple set up. works great.
I love the layout and the room I have for electronics since the bulkheads are now closer and the thin top deck allows everything to be placed further inside than my Xray T2. I love the beefy arms, too.
Had trouble with the center pulley assembly- on the manual it says put the caps on one way, with the indentation towards the outside...tried this but it doesnt fit- does this have to be reamed if needed, or can I just put them with the lip towards the outside and the indentation towards the pulley/inside?
The rear hubs- the pin would just not go in- it was tough, and had to ream it to get the pin to go thru- why do they come like that? Doesnt having the pin and hub tight bind the suspension? it seems the parts were off in their measurements- this should not have to be reamed--at least I didnt have to it with Xray cars and I hope this gets fixed- that's my only complain--I'm just picky about haveing to modify parts which should be perfect from the get go...
Attn all Orion 4800 Lipo users- its possible to run the 4800's on the Mi3. All that needs to be done is a minor mod to the top left corner of the pack. Just dremmel off about 2mm at an angle from that corner about 1/2 way down the pack. This creates enough clearence for the purple steering block on the steering linkage and all is good. Its easy to do and barely noticable---but best of all, no need to get rid of the 4800 or trade for the 3200...
Shocks: the front shocks are perfect....the 2 rear ones are giving me trouble...I clear the bubbles, put the cap on, and after all is set, when I move the shaft up and down it starts squeaking. So I open to check, and its full of bubbles again!!!
This keeps hapening...dont know what could be wrong...if anyone has any suggestions I'm all eyes and ears 
I love the layout and the room I have for electronics since the bulkheads are now closer and the thin top deck allows everything to be placed further inside than my Xray T2. I love the beefy arms, too.
Had trouble with the center pulley assembly- on the manual it says put the caps on one way, with the indentation towards the outside...tried this but it doesnt fit- does this have to be reamed if needed, or can I just put them with the lip towards the outside and the indentation towards the pulley/inside?
The rear hubs- the pin would just not go in- it was tough, and had to ream it to get the pin to go thru- why do they come like that? Doesnt having the pin and hub tight bind the suspension? it seems the parts were off in their measurements- this should not have to be reamed--at least I didnt have to it with Xray cars and I hope this gets fixed- that's my only complain--I'm just picky about haveing to modify parts which should be perfect from the get go...
Attn all Orion 4800 Lipo users- its possible to run the 4800's on the Mi3. All that needs to be done is a minor mod to the top left corner of the pack. Just dremmel off about 2mm at an angle from that corner about 1/2 way down the pack. This creates enough clearence for the purple steering block on the steering linkage and all is good. Its easy to do and barely noticable---but best of all, no need to get rid of the 4800 or trade for the 3200...
Shocks: the front shocks are perfect....the 2 rear ones are giving me trouble...I clear the bubbles, put the cap on, and after all is set, when I move the shaft up and down it starts squeaking. So I open to check, and its full of bubbles again!!!
This keeps hapening...dont know what could be wrong...if anyone has any suggestions I'm all eyes and ears
05-20-2007, 12:56 PM
[QUOTE=yyhayyim].
Had trouble with the center pulley assembly- on the manual it says put the caps on one way, with the indentation towards the outside...tried this but it doesnt fit- does this have to be reamed if needed, or can I just put them with the lip towards the outside and the indentation towards the pulley/inside?
Co-sign, also the center polley should have been molded as 1 piece, those side ring were tuff as hell to get on.
side note I've owned the following
1.Yok CGM
2.TRF 415
3.RDX
4.Ass. TC4
5. Cyclone
The Mi3's drive train is just SICK free the way it builds compare to the way it feels as if ran about 20 packs through this car
Had trouble with the center pulley assembly- on the manual it says put the caps on one way, with the indentation towards the outside...tried this but it doesnt fit- does this have to be reamed if needed, or can I just put them with the lip towards the outside and the indentation towards the pulley/inside?
Co-sign, also the center polley should have been molded as 1 piece, those side ring were tuff as hell to get on.
side note I've owned the following
1.Yok CGM
2.TRF 415
3.RDX
4.Ass. TC4
5. Cyclone
The Mi3's drive train is just SICK free the way it builds compare to the way it feels as if ran about 20 packs through this car