13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I've tried the rear sway bar in 1.1mm size at OCRC. Lately the grip has been pretty high and I thought this might help get me through the sweeper a bit faster, and keep from traction rolling. There's a small roller in the sweeper too, which is what made me take my sway bar back off again, as it would make the car jump sideways a bit at speed through the sweeper with the roller.

I will probably try it again on Wednesday at SCVRC as we typically run slicks, so the traction is VERY high.

lynx75

Thank you. I will let you know my first impression. Keep you posted

likea45

iTrader: (2)

I had an older motor that was starting to do that and once replaced I never looked back. Glad you found a solution.

JAE

iTrader: (30)

it appears the kit setting is with the shorter links on the outside hole of the front shock tower? Ran it this way just to try it and buggy has been great. Moved to the middle hole, matching the fact that the rear is as well, and figuring it would tame the steering, give it a more even radius, and make the cornering a more natural progression. Unlike other buggies, lengthening the link made the buggy harder to control and it seemed to be losing cornering grip. Seemed to get out of control. Perhaps the cornering grip was not as good as the camber gain was reduced. Nevertheless I've never had a buggy harder to control with shorter links.

Anyone have any practical knowledge of testing the length/height of the camber links? I'm certain this is different between buggies which is why I'm asking about experience in particular with this buggy and not a theoretical general answer

lynx75

Hi All,

are you aware of if the RB 6.6 and ZX 6.6 car build reviews have been made on the Internet please? I cannot finding anything.

Thanks

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

The ZX6.6 hasn't made it to the shores here in the U.S.

The build of the RB6.6 is similar to the RB6 if you built one in the past. You now have the different transmission options which means more bags to open to get a few parts out of it before you set it aside again.

If you are going to run the laydown transmission the case is warped a little bit, at least on mine it was. Once you bolt it all together it spins free so that should not be a problem.

Let us know if you have any specific questions.

bdyche

iTrader: (5)

In typical Kyosho fashion the manual has some things that are lost in translation, especially if you use some option parts such as aluminum rear hangers. A little bit of searching online helped me with that. The manual doesn't give directions for 4 gear laydown, but it is self explanatory. Overall I'd rate it at a 7/10 for build experience. Not to the level of Durango, but it had all of the parts, which is better than some.

Build quality is a 8/10. The transmission case (laydown) is warped, but it goes together fine and runs free. Plastic ball stud washers are kind of a joke for a $400 kit, but a couple of 0.5/1.0/2.0mm washer packs for <$5 fixed that. Plastic lower shock eyelet inserts are disappointing as I haven't ever had a kit that wasn't metal, but they haven't been a problem yet.

Value in the box is a 8/10. I purchased this car to run on carpet with pin tires 3x a month and high bite clay for a monthly series. The only required upgrade parts were a gear diff (~$30 with the aluminum cap).

As far as non-essential parts go, I also purchased gold and red front springs and white rear springs ($60 total) to suit my track. For the sake of building it once and not having to upgrade later I added the aluminum rear hangers and aluminum hubs, but I wouldn't say those are required to make the car work. To make working on the car easier I will be upgrading to Lunsford ball studs so I can use a 2.0mm driver vs a 5.5mm.

Durability is typical Kyosho - 7/10. You may not get away with some crashes that a TLR or AE might, but you don't have to worry about it breaking randomly. Wear will be good as it uses the same material as the RB6.

Overall a solid 8.5/10 - the best value on the market for someone who races on multiple surfaces and only wants one car.

lynx75

@Kraig and @bdyche I wanna thank you So much.

I will keep you posted in case of support. I will build my new kit with laydown trasmission to be used on carpet and astroturf.

lynx75

@bdyche

Would you please give me further details on this part of the information?

...especially if you use some option parts such as aluminum rear hangers. A little bit of searching online helped me with that.

thanks

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Looking for a setup for high traction tight indoor clay. Got a 6.6 in a trade for my B6.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

John, do you want my setup? I haven't had it over to LRH lately but it's been to OCRC and SCVRC with good results so far. I'm planning to come over to LRH soon too. LMK.

BOOSTN

Is anyone here running rear motor with a standard size 2S pack?

I'm interested in seeing how you've run you're electrics.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone had experience running the Avid slipper with mod? Or the Schelle, they are very similar. Given the overall size of the slipper pads and plates, I wonder if the stock slipper plates would be better with a larger surface area. Most of the surfaces I race on are medium to high bite clay. I've been experimenting with two red pads, and one white, and I've also tried using the FR4 pads for the avid setup. I'm thinking FR4 pads with the vented KYO slipper plates might last longer with less fade.

Scott Smither

Well it's a shorty but this is what I've got.

Can anyone tell me the difference in the front kick up C mount vs the B mount?

hairymuffin

iTrader: (105)

To run a long pack,you will need to use the esc mount that comes in the kit,and your Rx on the side of chassis,you have more options using a shorty pack