219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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06-11-2016, 05:23 AM
#3796
When we had tekno shafts in our Traxxas slash's the shafts came with o'rings for exactly what your saying. Were still noisy as heck ..
06-11-2016, 05:26 AM
#3797
Is there any up grade for more of a automotive style universal joint. This pin and a slot design really blows..
Last edited by SerpJimmy; 06-11-2016 at 06:12 AM.
06-11-2016, 12:40 PM
#3799
Tech Regular
06-11-2016, 03:09 PM
#3800
06-11-2016, 05:05 PM
#3801
Tech Regular
06-11-2016, 05:11 PM
#3802
as you can see from the plethora options for pin and slot alternatives, scaling down anything from the 1:1 world is not easy, simple, lighter, stronger, cheaper, or better. 
I have seen some CV joints that use ball bearings, but there were some negatives to them. Weight, and the need for suspension travel are all barriers.
MIP make their CVD kits, but they are tanks needed to be strong enough. They use a sliding shaft to account for suspension travel.
I have seen some CV joints that use ball bearings, but there were some negatives to them. Weight, and the need for suspension travel are all barriers.
MIP make their CVD kits, but they are tanks needed to be strong enough. They use a sliding shaft to account for suspension travel.
06-11-2016, 05:50 PM
#3803
No oring under shock collar (preload adjuster)? Just want to make sure
06-11-2016, 06:08 PM
#3804
If I understand you correctly, yes, you want the o-ring in the inside groove of the pre-load adjuster. It will give it just enough friction to keep the adjuster fro moving unintentionally.
06-11-2016, 06:14 PM
#3805
Didn't see a groove on the stock plastic adjusters and don't have a o-ring, that was my concern, that the adjusters would be free to move without it
06-11-2016, 07:02 PM
#3806
Tech Adept
06-11-2016, 07:11 PM
#3807
06-11-2016, 07:42 PM
#3808
I never stated you want a cold battery, but you dang sure don't want a hot one either.
They are essentially just warming their packs up to get the chemistry to release electrons more efficiently due to thermal expansion.
But... There is a threshold for which is optimum over a run. Being to cold as well as to warm will exponentially decrease your performance.
Additional caps them selves are important to further normalize the voltage and amperage output to prevent crossing said threshold.
Trust me when I tell you a cap pack WILL make your setup better!
