superslow

iTrader: (10)

one thing you might want to check is the weight on one side of the car compared to the other. at my track the weight limit is 3.31 i add about 10 to 11 7gram lead weights to the passenger side of the car. what i do is the old el cheapo method of balancing. i use golf tees and put then where the spline plate goes just remove front and back screw. set it on something level and see what way the car tips. the battery a 3800 or a 3300 will weigh more that the components. so when you turn one way you will have a different weight shift. anyone have comments on this issue.

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

Alright, so from what ive seen, the motor mount of tc4 is bolted on, fixing the problem of melted mount on tc3 chassis.

My question is, can i just simply mill out my tc3 chassis, drill holes, and mount the tc4 motor mount?

and if so, would the factory team mount work as well or only the team mount?

Thanks

frog racing

Trinity has shown on their website what many have been waiting for.

http://www.teamtrinity.com/4200.html

IB 4200 cells plus a couple of motors.

losirunner

i need a good carpet and on road setup for my TC4. I got it used, but have no idea how to set it up, as i am an off roader

MOJO

iTrader: (1)

Go to rc10.com scroll down to setup sheets then onroad then pick a setup!

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Hey Brian... you guys still planning on running this coming weekend? Let me know...

- DaveW

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Chad Phillips just posted that he and Blackstock will be running at Horsham on the same day....just a thought

ffiB

This may have been covered somewhere in the 244 pages here, but Im lazy. I just bought the team kit and am really frustrated with the instructions. Ill post some pics. Obviously there are some mistakes, or Im reading them wrong. Odds are, the book is wrong.

And if yall have any suggestions as far as set ups go, must do's or anything else that will help an old timer out, is much appreciated.

Peace from Houston Tx.

Biff

ffiB

My bad. I was wondering why my pic wouldnt load, then I noticed a server upgrade notice.

koabich

In mosts cases such as yours the book is usually wrong

What is your issue with the book? Was there an area you needed help with or were you just letting everyone know the book is incorrect? If you need help just ask!

Personally, I didn't have an issue with the book for either the Team or the FT version. But then again I am very familiar with the TC3 so I needed the book very little. But then again, Odds are the books was good!

ffiB

Man, I feel I just got smacked down!


I can see now that I will regret asking a simple question. I was going somewhere, but the my pics wont load. I was merely asking for help since the instructions are wrong. BTW, Im not a noob stirring the pot. This might be my first AE TC, but I have been racing for 11 years and I can tell when the instructions are wrong.

Dont ever assume the guy asking a question is a troll. Thats why the noobs quit the hobby and take up bowling.

Can someone else help me with the transmission drawings? The spacing, the shim placement is wrong in the book. I have figured out the rear end and pics are posted on my site, but I came here to ask the experts since my site doesnt get alot of traffic.

Since posting pics are not working right now, Ill post a link and any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Biff!

http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/sh...732#post355732

BTW, my handle is Gary.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Far from a Pro but...

BIFF: Unfortunately there is no final answer on transmission shims. You are right, the instruction manual is a good starting point... but to be "just right" it needs a little "hand fitting". Most important to remember is a little blacklash in the gears... just as you would set your spur and pinion. No bearing should be so tightly shimmed that it is sideloaded, which could damage it in use. This also includes the main driveshaft. Make sure that the foam inserts in the cups are not pressing the driveshaft tight... this will sideload the bearings on the main layshafts in the tranny cases. The mainshaft and the tranny layshafts need to "float" a bit. I actually cut one of the cup foam inserts in half... half for each cup. Seems to be pretty close from kit to kit. Keep in mind that chassis flex while you drive the car WILL reduce the amount of play between the cups and the mainshaft, so there is going to be no perfect setting... but err on the loose side for the mainshaft, err tighter on the shims for the layshafts and diffs. If the tranny layshafts and diffs are too loose... the car will be excessively noisy and you will have premature gear wear. Hope this helps.



- DaveW

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Hey Dave I will be their Sat the 17th at Frederick. I ran my FT TC4 for the first time at Frederick since the big race and I was pleasantly surprised on how the car worked compared to my non FT TC4 witht he BMI kit on it. I'm not sure why but the car was not too far off my RDX that I ran at the big race and I had no gear issues. I didn't get to run a one way like I did at the big race so I'm interested to see what times I can run once I get the one way since the layout is still flowing. I'm glad the car seems nice on asphalt for me because my shop has no problems getting Assoc. stuff so I hope to pilot this car all season.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Sweet Brian, im glad you had a good day with your FT! I was seriously considering a run up there... will there be enough of a turnout for a race? Ill be able to run stock and 19T. If so what class? I have a HD one-way in my box if you would like to try before you buy. Ill know more by wednesday on my plans. They do still have tires in stock right?

- DaveW

ffiB

Thanks Dave. I wish the pics would load so I coud show what Im talking about. For example, Bag "E" Step 3. They show a shim and a bearing in front of the drivehaft coupling where the roll pin should engage insted.

I have that part figured out. Where Im lost is Bag E, transmission step 7.