Durango DEX210 Thread
#1502
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
I am having pushing issues. I tried a few things to much to list right now but it pushes in and has very little on power steering.
I have the 4 gear trans, 1.5 kick, 0 deg tow and 30 deg caster. The springs are light blue rear dark front 40w & 30w oil. I also have 1 spacer in camber link mount.
0 on the front axle block with 2 spacers front and behind.
I have the 4 gear trans, 1.5 kick, 0 deg tow and 30 deg caster. The springs are light blue rear dark front 40w & 30w oil. I also have 1 spacer in camber link mount.
0 on the front axle block with 2 spacers front and behind.
#1504
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
I am having pushing issues. I tried a few things to much to list right now but it pushes in and has very little on power steering.
I have the 4 gear trans, 1.5 kick, 0 deg tow and 30 deg caster. The springs are light blue rear dark front 40w & 30w oil. I also have 1 spacer in camber link mount.
0 on the front axle block with 2 spacers front and behind.
I have the 4 gear trans, 1.5 kick, 0 deg tow and 30 deg caster. The springs are light blue rear dark front 40w & 30w oil. I also have 1 spacer in camber link mount.
0 on the front axle block with 2 spacers front and behind.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9850981-post1381.html
the other , is that you are running the 4 gear. Switch to the 3 gear and fix your spring rates, and you will be good.
#1505
I am having pushing issues. I tried a few things to much to list right now but it pushes in and has very little on power steering.
I have the 4 gear trans, 1.5 kick, 0 deg tow and 30 deg caster. The springs are light blue rear dark front 40w & 30w oil. I also have 1 spacer in camber link mount.
0 on the front axle block with 2 spacers front and behind.
I have the 4 gear trans, 1.5 kick, 0 deg tow and 30 deg caster. The springs are light blue rear dark front 40w & 30w oil. I also have 1 spacer in camber link mount.
0 on the front axle block with 2 spacers front and behind.
#1506
Tech Master
iTrader: (65)
issues with build
I am having issues with my dex210 build. If you join the side pods and the servo side pieces (that clamp down on the steering rack,) the chassis holes do not line up. The chassis holes line up perfectly under the steering rack + servo holders, and they line up perfectly under the side pods, each by themselves. If you install the steering rack and servo side pieces, the holes under the side pods are off by about a mm.
Has anyone else experienced this. What is the solution?
Has anyone else experienced this. What is the solution?
#1507
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
I am having issues with my dex210 build. If you join the side pods and the servo side pieces (that clamp down on the steering rack,) the chassis holes do not line up. The chassis holes line up perfectly under the steering rack + servo holders, and they line up perfectly under the side pods, each by themselves. If you install the steering rack and servo side pieces, the holes under the side pods are off by about a mm.
Has anyone else experienced this. What is the solution?
Has anyone else experienced this. What is the solution?
#1509
#1512
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Ran my 210 for the first time last night....woo hoo!!
Even with way too thick of rear oil (40wt Losi oil cause I had some when I put the car together), the car was great out of the box.
A drop to 32.5wt in the rear (30wt might be even a little better) and it was even better.
A change in the lower front shock position got me some more off power mid corner steering (moved the bottom to inside hole on arm)
Set ride height to 24mm all the way around...kit springs...3 gear rear motor....med grip clay track.
I have 5 TOTAL runs on this car and am already within 3-5 tenths on average of the fast guys that run the layout 2-3 times a week (this was my 2nd time on the layout and first with the 210....and I wasnt even close with my "other" car)
Some more time and tuning on the car it will be stellar (it really already is!)
On to the talk of diff problems.....I did have an issue with mine during practice right after the car's second run.....diff started slipping BAD (not barking, just slipping like a slipper), yet the diff action was SUPER tight (but still smooth)
After taking off a million screws to get the trans out I found the diff gear was able to wobble slightly yet the diff felt really tight. Disassembled the diff to check the thrust assembly and noticed the snap ring didnt look like it was seated correctly like when I first put it together (you could tell because the open end of the clip was really close together) Took a flathead screwdriver and "twisted" it in the opening while pushing on the snap ring and it "clicked" into place. Somehow I may have not got the snap ring fully seated in the groove inside the outdrive and when I tightened the diff screw it pushed on the assembly and actually pushed the snap ring out of the groove....which would cause everything to "squish" together and bind up (why the diff was soo tight) as well as try to force the outdrives away from each other (which is probably why the diff gear was now wobbly).
So, MAKE SURE THE SNAP RING IS FULLY SEATED IN THE OUTDRIVE AND LOCKED INTO THE GROOVE TIGHT!!
I suspect this may be everyones problem with the diffs slipping..... after my "fix" I put on 3 more runs with no issues, a super smooth diff and no slipping or barking.
Even with way too thick of rear oil (40wt Losi oil cause I had some when I put the car together), the car was great out of the box.
A drop to 32.5wt in the rear (30wt might be even a little better) and it was even better.
A change in the lower front shock position got me some more off power mid corner steering (moved the bottom to inside hole on arm)
Set ride height to 24mm all the way around...kit springs...3 gear rear motor....med grip clay track.
I have 5 TOTAL runs on this car and am already within 3-5 tenths on average of the fast guys that run the layout 2-3 times a week (this was my 2nd time on the layout and first with the 210....and I wasnt even close with my "other" car)
Some more time and tuning on the car it will be stellar (it really already is!)
On to the talk of diff problems.....I did have an issue with mine during practice right after the car's second run.....diff started slipping BAD (not barking, just slipping like a slipper), yet the diff action was SUPER tight (but still smooth)
After taking off a million screws to get the trans out I found the diff gear was able to wobble slightly yet the diff felt really tight. Disassembled the diff to check the thrust assembly and noticed the snap ring didnt look like it was seated correctly like when I first put it together (you could tell because the open end of the clip was really close together) Took a flathead screwdriver and "twisted" it in the opening while pushing on the snap ring and it "clicked" into place. Somehow I may have not got the snap ring fully seated in the groove inside the outdrive and when I tightened the diff screw it pushed on the assembly and actually pushed the snap ring out of the groove....which would cause everything to "squish" together and bind up (why the diff was soo tight) as well as try to force the outdrives away from each other (which is probably why the diff gear was now wobbly).
So, MAKE SURE THE SNAP RING IS FULLY SEATED IN THE OUTDRIVE AND LOCKED INTO THE GROOVE TIGHT!!
I suspect this may be everyones problem with the diffs slipping..... after my "fix" I put on 3 more runs with no issues, a super smooth diff and no slipping or barking.
#1515
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
I am having pushing issues. I tried a few things to much to list right now but it pushes in and has very little on power steering.
I have the 4 gear trans, 1.5 kick, 0 deg tow and 30 deg caster. The springs are light blue rear dark front 40w & 30w oil. I also have 1 spacer in camber link mount.
0 on the front axle block with 2 spacers front and behind.
I have the 4 gear trans, 1.5 kick, 0 deg tow and 30 deg caster. The springs are light blue rear dark front 40w & 30w oil. I also have 1 spacer in camber link mount.
0 on the front axle block with 2 spacers front and behind.
But to start...
Going to 3 gear trans should help..... but first, I would go to 35wt in the front shocks, set ride height front and rear to 24mm, if you are running the lower front shock mount outside on the arm then move it to the inside hole on the arm. I'm running 3 deg anti squat in the rear with 3 deg total toe in (0 deg insert on rear hubs) And I still run the kit springs.
I run on a med grip clay track and my car was really easy to drive.