18LikesTRF414M, 404x, 414, 414X
12-02-2008, 08:37 AM
#3286
GCT69,
Got the car clean last night.
Here are the pics Link:
http://s375.photobucket.com/albums/o...72nova/TRF414/
Let me know what you think
Dave
Got the car clean last night.
Here are the pics Link:
http://s375.photobucket.com/albums/o...72nova/TRF414/
Let me know what you think
Dave
12-02-2008, 09:52 AM
#3287
GCT69,
Got the car clean last night.
Here are the pics Link:
http://s375.photobucket.com/albums/o...72nova/TRF414/
Let me know what you think
Dave
Got the car clean last night.
Here are the pics Link:
http://s375.photobucket.com/albums/o...72nova/TRF414/
Let me know what you think
Dave
tnx
12-02-2008, 10:10 AM
#3288
Hello,
When I started out I bought the Suspension kit for the TB02/TA04 from Japan last spring. I have 42mm shafts in the front and 46mm shafts in the back. The 415 blocks bolt right no mods needed. The 416 shock towers, you have to make new holes on the bottom bolt holes. The upper holes line right to the bulkheads. I used my old shock towers as a guide. After this mod it does lower the shock upper location down a couple mm. I think it helps with the suspension movement. I never drove the car better the changes. My car is used as a T/A car with 21.5/lipo power.
I do love how the car handles!
I hope this helps
Dave
When I started out I bought the Suspension kit for the TB02/TA04 from Japan last spring. I have 42mm shafts in the front and 46mm shafts in the back. The 415 blocks bolt right no mods needed. The 416 shock towers, you have to make new holes on the bottom bolt holes. The upper holes line right to the bulkheads. I used my old shock towers as a guide. After this mod it does lower the shock upper location down a couple mm. I think it helps with the suspension movement. I never drove the car better the changes. My car is used as a T/A car with 21.5/lipo power.
I do love how the car handles!
I hope this helps
Dave
Last edited by dragracer72nova; 12-02-2008 at 02:01 PM.
12-02-2008, 10:16 AM
#3289
Tech Apprentice
hey all
nice to see that you guy`s racing the "old" cars
I really like to read this tread.
-x414x which nr 414 do you have ?
nice to see that you guy`s racing the "old" cars
I really like to read this tread.
-x414x which nr 414 do you have ?
12-02-2008, 02:15 PM
#3290
Tech Adept
gizmo:
It's number 563. It all started with the bulkheads procured from Yahoo auctions Japan (left-overs from a 414m conversion). Everything else was order from Tamiya USA about 5 years ago. I got out of the hobby and got hooked on full-scale autos
Now that my full scale project car is damn near done, I now have some dough and plenty of time to get back into r/c's. Never expected brushless motors to catch on
It's number 563. It all started with the bulkheads procured from Yahoo auctions Japan (left-overs from a 414m conversion). Everything else was order from Tamiya USA about 5 years ago. I got out of the hobby and got hooked on full-scale autos
Now that my full scale project car is damn near done, I now have some dough and plenty of time to get back into r/c's. Never expected brushless motors to catch on
12-02-2008, 02:55 PM
#3291
Tech Apprentice
x414x
great and neat built
be sure to take good care of her, spares are very hard to find
good job
In my opion my 414`s racing times are over.(got 416wce for that)
they now rest on display.
They where great cars and they never broke down.....
Its fun to read people are still using them,
regards
great and neat built
be sure to take good care of her, spares are very hard to find
good job
In my opion my 414`s racing times are over.(got 416wce for that)
they now rest on display.
They where great cars and they never broke down.....
Its fun to read people are still using them,
regards
12-02-2008, 03:20 PM
#3292
Hello,
When I started out I bought the Suspension kit for the TB02/TA04 from Japan last spring. I have 42mm shafts in the front and 46mm shafts in the back. The 415 blocks bolt right no mods needed. The 416 shock towers, you have to make new holes on the bottom bolt holes. The upper holes line right to the bulkheads. I used my old shock towers as a guide. After this mod it does lower the shock upper location down a couple mm. I think it helps with the suspension movement. I never drove the car better the changes. My car is used as a T/A car with 21.5/lipo power.
I do love how the car handles!
I hope this helps
Dave
When I started out I bought the Suspension kit for the TB02/TA04 from Japan last spring. I have 42mm shafts in the front and 46mm shafts in the back. The 415 blocks bolt right no mods needed. The 416 shock towers, you have to make new holes on the bottom bolt holes. The upper holes line right to the bulkheads. I used my old shock towers as a guide. After this mod it does lower the shock upper location down a couple mm. I think it helps with the suspension movement. I never drove the car better the changes. My car is used as a T/A car with 21.5/lipo power.
I do love how the car handles!
I hope this helps
Dave
12-02-2008, 06:13 PM
#3293
Yes they do. I have to clean my car from racing this past week, but I get some pics of my 414Hybrid. You will have to go with longer CV axle shafts. My car has a 414 chassis, bulkheads, steering rack, with 415 Lite weight suspension and 416 front & rear shock towers and finish it off with 416 front hubs.
Dave
I will post some pics when I get the car clean
Dave
I will post some pics when I get the car clean
Why with the 416 hubs?does it differ with a 415/evo blocks?
12-02-2008, 06:16 PM
#3294
Hello,
I am running the 416 front hub because they give me the space I need to run the HPI Trans/Am wheel and tire combo on the front. I run 5mm hex with a.5mm spacer. The standard 415 will work but not for my T/A car. I will check to see how the fronts will work with a set of Jaco Prism foams.
Dave
12-03-2008, 08:57 PM
#3296
dave,
tnx for the info
tnx for the info
12-09-2008, 07:45 PM
#3297
Tech Master
Heres my set-up I used at the IIC for rubber tire carpet set-up
I ran the short light weight arms
front:
evo4 spool and locked center pulleys
ta05 black thick sway bar
1d/1d
arm spacing at the blocks were 3mm front and 6mm to the rear
2 hole pistons with associated 50 weight and tamiya white springs
middle hole on the shock tower
I used the camber kink mounts on the shock tower-middle long hole on the shock tower
6mm of droop measured with an ae droop guage at the arm
4mm wheel hexes with no spacers all the way around
0 degrees of toe out in the front
rear:
I used 415 aluminum diff halves for a more durable rear diff no shimms( there will be a little slop, it works fine)
ta05 black medium sway bar and original 0 degree uprights with a 2mm spacer under the camber link(middle hole)
1xa/1e
arm spacing at the blocks were 9mm closest to the motor/1mm to the rear
3 hole pistons associated 50wt with tamiya white springs middle hole on the shock tower
camber links were the same as the front ont shock tower(middle long)
5mm of droop measured the same way
1 1/2 camber all the way around and 5mm ride height
sauced the rear tires for 10 minutes prior to sauceing the front(only sauced 1/2 of the fronts)
mazda speed 6
jaco blues were the handout tire
I also moved the motor to the center of the car by shimming it 8mm with a ta04 top lay shaft
Note: fast lap if I remember correctly was around 11.9? and my fast lap was a 12.11. The set-up wasn't perfect, but was easy to drive hard. I just couldn't drive for 5 minutes without making mistakes. if your battery doesn't clear the front belt. Just a belt tensioner on the lower deck. Hope this helps you guys with a good starting point for rubber tire carpet.
I ran the short light weight arms
front:
evo4 spool and locked center pulleys
ta05 black thick sway bar
1d/1d
arm spacing at the blocks were 3mm front and 6mm to the rear
2 hole pistons with associated 50 weight and tamiya white springs
middle hole on the shock tower
I used the camber kink mounts on the shock tower-middle long hole on the shock tower
6mm of droop measured with an ae droop guage at the arm
4mm wheel hexes with no spacers all the way around
0 degrees of toe out in the front
rear:
I used 415 aluminum diff halves for a more durable rear diff no shimms( there will be a little slop, it works fine)
ta05 black medium sway bar and original 0 degree uprights with a 2mm spacer under the camber link(middle hole)
1xa/1e
arm spacing at the blocks were 9mm closest to the motor/1mm to the rear
3 hole pistons associated 50wt with tamiya white springs middle hole on the shock tower
camber links were the same as the front ont shock tower(middle long)
5mm of droop measured the same way
1 1/2 camber all the way around and 5mm ride height
sauced the rear tires for 10 minutes prior to sauceing the front(only sauced 1/2 of the fronts)
mazda speed 6
jaco blues were the handout tire
I also moved the motor to the center of the car by shimming it 8mm with a ta04 top lay shaft
Note: fast lap if I remember correctly was around 11.9? and my fast lap was a 12.11. The set-up wasn't perfect, but was easy to drive hard. I just couldn't drive for 5 minutes without making mistakes. if your battery doesn't clear the front belt. Just a belt tensioner on the lower deck. Hope this helps you guys with a good starting point for rubber tire carpet.
12-09-2008, 08:06 PM
#3298
Heres my set-up I used at the IIC for rubber tire carpet set-up
I ran the short light weight arms
front:
evo4 spool and locked center pulleys
ta05 black thick sway bar
1d/1d
arm spacing at the blocks were 3mm front and 6mm to the rear
2 hole pistons with associated 50 weight and tamiya white springs
middle hole on the shock tower
I used the camber kink mounts on the shock tower-middle long hole on the shock tower
6mm of droop measured with an ae droop guage at the arm
4mm wheel hexes with no spacers all the way around
0 degrees of toe out in the front
rear:
I used 415 aluminum diff halves for a more durable rear diff no shimms( there will be a little slop, it works fine)
ta05 black medium sway bar and original 0 degree uprights with a 2mm spacer under the camber link(middle hole)
1xa/1e
arm spacing at the blocks were 9mm closest to the motor/1mm to the rear
3 hole pistons associated 50wt with tamiya white springs middle hole on the shock tower
camber links were the same as the front ont shock tower(middle long)
5mm of droop measured the same way
1 1/2 camber all the way around and 5mm ride height
sauced the rear tires for 10 minutes prior to sauceing the front(only sauced 1/2 of the fronts)
mazda speed 6
jaco blues were the handout tire
I also moved the motor to the center of the car by shimming it 8mm with a ta04 top lay shaft
Note: fast lap if I remember correctly was around 11.9? and my fast lap was a 12.11. The set-up wasn't perfect, but was easy to drive hard. I just couldn't drive for 5 minutes without making mistakes. if your battery doesn't clear the front belt. Just a belt tensioner on the lower deck. Hope this helps you guys with a good starting point for rubber tire carpet.
I ran the short light weight arms
front:
evo4 spool and locked center pulleys
ta05 black thick sway bar
1d/1d
arm spacing at the blocks were 3mm front and 6mm to the rear
2 hole pistons with associated 50 weight and tamiya white springs
middle hole on the shock tower
I used the camber kink mounts on the shock tower-middle long hole on the shock tower
6mm of droop measured with an ae droop guage at the arm
4mm wheel hexes with no spacers all the way around
0 degrees of toe out in the front
rear:
I used 415 aluminum diff halves for a more durable rear diff no shimms( there will be a little slop, it works fine)
ta05 black medium sway bar and original 0 degree uprights with a 2mm spacer under the camber link(middle hole)
1xa/1e
arm spacing at the blocks were 9mm closest to the motor/1mm to the rear
3 hole pistons associated 50wt with tamiya white springs middle hole on the shock tower
camber links were the same as the front ont shock tower(middle long)
5mm of droop measured the same way
1 1/2 camber all the way around and 5mm ride height
sauced the rear tires for 10 minutes prior to sauceing the front(only sauced 1/2 of the fronts)
mazda speed 6
jaco blues were the handout tire
I also moved the motor to the center of the car by shimming it 8mm with a ta04 top lay shaft
Note: fast lap if I remember correctly was around 11.9? and my fast lap was a 12.11. The set-up wasn't perfect, but was easy to drive hard. I just couldn't drive for 5 minutes without making mistakes. if your battery doesn't clear the front belt. Just a belt tensioner on the lower deck. Hope this helps you guys with a good starting point for rubber tire carpet.
Thank's for all the info.
12-13-2008, 05:42 PM
#3299
got my best race of the season..... car handled great but I think I can gear up to two more teeth. Used to do just 32-33 laps, manage to do 35 laps. All I need to do now is be more consistent and more fluidity on turns.
