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Old 06-02-2008, 03:16 AM
  #7246  
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Originally Posted by Andy Crosson
PLEASE HELP -

How often do you guys rebuild your diff, like actually get new thrust balls, washers, etc.?

Well, my problem is that my rear diff keeps slipping. Even though I've cleaned it out and reassembled it several times. I've tried changing bell tightnesses, front diff tightness, everything but buying new stuff.

what should I try, fix, or buy?
thanks.
Well, I can pass you my experience. A differential that starts perfect and open itself while drivingm up to melt the pulley...
Use thread lock over the diff hub, 12 packs with no slip.

Hope this helps!
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:03 PM
  #7247  
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Default Lipo tray

for those who have been looking for a lipo tray, I just ordered one over the weekend... Its been a long wait and finally found/got one!! At the time of ordering there was two available, and then I checked today and the second is already gone. It is amazing to see how much these are in demand..

Good luck in your search for one..

I ordered mine at losipartshouse.com
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:35 PM
  #7248  
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Originally Posted by maximebeauvais
last night was my second night with a one way.

I was able to get a good setup and car was running fine.

HOWEVER, on one of the one way bearing, it was jamming all the time???? do it ever happen to you? should I contact losi? I'm pretty pist off about that. only 2 night of practice and bang...something wrong with my one way
hey dont feel bad a broke 2 in 3 runs
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:11 AM
  #7249  
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Originally Posted by Andy Crosson
hey dont feel bad a broke 2 in 3 runs
and yet somehow I ran mine all year long with no problems. Like I've said before, they're fragile and most drivers now a days can't drive them, but they are faster
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:39 AM
  #7250  
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Originally Posted by B-Master
hay guys i am after some setup help i am currenty running the tim hamm low grip setup (uploaded below) the setup worked alot better than the current setup i was running but its still a little slipery on the rear i changed a few things with the below setup which did help a little

1) 30lb springs front (better)
2) removed rear sway (better)
3) rear shocks brought in 1 space (better steering)

Problem = still alittle lose at the rear (on power out fo courners) and limited steering but changing shock angle (rear) helped lots

sorry if i have not explained this very well still very new to setting up cars properly i am running RP30's (i can use diffrent ones) and racing on a small asplult track in the UK weather is not to warm and running 13.5t brushless spedd passion setup

if anyone can give me some pointers on some things to try next time i race to solve the issues i have as the car still feels very loose on power comming out of the courners and i really could do with a bit more steering. i have set the speed controler to its lowest punch setting

any tips/pointers greatly appericated
If your running 30lb front springs, There is a issue some where.. Thats a carpet foam spring.. Run 17 front to start.

Try this..I have used this as start at all tracks and has worked every where..

Here is set up I been using most recently. Low med bite. Also ran on High Bite and won also. So this set up is easy to drive. May not be fast lap car all the time. But will make car a great car to be in the show in battle for top spot.

Front
40 wt oil 17 springs stock pistons
4 caster blocks
Med wheel base
1 1/2 camber
.5 mm toe out
.40 sway bar
5 mm ride height
2 1/2 mm droop over RH
top shocks #2 hole
Camber link set up #1 on tower and tall ball stud on caster block
spool high
high roll centers
#1 on spindle rod end
#2 on steering rack

Rear
30 weight oil 15 lb springs stock pistons
Med wheel base
No sway bar
High roll center
#2 pivot block
stock hubs o*
rear link 5A w/ tall ball stud
shocks tower #2 outside arm
1 1/2 camber
ride height 5 1/2
droop 3mm over RH
diff low


Motor 13.5 gear 104x45

When I measure droop.. I set car to rh on board. Hold wheel carfully while lifting that corner of chassie to see when car is in full droop thats the droop # I use. Maybe Jason can explain better as I got this from him. But thats best was as car already has droop in sag sitting at ride heifgt. So if chassie is 5 MM RH I need chassie to be at 8mm while in full drop while measuring to get 3 mm.

Hope this helps some...
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Old 06-03-2008, 04:29 AM
  #7251  
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Jon thank you for taking the time to post the above for me its greatly appericated i will give that setup a go on friday night

1 thing i am very unsure of is the "rollcenter" how would i best set the roll center to high ... sorry if this is a lame question still fairly new to touring car and very new to the technical setting up side of it all

again thanks for the reply
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Old 06-03-2008, 04:52 AM
  #7252  
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Hi, this is my first post here and want to say that it is a great forum.

I`m from spain and i run with a typeR, we run in a large outdoor gas tracks medium grip and run with mod and Lipo without weight limit, we run with foams and the rear we use is 30mm(control tyre take off 35), the cars are very fast(only tenths with the gas guys), the car is great and have no traction problems( the motor is mamba max6900) the only thing i miss is a little more steering on power, the tracks are very fast but with some hairpins i run with the stock setup except for softer springs in the front and 6ºcaster blocks(front diff also), have anyone a setup for this conditions?

And also last race was a special format, 30 mins, most people went for two stops but with the "fast" change of batteris of the car i have to go for one (maxamps 6000 and reedy neo1star), have anyone a idea on how to make a fast change of batteris for this car.

best regards from spain
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:25 AM
  #7253  
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Originally Posted by B-Master
Jon thank you for taking the time to post the above for me its greatly appericated i will give that setup a go on friday night

1 thing i am very unsure of is the "rollcenter" how would i best set the roll center to high ... sorry if this is a lame question still fairly new to touring car and very new to the technical setting up side of it all

again thanks for the reply
You're roll center adjustments come from your toe and pivot blocks. The aluminum parts that hold your hinge pins on your chassis. If you want a high roll center than flip the toe block 180* and switch the smaller braces from left to right. Just remember when you rotate them that you still have to be in the inside hole. Basically in doing this you are raising your arms further off the chassis.
Good Luck,
Casey
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:52 AM
  #7254  
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Originally Posted by John Tag
If your running 30lb front springs, There is a issue some where.. Thats a carpet foam spring.. Run 17 front to start.

Try this..I have used this as start at all tracks and has worked every where..

Here is set up I been using most recently. Low med bite. Also ran on High Bite and won also. So this set up is easy to drive. May not be fast lap car all the time. But will make car a great car to be in the show in battle for top spot.

Front
40 wt oil 17 springs stock pistons
4 caster blocks
Med wheel base
1 1/2 camber
.5 mm toe out
.40 sway bar
5 mm ride height
2 1/2 mm droop over RH
top shocks #2 hole
Camber link set up #1 on tower and tall ball stud on caster block
spool high
high roll centers
#1 on spindle rod end
#2 on steering rack

Rear
30 weight oil 15 lb springs stock pistons
Med wheel base
No sway bar
High roll center
#2 pivot block
stock hubs o*
rear link 5A w/ tall ball stud
shocks tower #2 outside arm
1 1/2 camber
ride height 5 1/2
droop 3mm over RH
diff low


Motor 13.5 gear 104x45

When I measure droop.. I set car to rh on board. Hold wheel carfully while lifting that corner of chassie to see when car is in full droop thats the droop # I use. Maybe Jason can explain better as I got this from him. But thats best was as car already has droop in sag sitting at ride heifgt. So if chassie is 5 MM RH I need chassie to be at 8mm while in full drop while measuring to get 3 mm.

Hope this helps some...
what kind of tire? I'm pretty sure that tire compound could make a difference...right?
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:09 AM
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I have ran that set up with..Jaco greens,RP30,Sorex 36 and most recent Sweep 36.. Always been a easy car to drive for me...
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Old 06-03-2008, 11:09 AM
  #7256  
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i'm getting ready to run brushless in my type R and i was wondering spur gear are most of you running with a 13.5, i see a lot of different combos but what would be the best one.
also have any of you tryed running a 17.5 in the car?
what spur and pinion combo are you useing?
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Old 06-03-2008, 11:42 AM
  #7257  
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Originally Posted by metalracer2
i'm getting ready to run brushless in my type R and i was wondering spur gear are most of you running with a 13.5, i see a lot of different combos but what would be the best one.
also have any of you tryed running a 17.5 in the car?
what spur and pinion combo are you useing?
Get the prs adapter so you have more options, but a 118 spur should get you in the right range, most get a 108 if running the prs adapter.
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Old 06-03-2008, 11:46 AM
  #7258  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
Get the prs adapter so you have more options, but a 118 spur should get you in the right range, most get a 108 if running the prs adapter.
yeah i have the prs adapter. i got it a wile ago knowing i would switch to brushless some day
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:08 PM
  #7259  
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
Get the prs adapter so you have more options, but a 118 spur should get you in the right range, most get a 108 if running the prs adapter.
The other thing you can do is go down to 41 tooth pulleys if you have to put too large a pinion on.

I've built this spreadsheet to easily find ratios for spur/pinion and internal drives for both 41 and 42 pulleys.

It's not pretty, but it works. If you guys can give me an average diameter for jaco vs rp's vs sorex i can update this w/ the rollout calculations as well.

I submitted teh type r w/ the 41 tooth pulleys to this site which is pretty good too: http://www.gearchart.com/index.cfm?f...n=chart.create
Attached Files
File Type: zip
spurs.zip (20.3 KB, 42 views)
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:26 PM
  #7260  
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YmeBP, for some reason I can not open your file.
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