219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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05-19-2015, 01:29 PM
#871
Some of my rims work without hitting, and some do hit. And yes it is probably just the ribs on the inside of the rims hitting something.
Just thought if I could dremel something on the arm of my 410.3 instead of having to dremel the ribs on the rims, it would be easier.
Just thought if I could dremel something on the arm of my 410.3 instead of having to dremel the ribs on the rims, it would be easier.
05-19-2015, 01:40 PM
#872
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I thought less anti-squat transferred more weight to the rear thus giving more rear traction? Is that wrong? If I'm lacking rear traction due to a perceived lack of weight transfer I would want more anti-squat?
Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.
If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.
Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.
If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.
Less anti-squat (flatter arm)
• Increases rear traction off-power
• Decreases rear traction on-power
• Better on a bumpy track
More anti-squat (leaning more backwards)
• Increases rear traction during acceleration
• Decreases rear traction off-power
• Better on smooth high grip tracks
05-19-2015, 02:36 PM
#873
I thought less anti-squat transferred more weight to the rear thus giving more rear traction? Is that wrong? If I'm lacking rear traction due to a perceived lack of weight transfer I would want more anti-squat?
Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.
If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.
Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.
If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.
if you are having loose rear issues you must first re exam your upper ,lower shock mounts and hinge pin holders. Be sure they are not too tight . Lots of people make this mistake and no matter what you change it will never be good if the suspensions are bound up and can't do their job! Yes..sometimes its that simple.
05-19-2015, 03:20 PM
#874
05-19-2015, 04:24 PM
#875
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
i'm running the Alu clamping hexes off my SCT410 not sure if that might be the difference compared to the stock steel ones if that's what you have on.
05-19-2015, 06:39 PM
#876
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
I always have to look this up in the Hudy guide. According to the Hudy guide:
Less anti-squat (flatter arm)
• Increases rear traction off-power
• Decreases rear traction on-power
• Better on a bumpy track
More anti-squat (leaning more backwards)
• Increases rear traction during acceleration
• Decreases rear traction off-power
• Better on smooth high grip tracks
Less anti-squat (flatter arm)
• Increases rear traction off-power
• Decreases rear traction on-power
• Better on a bumpy track
More anti-squat (leaning more backwards)
• Increases rear traction during acceleration
• Decreases rear traction off-power
• Better on smooth high grip tracks
You are correct sir.
if you are having loose rear issues you must first re exam your upper ,lower shock mounts and hinge pin holders. Be sure they are not too tight . Lots of people make this mistake and no matter what you change it will never be good if the suspensions are bound up and can't do their job! Yes..sometimes its that simple.
if you are having loose rear issues you must first re exam your upper ,lower shock mounts and hinge pin holders. Be sure they are not too tight . Lots of people make this mistake and no matter what you change it will never be good if the suspensions are bound up and can't do their job! Yes..sometimes its that simple.
Can anyone clarify or confirm?
ETA: I checked the rear suspension and everything is moving freely.
05-19-2015, 09:46 PM
#878
05-19-2015, 10:22 PM
#879
hmmm hex area I don't have that problem but if I did I might try these or the 1mm ones
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
i'm running the Alu clamping hexes off my SCT410 not sure if that might be the difference compared to the stock steel ones if that's what you have on.
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
i'm running the Alu clamping hexes off my SCT410 not sure if that might be the difference compared to the stock steel ones if that's what you have on.
05-20-2015, 05:46 AM
#881
05-20-2015, 05:47 AM
#882
05-20-2015, 06:10 AM
#883
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
I'm using 10k in the center diff. My diff fluids are 10/10/7 currently. I thought about that as well but wasn't sure if a more 'locked down' center diff would actually cause the rear to be loose. The outdoor tracks I run on are considered medium bite.
05-20-2015, 06:40 AM
#884
On my 2nd time out with the .3 I broke the front-rear hinge pin brace. (Front and Rear outer hinge pin brace's are metal). I also bent the hinge pin as well. I'm not really sure what I hit to cause this. This is the same track/layout I had been running the V1 for many months with 0 issues. I guess it's time to upgrade the inner hinge pins now also. Had to leave before the races start 
. I left my V1 at home so could not swap parts over.
. I left my V1 at home so could not swap parts over.
05-20-2015, 06:49 AM
#885
I would try lowering the center diff weight to allow the front to pull a little more. All depends on driving style but 10/10/7 might be a little high all the way around for anything except high bite stuff.