rifraf

iTrader: (41)

has anyone noticed that using a TLR aluminum servo arm when you use the supplied nut and bolt through the the horn and servo link captured end that it has some slop? looks like the supplied screw is smaller in diameter than the hole in the captured in...Hope I didn't confuse anyone.lol.

Thanks for your help.

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

hop on ebay and buy an extra screw kit removed from a vehicle...i do that with any RC i own so if i lose anything i always have spares

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Losi-TEN-SCT...item5d3b84461f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Losi-Ten-SCT...item4d0bedc13b

http://www.ebay.com/itm/losi-scte-screws-hardware-/151033281559?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash =item232a48fc17

rifraf

iTrader: (41)

Nosir,I have all the kit screws.Looks like the supplied 3mm screw is too small for the hole in the captured in on the steering link,like the hole in the rod end may be 5mm..this area has the steering slop i am referring to..

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

First off, there are no 3MM or 5MM screws on the SCTE - it uses American standard hardware (except in the diffs).

That said, it is possible you used a ball in the steering link meant for a 5-40 screw instead of the ones that are supposed to go in the steering link which (the balls) are meant for 4-40 screws.

The balls are the same outside diameter, so it is possible to fit the wrong ball in the steering link. But then you will find that when you use the 4-40 sized ball in the place where the 5-40 sided ball was supposed to go (because you got them mixed up), that the 5-40 screw won't fit through the ball.

This is all assuming you are talking about the link that connects the servo arm to the servo saver.

rifraf

iTrader: (41)

Thanks.. I did not build this truck.I will look for the for the smaller I.D.ball..

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

I was experiencing rear looseness before. I started from box stock and put 5000 in the rear diff, put 3.5 toe in the rear and red springs on the rear. Dropped a whole half second thanks to tuning advice from hacker and casper!

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

The diff screws are 1/16". If you use a 1.5mm you will strip out the screws... Which I suspect many with this problem are doing.

Purdue Engineer

iTrader: (8)

The diff screws are 2.6m x 10m and use a 1/16 driver. Yeah, I don't understand those.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

The battery mounts use a 5-40 thread, not a 3mm thread just to be clear so for the meantime, you can use a nut and washer but its a 5-40 one. I only ever remove one thumb screw myself which is the rear ward one. I always leave the front one on.

Maybe someone mixed up some screws. There is a 3mm screw that comes with the car but it is used to hold the servo horn in place on most metal gear servos. Thats all its for. The screw going through the servo horn and ball and held in place with a nut is a 4-40 screw.

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

Does anyone have a scan of the body post hole template that's included with the high performance body?

bbond919

i can scan it when i get home........i didnt use it....but did make the mistake of not putting the tirese on before i made the holes..

the body needs to go pretty far forward to prevent tire rub when steering

SuperDaveNT

iTrader: (13)

Thats odd, you would usually go thinner in the rear to get it to lock in.

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

Thats what I initially thought too, but i gave it a try and it made a huge difference. I think the issue i had was spinning the rear tires on the initial punch out of the turns. But it calmed it down and allowed me to drive it nice and hard.

BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (40)

Stormer has pro 4 hd in stock ?:@)

XRated SCT

There's a bunch on ebay as well but I don't need one YET lol