26Likes3 racing new F1
06-04-2012, 01:24 PM
#2806
I was thinking of a dampner in the rear . I did notice even with the rear running harder springs and thick oil , the car has alot of roll even with a sway bar attached .
FNR riDER; might want to run 1 or 2 droop in the rear , sounds like the rear inside tire is getting light .also try running diffrent tires in the rear . the PIT rib tires are more suited for colder temps out side . butt seem to be good with a thin insert ...
FNR riDER; might want to run 1 or 2 droop in the rear , sounds like the rear inside tire is getting light .also try running diffrent tires in the rear . the PIT rib tires are more suited for colder temps out side . butt seem to be good with a thin insert ...
06-04-2012, 01:38 PM
#2807
great thread, I recently built an FGX and after reading Mantisworx's tips along with help from Mr Shox @ the HF1 forum (which led me here) it seems I need to swap oil between my diff + shocks as well make a few more adjustments before I take my FGX out for her maiden race on the 17th.
Thanks for all the tips and advice everyone!
Thanks for all the tips and advice everyone!
06-04-2012, 02:09 PM
#2808
I was thinking of a dampner in the rear . I did notice even with the rear running harder springs and thick oil , the car has alot of roll even with a sway bar attached .
FNR riDER; might want to run 1 or 2 droop in the rear , sounds like the rear inside tire is getting light .also try running diffrent tires in the rear . the PIT rib tires are more suited for colder temps out side . butt seem to be good with a thin insert ...
FNR riDER; might want to run 1 or 2 droop in the rear , sounds like the rear inside tire is getting light .also try running diffrent tires in the rear . the PIT rib tires are more suited for colder temps out side . butt seem to be good with a thin insert ...
also the left rear tire was folding over, wear patter showed outside left showed wear pattern on outside 3 ribs, no wear at all on 4th rib.
I will pick up spring set and run next harder spring. Also I may try next harder swaybar, and running the rear tire with full insert, to prevent tire rollling over.
06-04-2012, 02:27 PM
#2809
OK, after a good week of R+D with the FGX/IFS i have come to the conclusion that the drivetrain is just not efficient enough to keep with the DD cars on the big track. a few months ago our league did not allow for motor timing so it kept the playing field level but new rules have allowed timing and the DD cars on our 230' straight just have acceleration that i can not keep up with, on the infield the FGX is poetry in motion but on turn exits it just lacks the acceleration and i am about 3 tenths off pace and it gets worse as grip comes up. Top speed is good it just takes the FGX longer to get there. So this morning i sourced and figured out a belt setup to eliminate the outside spur gear but still retain the stock dif/pinion for now. This should free up some of the drivetrain loss and also make the car quiet! parts should arrive Wed and i will still need to modify some of it to fit but its a pretty easy conversion. FDR will be 2.45 but can drop up to 3t smaller if need be. The car handled superb and on an unprepared track it was planted and predictable, i ended up winning with my 104X1 in the main but it was a HANDFULL, very hard to drive but very fast laptimes so i had no choice. My main competition is quick and after a ten minute main we finished less than 2 seconds apart and that was only because he got held up with lap traffic. before that happened we were 3 tenths apart the entire race!
FYI just weighed my 104x1 it is 1112g in race trim, FGX is 1182 with 35g nose weight and 1/2 oz of corner balance!
If you make the 104x1 the same weight as your FGX, is it still faster? I'm just curious if it is weight, the IRS, or drivetrain drag that is making the difference in laptimes.
Thanks.
Joel
06-04-2012, 02:36 PM
#2810
60g isnt going to make that much of a difference, especially when you are already rolling and the FGX has faster corner speed. its simply the gearbox which basically has 3 gear reductions where as a DD car has only 1 and its 64p at that! I have another 104 that weighs 1150 and it still out accelerates the FGX. This is only noticeable on the large fast tracks, most will not even notice.
06-04-2012, 05:19 PM
#2812
Toycardriver : make sure to get fast gear set . make sure to build the gear diff so there is no binding . should be smooth . take all the shocks apart and de burr the o ring spacers , also get a spring set . youll need stiffer springs in the rear ...
rccartips . your right about the drivetrain .. Ive got mine as smooth as possible. Its just not going to beat dd drive train ..
rccartips . your right about the drivetrain .. Ive got mine as smooth as possible. Its just not going to beat dd drive train ..
06-04-2012, 05:22 PM
#2813
60g isnt going to make that much of a difference, especially when you are already rolling and the FGX has faster corner speed. its simply the gearbox which basically has 3 gear reductions where as a DD car has only 1 and its 64p at that! I have another 104 that weighs 1150 and it still out accelerates the FGX. This is only noticeable on the large fast tracks, most will not even notice.
Just to share, our medium sized asphalt track, around 120 ft straight. Medium grip, medium sized corners.
F104 ~ 16.4 seconds
F104 + 30grms ~ 16.9 seconds
Hope when you are bored you can test your f104x at 1112gm vs 1182gm, just out of curiosity.
I will give my FGX a maiden run this weekend against our usual F103, F104s. Hope it can keep up.
06-04-2012, 05:26 PM
#2814
Toycardriver : make sure to get fast gear set . make sure to build the gear diff so there is no binding . should be smooth . take all the shocks apart and de burr the o ring spacers , also get a spring set . youll need stiffer springs in the rear ...
rccartips . your right about the drivetrain .. Ive got mine as smooth as possible. Its just not going to beat dd drive train ..
rccartips . your right about the drivetrain .. Ive got mine as smooth as possible. Its just not going to beat dd drive train ..
06-04-2012, 05:37 PM
#2815
It it me or is the FGX gear diff, on the screw side, totally out of round? First is the part where the bearing mounts, visually I can see the plastic is not moulded round. Then the outdrive itself wobble horribly (on the screw side of the diff) and I cannot fix it as it is a moulding issue on the diff.
Spent over 2 hours building the diff. The gears mesh well with the countergear, but the outdrive wobble definitely wastes a lot of efficiency.
Spent over 2 hours building the diff. The gears mesh well with the countergear, but the outdrive wobble definitely wastes a lot of efficiency.
06-04-2012, 06:54 PM
#2816
If all else fails, get a lighter battery pack than the 310gram packs that most seem to favor... The Tp3300-2spr65d weighs about 210grams, and will make the fgx 40grams lighter instead of 60grams overweight......
06-04-2012, 09:54 PM
#2818
The only problem for me with lighter batteries is they have less power and are slower in laptimes (per my tests). The lighterweight does not overcome the weaker power (in my situation, track, car, etc). I will probably need to make the FGX chassis itself lighter.
06-05-2012, 08:25 AM
#2820
Tech Regular
A little late in the game, but finally got my hands on an FGX. Here's my build experience and review.
During the build process I honestly started to dislike the kit. But after finally finishing the kit, it is beautiful. I guess it is like giving birth, the process is painful, but the result is worth it. Thumbs up 3Racing for making the FGX.
During the build process I honestly started to dislike the kit. But after finally finishing the kit, it is beautiful. I guess it is like giving birth, the process is painful, but the result is worth it. Thumbs up 3Racing for making the FGX.