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Old 06-06-2007, 09:39 AM
  #8641  
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i just want to say, after complaining about my stuff, i got it all worked out yesterday with the help of billy

motor runs grate! and he set up the car ALOT different then i had it, its close to dilaed now!
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Old 06-06-2007, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by mangoman
Are you talking about in the actual cross joints of the universals or where the universal sits in the cups? The cross joints in my car get so badly worn because i hate pulling them apart and never clean them DoH!
That's exactly the location! Clean them out with motor spray, then put in a few drops and let it dry
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Old 06-06-2007, 10:30 AM
  #8643  
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does anybody know the cyclone set ups from the reedy race?
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Old 06-06-2007, 11:40 AM
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here it is.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-p1030112.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-p1030113.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-p1030114.jpg  
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Old 06-06-2007, 12:55 PM
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Default Diff Screw and Nut

I know that this has been addressed in the forum on pages back but I didn't want to have to go look. Here is my situation:

Someone tell me what the hell is the issue with the diff screws and Nuts!!!!

since I have had this car I have broken 5 diffs screws and nuts and mind you, you are talking about someone who is very experienced with RC for years now. In the past when I had a TC3 and even back to my Pro2 days, I NEVER broke a diff screw and since I have had this car, I have broken about 5. i don't over tighten my diff at all but they continue to break.

Can anyone suggest to me maybe another diff screw an nut (maybe even another manafacturer) that I can put in my car that will not break just because the diff is a "little" tight?!!!

This is the only thing that frustrates me about my car and I need help or suggestions.
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Old 06-06-2007, 12:58 PM
  #8646  
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Originally Posted by ICEMAN
Elboogie-Scotty and Boomer dont Check for width, as long as your wheel dont stick out the side of the body like a REDNECK 78' Camaro you will be GOOD. I ran at IIC last year and width was not a issue, weight, wing height and ride heighwas it you can shave your wheels down on the tire truer, i do it every year at the Snowbird's.

Thanks Ice. This will be my first IIC (that's a shame because I live in Vegas) and I wanted to make sure of the requirements etc. I thank you for the info and I will let the guys at our track know.
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Old 06-06-2007, 01:40 PM
  #8647  
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Originally Posted by Elboogie
I know that this has been addressed in the forum on pages back but I didn't want to have to go look. Here is my situation:

Someone tell me what the hell is the issue with the diff screws and Nuts!!!!

since I have had this car I have broken 5 diffs screws and nuts and mind you, you are talking about someone who is very experienced with RC for years now. In the past when I had a TC3 and even back to my Pro2 days, I NEVER broke a diff screw and since I have had this car, I have broken about 5. i don't over tighten my diff at all but they continue to break.

Can anyone suggest to me maybe another diff screw an nut (maybe even another manafacturer) that I can put in my car that will not break just because the diff is a "little" tight?!!!

This is the only thing that frustrates me about my car and I need help or suggestions.
Drill out the holes in your diff halves and use the Team Associated diff screw and nut. You will be much happier with this setup.
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Old 06-06-2007, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Elboogie
I know that this has been addressed in the forum on pages back but I didn't want to have to go look. Here is my situation:

Someone tell me what the hell is the issue with the diff screws and Nuts!!!!

since I have had this car I have broken 5 diffs screws and nuts and mind you, you are talking about someone who is very experienced with RC for years now. In the past when I had a TC3 and even back to my Pro2 days, I NEVER broke a diff screw and since I have had this car, I have broken about 5. i don't over tighten my diff at all but they continue to break.

Can anyone suggest to me maybe another diff screw an nut (maybe even another manafacturer) that I can put in my car that will not break just because the diff is a "little" tight?!!!

This is the only thing that frustrates me about my car and I need help or suggestions.
After i build a fresh diff i set it up to it slips with medium ish pressure, it then gets run in practice or run it in on the pit table, they really do tighten up and become smoother as the excess grease finds its way out. Also drill the hole in the halves where the screw goes through to 2.5mm as it looks like when the screw flexes under stress it hits the inside of the diff half when its the stock hole. Only thing i have different in the diff is ceramic diff balls. the screw normally breaks when the diff is too tight before it is run in, i have seen AE screws break at the head and some HB screws break at the thread. Just seems to be technique.
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Old 06-06-2007, 01:43 PM
  #8649  
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Ok Elboogie, for me is the same, i drilled the holes to 2.5mm with the original screw, and work well, but broken, i put a titanium screw, not broken but loosen, is i tight the differential, broken screw.
Well, i put a ceramics balls, titanium screw, and the plastic outdrives (diff cup joint black) and seems the best solution, for me, not loosen.
But i find, the least and not the last solution , i put a Xray diff, with a xray drive shaft, with blades, and never more i broke a diff and loose diff.
In pages back, is there a pics for a make a spur diff, you need a xray 34T diff spur and HB 39T, cut and paste .
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Old 06-06-2007, 04:52 PM
  #8650  
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i got a moore speed and havent broken one diff screw, my diff is somewhat tight, the pulley wont slip, its tightened a turn, turn and a half i think past that..... havent broke one with a mamba max in it, 19 turn, and my stock motor, and lots of crashes..... and im new to this car, well not really now, but still, idk how those things break
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Old 06-06-2007, 05:56 PM
  #8651  
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Hi.

I need some practical information about the efect on leaving the 1,5mm shims under the blocks.. like in the standard Moore speed setup-

In this standard setup they recomend to use the 3degrees block at the rear and the 2,5 degree at the front.
The 3degrees block at the rear creating stanility, but why the 2.2 dregreeat the front .
thanks for any support

Pedro

PS: I tought that we keepjo
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Old 06-06-2007, 06:15 PM
  #8652  
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I broke 4 diff screws till I stuck an additional washer under the diff nut. This washer is the same washer that is under the thrust spring (on the other side of the diff).

I think its 6x3x0.5mm, but will check those dimensions tonight as I know how "correct" some of you like to be.....
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Old 06-06-2007, 07:54 PM
  #8653  
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Originally Posted by jaz
Drill out the holes in your diff halves and use the Team Associated diff screw and nut. You will be much happier with this setup.
I think that I will try that because someone else mentioned that. Thanks for the input everyone, I know that the information will help.
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Old 06-06-2007, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 2-Bad
I broke 4 diff screws till I stuck an additional washer under the diff nut. This washer is the same washer that is under the thrust spring (on the other side of the diff).

I think its 6x3x0.5mm, but will check those dimensions tonight as I know how "correct" some of you like to be.....
thanks for the info I will try that as well. that is the reason why I post my problems here because I know that the answers you get are helpful
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Old 06-07-2007, 02:15 AM
  #8655  
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Hello,

For the diff :

Use the moore screw.
Drill out the holes in the two diff halves (2.5 mm)
Use the corally diff washers instead of the standard spring (The spring is the real problem).
Put black grease on the entire screw

You can read this article (Sorry in french):

http://www.overrc.com/techniques/reg...iescyclone.htm
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