Ofna DM-1 Spec Electric 1/8 Gt OnRoad
#316
Tech Initiate
Hey guys. I'm just getting into the 1/8 on-road scene with a 1/7 DM1. Car seems really well put together. I'm currently building a plexiglass battery tray as I haven't been able to find one that might even remotely fit this chassis. I'll prob build a second version using CF, but the plexi's all I had for now. Looks like the battery is floating on the chassis with this stuff.
Can anyone tell me if they got rid of the play in the suspension and how did you do it. There seems to be quite a bit of back n forth in the arms, and slop in the cantilever pivots.
Thanks in advance guys.
Can anyone tell me if they got rid of the play in the suspension and how did you do it. There seems to be quite a bit of back n forth in the arms, and slop in the cantilever pivots.
Thanks in advance guys.
#317
Tech Elite
iTrader: (40)
Hey guys. I'm just getting into the 1/8 on-road scene with a 1/7 DM1. Car seems really well put together. I'm currently building a plexiglass battery tray as I haven't been able to find one that might even remotely fit this chassis. I'll prob build a second version using CF, but the plexi's all I had for now. Looks like the battery is floating on the chassis with this stuff.
Can anyone tell me if they got rid of the play in the suspension and how did you do it. There seems to be quite a bit of back n forth in the arms, and slop in the cantilever pivots.
Thanks in advance guys.
Can anyone tell me if they got rid of the play in the suspension and how did you do it. There seems to be quite a bit of back n forth in the arms, and slop in the cantilever pivots.
Thanks in advance guys.
Are you running the laydown shocks? My guess is that you are. Best change you can make is to go to stand up shocks. This gets rid of a lot of moving parts which equal slop. Then check you tire rod ends for play and replace if needed. Make sure the out drives are shimmed correctly as well as the play in the upper and lower pivot shafts. You can either get new arms if there is too much play, are as I have found there is play with the factory parts. So I get drill blanks (smooth steel with many size options in small increments) and use them. The upper are is normally the one that has some play.
If you need help with parts, PM and I can get you the stuff including the carbon fiber shock tower. The same tower will work inthe rear, with a set of front shocks that will reduce your weight and lower the center of gravity, which should help stabalize the car as well.
Mark
#318
I race the nitro 1/8 scale version, so familar with the suspension.
Are you running the laydown shocks? My guess is that you are. Best change you can make is to go to stand up shocks. This gets rid of a lot of moving parts which equal slop. Then check you tire rod ends for play and replace if needed. Make sure the out drives are shimmed correctly as well as the play in the upper and lower pivot shafts. You can either get new arms if there is too much play, are as I have found there is play with the factory parts. So I get drill blanks (smooth steel with many size options in small increments) and use them. The upper are is normally the one that has some play.
If you need help with parts, PM and I can get you the stuff including the carbon fiber shock tower. The same tower will work inthe rear, with a set of front shocks that will reduce your weight and lower the center of gravity, which should help stabalize the car as well.
Mark
Are you running the laydown shocks? My guess is that you are. Best change you can make is to go to stand up shocks. This gets rid of a lot of moving parts which equal slop. Then check you tire rod ends for play and replace if needed. Make sure the out drives are shimmed correctly as well as the play in the upper and lower pivot shafts. You can either get new arms if there is too much play, are as I have found there is play with the factory parts. So I get drill blanks (smooth steel with many size options in small increments) and use them. The upper are is normally the one that has some play.
If you need help with parts, PM and I can get you the stuff including the carbon fiber shock tower. The same tower will work inthe rear, with a set of front shocks that will reduce your weight and lower the center of gravity, which should help stabalize the car as well.
Mark
#319
Tech Elite
iTrader: (40)
So your saying he could convert the front suspension to stand up shocks? if so i'd like to know how. I'm not liking that i cant get the ride hight to come up more on mine the chassis slaps the ground a lot even after changing springs and oil. can you pm me the parts i would need? please ..and thanks
Parts would be carbon shock tower, short DM-1 Spec nitro shocks and springs (black, red, white, yellow). You can get all the OFNA parts from IGT hobbies, shock towers from Darksidems.com, and I have a larger foam bumper out of better foam. It is a little thinner than the stock one, but it really works.
Mark
#321
#322
Tech Initiate
question, thinking bout picking this car up today and i'm wondering if you can put dual 3s traxxas batteries on this big boy.
I'm gonna use the electronics from my erbe to make this a 100mph car; but i noticed the instruction manual states the holder is for a 7.4 lipo hard case.
there is the will is there a way?
I'm gonna use the electronics from my erbe to make this a 100mph car; but i noticed the instruction manual states the holder is for a 7.4 lipo hard case.
there is the will is there a way?
#323
question, thinking bout picking this car up today and i'm wondering if you can put dual 3s traxxas batteries on this big boy.
I'm gonna use the electronics from my erbe to make this a 100mph car; but i noticed the instruction manual states the holder is for a 7.4 lipo hard case.
there is the will is there a way?
I'm gonna use the electronics from my erbe to make this a 100mph car; but i noticed the instruction manual states the holder is for a 7.4 lipo hard case.
there is the will is there a way?
#324
The Ipanema Top Speed Club contest starts September 1st.
We’re looking to give back to the Top Speed R/C community for your incredible accomplishments.
Feel free to visit our website for full event rules, how to enter and win.
Good luck everyone and thank you all very much!
We’re looking to give back to the Top Speed R/C community for your incredible accomplishments.
Feel free to visit our website for full event rules, how to enter and win.
Good luck everyone and thank you all very much!
#325
Tech Initiate
Thanks Grenade. I don't have it running yet. Just got my motor mount from RC Monster, perfect fit and looks great! Got the single speed conversion too, but I need the dm1 spec e shaft for it to work I think. Thanks Mike, good guy there at RC Monster. Great customer service.
I'll play with the laydown suspension for a bit, if I don't like it, then maybe I'll switch over.
Is anyone out there racing these things and not just doing speed runs? I'd like a few setup tips on gearing for the 2spd and single speed. Track is kinda tight with a short straight and I'm thinking to use a Tekin 1700kV motor, more torque for the additional weight of the 1/7, with an RX8 on 6S. Yes, the occasional speed run will happen.
I'll play with the laydown suspension for a bit, if I don't like it, then maybe I'll switch over.
Is anyone out there racing these things and not just doing speed runs? I'd like a few setup tips on gearing for the 2spd and single speed. Track is kinda tight with a short straight and I'm thinking to use a Tekin 1700kV motor, more torque for the additional weight of the 1/7, with an RX8 on 6S. Yes, the occasional speed run will happen.
I race the nitro 1/8 scale version, so familar with the suspension.
Are you running the laydown shocks? My guess is that you are. Best change you can make is to go to stand up shocks. This gets rid of a lot of moving parts which equal slop. Then check you tire rod ends for play and replace if needed. Make sure the out drives are shimmed correctly as well as the play in the upper and lower pivot shafts. You can either get new arms if there is too much play, are as I have found there is play with the factory parts. So I get drill blanks (smooth steel with many size options in small increments) and use them. The upper are is normally the one that has some play.
If you need help with parts, PM and I can get you the stuff including the carbon fiber shock tower. The same tower will work inthe rear, with a set of front shocks that will reduce your weight and lower the center of gravity, which should help stabalize the car as well.
Mark
Are you running the laydown shocks? My guess is that you are. Best change you can make is to go to stand up shocks. This gets rid of a lot of moving parts which equal slop. Then check you tire rod ends for play and replace if needed. Make sure the out drives are shimmed correctly as well as the play in the upper and lower pivot shafts. You can either get new arms if there is too much play, are as I have found there is play with the factory parts. So I get drill blanks (smooth steel with many size options in small increments) and use them. The upper are is normally the one that has some play.
If you need help with parts, PM and I can get you the stuff including the carbon fiber shock tower. The same tower will work inthe rear, with a set of front shocks that will reduce your weight and lower the center of gravity, which should help stabalize the car as well.
Mark
#326
#327
Tech Rookie
dm 1 gear holder
Steve i will be the first to buy your chassis for the e! Please design it to allow the motor mount to slide further out to allow for 25t or higher i big you lol. I already moded the gear holder for the 45 spur. I think the 2speed gear holder will solve the problem. But even with the smaller spur i had to cut into the chassis to allow the mount to slide over more. Now its working, cantt see why ofna didn't do that from the factory. Please let me know when you have the chassis i am ready to buy. Thanks Steve!
#329
What are you going to do with it? Race, speed runs or bash?