T-Hawk

iTrader: (2)

We also run dual brakes (Serpent Pro) on our cars. If you run them hard, in racing conditions, you will start losing gears. High grip tracks will become a problem. Then also wait when your brake pad want to melt into the upright.

D Starks

The 150cc tank is part# 41466 it includes the posts for installation. It is a direct bolt-in.

Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

Ryan - do you happen to have the part #'s for the dual brake mod?

T-Hawk

iTrader: (2)

You need to get the brake arm and shaft plus the plastic piece that holds it on. Serpent pro brakes require some machining

technazi

Hmm... run the car pretty hard for the past 4 months with a dual brake and never stripped a gear. That includes multiple 20-30 minute mains and a 45 minute main this past weekend. I guess I could see other people needing/wanting aluminum middle supports, but never needed them myself.

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

There were three X3 cars in the A-Main at the Novarossi race in LA. Troy and Craig were fast, Steve bumped from the B. I qualified 10th but broke in the B. Looks like to little clearance on the brakes over heated the two speed mount and the lost the gears. As Craig said, my car was the only one with issues, so just keep room on the brake pads and you should be good.

I am running the dual brake set up with the option pads and disks. I was a full second faster from this March for fast lap, but still need another based on how fast the racers were this year. Looking to try the new body, and another few items before the next Heart of America race in two weeks........

Jimmy Lauri

iTrader: (2)

Its time for me to mount and glue my kit wheels..foams and tires. Each tire comes with two widths of foams..each made to cut to length. There is a wide foam and a narrow foam. I have never worked with 1/8 on road gt wheel and tires ever. Before I do something foolish...can you guys give me a walk through on these? A real good and correct way of doing the job. Thanks in advance!!!! P.S....The kit instructions are extremely vague on this process!

Jimmy Lauri

iTrader: (2)

Can anybody help me out on the process...like what glue to use to adhere the foams together or? The best way of doing the job...all welcome input on this cuz I need help!!!

C@T

Check them if they are belted or not.

If not, yust throw them in the next garbitch can.

No further instructions needed.

D Starks

It will take a good contact cement to glue the strips. There used to be a brand MRC but I don't think they are around anymore. Check your local hardware store for a good contact cement. Using CA will create a hard seam and you will have a hard spot under the tire. Possibly the Sweep inserts may work. The Sweep inserts are a one piece design. Use CA to glue the tire to the wheel and of course clean tire and wheel before gluing with either brake clean or motor spray.

Jimmy Lauri

iTrader: (2)

Thank you very much!

blankenj99

Mine were also too long so they have to be cut to fit before glueing the ends together...

Jimmy Lauri

iTrader: (2)

Last time I mess with this style ever again! They came out excellent but what a pain in the arse!! My hands are way to big to try that again! From know on its Sweep white inserts or pre-mounts! Thanks D starks on the heads up with the contact cement. I used Dap..already had it on the shelf...worked fantastic. Blankenj99....yep I had to cut each strip to make work also. Thanks you guys for responding! I thought that more people would have responded..oh well. Thanks again!! Jimmy

blankenj99

if you look back a few pages there was a good how-to about tires and taping and mounting by Grenade10. I couldn't manage it with my tires and went with just the stock setup too, but next set will at least have one piece inserts or will be premounted too

My mistake that info was on the electric X3gt thread....

Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

Just raced my X3 today and it was a last, the force 28 has lots of power and is pretty smooth.

Anyways, the issues I had today were lack of low speed turning (pushing) I assume this is to the stock caster blocks? Maybe switching to the smaller degree would help this?

The backend liked to get loose, grant it the track I ran on today did not have a great deal of traction but I still feel I need to do some work to the car to help—any ideas are welcome? Thinking maybe to lighten up on the rear diff fluid but the manual says it has 5k in the rear which is already somewhat light.