TT-01 Forum
#1846
I've got a CC 5700 in my TT01, 22/61 gearing.
I did add one shim to each pinion (to tighten up the gear mesh)
Has handled this power fine.
I did manage to break an aftermarket Alum CVD....so I changed that out to a steel version....stock dog bones hold up fine, but lots of "skipping" when you turn at high speeds. CVDs on the front makes things a lot smoother.
On any high rpm motor, upgrade the center shaft, it will vibrate!
I did add one shim to each pinion (to tighten up the gear mesh)
Has handled this power fine.
I did manage to break an aftermarket Alum CVD....so I changed that out to a steel version....stock dog bones hold up fine, but lots of "skipping" when you turn at high speeds. CVDs on the front makes things a lot smoother.
On any high rpm motor, upgrade the center shaft, it will vibrate!
#1847
Also, go with 12mm screws to secure the motor mount cover/clamp.
A thin piece of foam tape between the cover and motor mount also gets gid of the slop...(using the metal mount, and a heatsink)
Will upload pics later......when I get around to it.............
A thin piece of foam tape between the cover and motor mount also gets gid of the slop...(using the metal mount, and a heatsink)
Will upload pics later......when I get around to it.............
#1848
guys notice on redrc where over in europe they just had a 24hr race with TT01s!!! complete with rain and light kits onboard. hell 1 guy even had his high beams able to flash to warn other drivers. 24hrs on a 540 johnson thru day and night, thru dry and rain. fantastic.
http://www.kabeleins.de/auto/videos/...-rennen_18781/
(video is in german naturally, but info is on redrc.net)
R
http://www.kabeleins.de/auto/videos/...-rennen_18781/
(video is in german naturally, but info is on redrc.net)
R
#1849
Tech Initiate
amazing.
should be using other bodies than the 911.
should be using other bodies than the 911.
#1851
#1852
Tamiya TT-01R with custom F360GT body
This is not a new build (actually built in 2006) however, this is the first time that I have photographed it. It has TRF shocks, Hardcore Racing aluminum wheels, aluminum racing steering, carbon fiber print rear wing, and aluminum motor mount.
#1853
I just picked up a TT01 for some fun outside my house. Got it RTR with an extra set of drift tires for $60 so I'm happy. Not planning to race it just wanted to get drifting practice as I've been dying to try it. Only thing I'm probably going to upgrade it the drive shaft as it's really flimsy and flexible to maybe put a new motor it.
Speaking of motors, any one have any cheap suggestions just to get a bit more punch out of the car? I'm not really looking to spend over $100 total
Speaking of motors, any one have any cheap suggestions just to get a bit more punch out of the car? I'm not really looking to spend over $100 total
#1854
#1855
Tech Rookie
hey guys, I got a tt-01 for an AWESOME deal. It has a 27 turn brushed motor, which i really dislike after having a mamba max 6900 kv on my electric t4. It has a bunch of batteries, but half of them dont work and i am not trying to buy another ni-mh battery. So i am going brushless. HELP ME ON WHICH BRUSHLESS/esc combo MOTOR TO PICK.
The reason im asking is because so far i've been reading this thread and most of you are racing. I will be drifting for my own pleasure without competing.
I do not want any ezrun or sidewinders. I am trying to figure out what kv motor to pick so that my car doesnt just do donuts. I want to have drift speed. Kinda leaning toward mamba or novak but novak is more expensive.
Also, what gearing should i do with what motor?
thanks to anyone that helps
The reason im asking is because so far i've been reading this thread and most of you are racing. I will be drifting for my own pleasure without competing.
I do not want any ezrun or sidewinders. I am trying to figure out what kv motor to pick so that my car doesnt just do donuts. I want to have drift speed. Kinda leaning toward mamba or novak but novak is more expensive.
Also, what gearing should i do with what motor?
thanks to anyone that helps
Last edited by olegrc; 07-14-2010 at 06:02 PM. Reason: more info
#1856
Tech Rookie
oh and one more thing.
Today i drifted my brother's hpi sprint 2 with a mamba max 5700 kv motor that was programmed to run a bit slower.
It DID NOT spin out AT ALL. I was going full throttle the whole time and it drifted any corner or anything i wanted perfectly.
ANYWAY, after his sprint 2, I notice that my tt-01(basic package) spins out like crazy on pretty much anything. Anyone else have spinning out issues? Somebody please help me with this. Not sure what to do
Today i drifted my brother's hpi sprint 2 with a mamba max 5700 kv motor that was programmed to run a bit slower.
It DID NOT spin out AT ALL. I was going full throttle the whole time and it drifted any corner or anything i wanted perfectly.
ANYWAY, after his sprint 2, I notice that my tt-01(basic package) spins out like crazy on pretty much anything. Anyone else have spinning out issues? Somebody please help me with this. Not sure what to do
#1857
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
So far, in several weeks of practice and Spec class racing, I have broken 1 front body mount [B13] and 2 axle carrier/steering knuckles [A7]. I am building an impressive set of A & B bag parts, most of which will never be needed. Long term, the solution is to stay off the boards, , and I am doing much better than when I started.
I think I have found a source for just the body mounts but the A7 steering knuckle seems only to be found in the A bag. I cannot substitute any after-market hop-ups according to Spec rules, which are quite strict.
The A7 part has two holes. The outer one is for the steering arm. The empty, inner hole is where the breakages seems to occur. Has anyone had any luck with filling that hole to strengthen it and minimize breakage? If so, do you use a screw? or ??
Alternatively, I may switch to using the inner hole for the steering arm, if I don't lose too much steering. Has anyone tried this?
I think I have found a source for just the body mounts but the A7 steering knuckle seems only to be found in the A bag. I cannot substitute any after-market hop-ups according to Spec rules, which are quite strict.
The A7 part has two holes. The outer one is for the steering arm. The empty, inner hole is where the breakages seems to occur. Has anyone had any luck with filling that hole to strengthen it and minimize breakage? If so, do you use a screw? or ??
Alternatively, I may switch to using the inner hole for the steering arm, if I don't lose too much steering. Has anyone tried this?
#1858
So far, in several weeks of practice and Spec class racing, I have broken 1 front body mount [B13] and 2 axle carrier/steering knuckles [A7]. I am building an impressive set of A & B bag parts, most of which will never be needed. Long term, the solution is to stay off the boards, , and I am doing much better than when I started.
I think I have found a source for just the body mounts but the A7 steering knuckle seems only to be found in the A bag. I cannot substitute any after-market hop-ups according to Spec rules, which are quite strict.
The A7 part has two holes. The outer one is for the steering arm. The empty, inner hole is where the breakages seems to occur. Has anyone had any luck with filling that hole to strengthen it and minimize breakage? If so, do you use a screw? or ??
Alternatively, I may switch to using the inner hole for the steering arm, if I don't lose too much steering. Has anyone tried this?
I think I have found a source for just the body mounts but the A7 steering knuckle seems only to be found in the A bag. I cannot substitute any after-market hop-ups according to Spec rules, which are quite strict.
The A7 part has two holes. The outer one is for the steering arm. The empty, inner hole is where the breakages seems to occur. Has anyone had any luck with filling that hole to strengthen it and minimize breakage? If so, do you use a screw? or ??
Alternatively, I may switch to using the inner hole for the steering arm, if I don't lose too much steering. Has anyone tried this?
1. Use a Kimbrough servo saver. I'm not much of a fan of the Tamiya ones.
2. If your rules allow it, replace the steering links (tie rods) with ball cups and turnbuckles. Install ball studs where the shoulder screws go through the kit tie rods. When the suspension on the TT-01 is fully compressed, the stock ones bind up which may be contributing to the breakage you are experiencing. In fact, they bind up so much that they limit the suspension travel a bunch. This simple mod will get rid of a lot of the front end bounce as well.
3. This may not help with the breakage problem but we are running CVA Super Mini Shocks with short touring car springs. This lowers the ride height to a respectable level. These 3 things take the TT-01 from a backyard basher to a respectable carpet racer that is a blast to run.
Good luck and please share your racing experiences with us.
What are your class rules?
#1859
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Woodsy3b:
the rules are in an attachment to this posting:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/6843073-post10656.html
the whole thread for the Coliseum is at:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/racing-f...ytown-usa.html
To use the TT01E in this class, you have to remove some of the parts and replace them with parts from the base TT01 [e.g., shock mounts, upgraded steering]
I already have the allowed change to add turnbuckles to the front end. I can't remember if it has ball & socket attachment or not. I'll check.
I am planning on adding the TRF Mini shocks as soon as I can. I was planning to put them on my Mini Cooper first but the TT01 will get priority since I race it.
I don't think I can change the servo saver but I'll check at the next race.
the rules are in an attachment to this posting:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/6843073-post10656.html
the whole thread for the Coliseum is at:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/racing-f...ytown-usa.html
To use the TT01E in this class, you have to remove some of the parts and replace them with parts from the base TT01 [e.g., shock mounts, upgraded steering]
I already have the allowed change to add turnbuckles to the front end. I can't remember if it has ball & socket attachment or not. I'll check.
I am planning on adding the TRF Mini shocks as soon as I can. I was planning to put them on my Mini Cooper first but the TT01 will get priority since I race it.
I don't think I can change the servo saver but I'll check at the next race.
Last edited by bencason; 07-19-2010 at 10:20 AM. Reason: TT01e info added.
#1860
Interesting rules. Very similar to what we are going to do with the following exceptions:
1. Our spec tire is the one that comes in the kit (50454)
2. Silver can motors. May have to do the hand out thing if folks don't play fair. No motor cooling devices.
3. TEU-101BK speed controller (kit supplied)
4. Spec LiPo stick pack battery (4000ma, 20c)
5. 21t pinion with stock spur.
6. Any TT-01 or TT-01E. TT-01s may be modified in the areas that the E was "enhanced."
We have done a lot of testing with TT-01 and TT-01E and can't really see a difference. We are using the CVA Super Mini shocks on these and our Mini Coopers. On these chassis, they seem to work just as well as the high dollar TRF shocks and cost a bunch less.
We are going to try and do a few night races as well. Lights down low and LED head lights and tail lights. Not sure how well this is going to work but it should be fun finding out. There is also talk of doing some endurance racing.
Do you know of a way to check the RPM of the motors in case we need to go down that road?
1. Our spec tire is the one that comes in the kit (50454)
2. Silver can motors. May have to do the hand out thing if folks don't play fair. No motor cooling devices.
3. TEU-101BK speed controller (kit supplied)
4. Spec LiPo stick pack battery (4000ma, 20c)
5. 21t pinion with stock spur.
6. Any TT-01 or TT-01E. TT-01s may be modified in the areas that the E was "enhanced."
We have done a lot of testing with TT-01 and TT-01E and can't really see a difference. We are using the CVA Super Mini shocks on these and our Mini Coopers. On these chassis, they seem to work just as well as the high dollar TRF shocks and cost a bunch less.
We are going to try and do a few night races as well. Lights down low and LED head lights and tail lights. Not sure how well this is going to work but it should be fun finding out. There is also talk of doing some endurance racing.
Do you know of a way to check the RPM of the motors in case we need to go down that road?