6LikesTeam Durango DEST210R thread
01-10-2017, 08:57 PM
#1307
Tech Addict
RC Planet
HobbyZone
Yellow seem to be easier to find than white. But whites are out there.
Amazon has white wheels from no less than four different vendors alone.
Ebay has them from 13 different shops.
Don't forget, DE Racing makes really nice aftermarket wheels as well.
Where exactly did you try to find them?
**Dont scare me like that man! I'm thinking "shoot, I've only got a couple sets left, and this guy says he's having trouble finding wheels, maybe they're all gone".
With the Durango series, they didn't use 14/15 wheel hexes just to be aholes. The bigger hex is due to the requirement for the hex to be thinner, due to the max width of the arms.
Anyway, there's a bazillion wheels out there. Black, white and yellow.
01-19-2017, 05:36 PM
#1308
Tech Addict
Alright, first run of my new DEST210 was completed today. It's always an exciting time when you take a used car, completely strip it down to kit form, then replace any and every part with even a scratch on it, then build it as if it were new. That first run makes all these work worthwhile.
Anyway, I started out MM3 with the attached setup installed on the truck. The track was grooved and dry but extremely rough from where it was raced in after a rainshower. It's a new layout with some very large 1/8 scale jumps in the middle of high speed straights. So pretty big air. Overall I was impressed with the truck. I didn't bring my track timer so I couldn't judge my lap times compared to the standard. But they were fairly fluid. As smooth as they could be for the first time driving it. The truck flew really well. I had good control in the air. Really good balanced steering with no shortage of rear traction. I think the weight transfer and slipper is about right as even with a 6.5 it would not lift the front tires.
It may have been due to the rough track, or that and a combination of being a new truck, but I didn't feel consistent with it yet. I definitely need more track time with it.
The issues:
The rear lower shock eyelets would pull right through on big air landings. It happened on the second lap. At first I thought the rear arm had snapped, apparently being common.But nope. So for now I put a washer in between the eye and the head of the screw. It held for the rest of the day. Obviously a more permanent solution is needed as I think it may restrict some movement.
My experimental rear body mount did not hold. On a smoother, smaller track, I'm sure it would have been fine. But I did land a few big jumps wrong as I was learning the truck. The small center beam that I was using as a body mount cracked. I don't want to permanently change the body mounts as I have Durango bodies to use. So I'll replace the shock tower and just use those bodies from now on instead of the JConcepts body. Oh well.
Now for the big one and the reason for this post.
Team Durango ball diffs.
I built this one according to the website. I held it and tightened it down until I couldn't turn the diff gear by hand. I'm talking vein popping out of my forehead effort. Yet, when I got to the track, I had to bring it in three times and tighten the diff by one full turn each time. By the third time it finally started to feel right and put the power down. I don't get these diffs man. With my AE diffs I can get a good feel on the track that tells me if its a little loose or too tight. I can actually tune corner exit stability with them. But these diffs just never give me a warm and fuzzy "you're in the window" feeling. They are either loose and horribly slipping or cranked down. They seem to work that way but man. I read on here about how awesome they are and how long they last, but I feel like rebuilding them after every track day because I don't trust them. Who knows???
Anyway, I started out MM3 with the attached setup installed on the truck. The track was grooved and dry but extremely rough from where it was raced in after a rainshower. It's a new layout with some very large 1/8 scale jumps in the middle of high speed straights. So pretty big air. Overall I was impressed with the truck. I didn't bring my track timer so I couldn't judge my lap times compared to the standard. But they were fairly fluid. As smooth as they could be for the first time driving it. The truck flew really well. I had good control in the air. Really good balanced steering with no shortage of rear traction. I think the weight transfer and slipper is about right as even with a 6.5 it would not lift the front tires.
It may have been due to the rough track, or that and a combination of being a new truck, but I didn't feel consistent with it yet. I definitely need more track time with it.
The issues:
The rear lower shock eyelets would pull right through on big air landings. It happened on the second lap. At first I thought the rear arm had snapped, apparently being common.But nope. So for now I put a washer in between the eye and the head of the screw. It held for the rest of the day. Obviously a more permanent solution is needed as I think it may restrict some movement.
My experimental rear body mount did not hold. On a smoother, smaller track, I'm sure it would have been fine. But I did land a few big jumps wrong as I was learning the truck. The small center beam that I was using as a body mount cracked. I don't want to permanently change the body mounts as I have Durango bodies to use. So I'll replace the shock tower and just use those bodies from now on instead of the JConcepts body. Oh well.
Now for the big one and the reason for this post.
Team Durango ball diffs.
I built this one according to the website. I held it and tightened it down until I couldn't turn the diff gear by hand. I'm talking vein popping out of my forehead effort. Yet, when I got to the track, I had to bring it in three times and tighten the diff by one full turn each time. By the third time it finally started to feel right and put the power down. I don't get these diffs man. With my AE diffs I can get a good feel on the track that tells me if its a little loose or too tight. I can actually tune corner exit stability with them. But these diffs just never give me a warm and fuzzy "you're in the window" feeling. They are either loose and horribly slipping or cranked down. They seem to work that way but man. I read on here about how awesome they are and how long they last, but I feel like rebuilding them after every track day because I don't trust them. Who knows???
01-20-2017, 10:43 PM
#1309
Tech Addict
I guess with the low forum interest here and elsewhere, this truck really wasn't that popular. Looking back, I think it came out during the downfall of stadium truck racing.
Is anyone still actively racing this truck and how are you doing with it against trucks like the T5M?
Is anyone still actively racing this truck and how are you doing with it against trucks like the T5M?
01-23-2017, 11:38 PM
#1310
Here is my truck with the JCon body installed. I really didn't need to cut the holes in the hood. Buy the clearance was so close that it would have rubbed the paint when flexing and vibrating. I'd rather have holes than scraped looking paint. You can see in the rear how I lowered the body. I like the stance and how it turned out.
01-24-2017, 07:29 AM
#1311
Carpet Set up
Anyone have an ultra-high traction setup they would care to share? I don't see one on Petit RC to use as a starting point.
01-25-2017, 02:06 PM
#1312
Tech Addict
No, it's the JConcepts Finnisher for the Kyosho RT6 Mid Motor. It's literally like the only aftermarket body that seems to work with minimal mods. I did come across another body that may work, though it's not easy to find either. The body for the old Kyosho nitro truck, kyosho part number RS35. I'm quite certain that others could be made to work if we start attaching different body mounts to the towers. That's the key. We've been trying to use the stock mounts, which severely limits things. Another body that may work, according to another user here, is the body from the Losi XXT, the FXT. But I can't personally confirm this.
01-26-2017, 10:39 AM
#1313
Tech Regular
No, it's the JConcepts Finnisher for the Kyosho RT6 Mid Motor. It's literally like the only aftermarket body that seems to work with minimal mods. I did come across another body that may work, though it's not easy to find either. The body for the old Kyosho nitro truck, kyosho part number RS35. I'm quite certain that others could be made to work if we start attaching different body mounts to the towers. That's the key. We've been trying to use the stock mounts, which severely limits things. Another body that may work, according to another user here, is the body from the Losi XXT, the FXT. But I can't personally confirm this.
02-02-2017, 10:11 PM
#1314
Tech Addict
Alan and others.
For the rt6 mm body. Turn the rear body mounts around and run them on the front of the rear shock tower. Plenty of room to Mount.
I was doing pretty well against some T5m but I did the shorty mod to run sideways and added 60g of weight around the battery.
For the rt6 mm body. Turn the rear body mounts around and run them on the front of the rear shock tower. Plenty of room to Mount.
I was doing pretty well against some T5m but I did the shorty mod to run sideways and added 60g of weight around the battery.
02-03-2017, 05:50 AM
#1315
Tech Addict
Alan and others.
For the rt6 mm body. Turn the rear body mounts around and run them on the front of the rear shock tower. Plenty of room to Mount.
I was doing pretty well against some T5m but I did the shorty mod to run sideways and added 60g of weight around the battery.
For the rt6 mm body. Turn the rear body mounts around and run them on the front of the rear shock tower. Plenty of room to Mount.
I was doing pretty well against some T5m but I did the shorty mod to run sideways and added 60g of weight around the battery.
Good to hear about the T5's. I know mine is super easy to drive. Something I've noticed going through the threads and by looking at all the setup sheets. Added weight.
I've always looked at adding weight as a bandaid until you get the suspension sorted out. Basically a quick fix. But with these Durango's it seems to be the norm to run all kinds of weights. So much so that TD offers fancy weights that can be attaches all over the trucks. Do these vehicles just run better overall when run heavy? I'm pretty sure much of the nervousness that I'm feeling would disappear and the vehicles would feel more planted if I added weight to the whole chassis. I'm running 6.5's and 7.5's so I've got the power to make up for it.
I actually started out the New Year NOT driving any of my AE cars so that maybe I would forget what they felt like and instead concentrate on getting the TD's as good as they can get. I'll keep doing this at least for the next month or two.
02-04-2017, 03:44 PM
#1316
Tech Addict
Cool idea, I'll have to look at that.
Good to hear about the T5's. I know mine is super easy to drive. Something I've noticed going through the threads and by looking at all the setup sheets. Added weight.
I've always looked at adding weight as a bandaid until you get the suspension sorted out. Basically a quick fix. But with these Durango's it seems to be the norm to run all kinds of weights. So much so that TD offers fancy weights that can be attaches all over the trucks. Do these vehicles just run better overall when run heavy? I'm pretty sure much of the nervousness that I'm feeling would disappear and the vehicles would feel more planted if I added weight to the whole chassis. I'm running 6.5's and 7.5's so I've got the power to make up for it.
I actually started out the New Year NOT driving any of my AE cars so that maybe I would forget what they felt like and instead concentrate on getting the TD's as good as they can get. I'll keep doing this at least for the next month or two.
Good to hear about the T5's. I know mine is super easy to drive. Something I've noticed going through the threads and by looking at all the setup sheets. Added weight.
I've always looked at adding weight as a bandaid until you get the suspension sorted out. Basically a quick fix. But with these Durango's it seems to be the norm to run all kinds of weights. So much so that TD offers fancy weights that can be attaches all over the trucks. Do these vehicles just run better overall when run heavy? I'm pretty sure much of the nervousness that I'm feeling would disappear and the vehicles would feel more planted if I added weight to the whole chassis. I'm running 6.5's and 7.5's so I've got the power to make up for it.
I actually started out the New Year NOT driving any of my AE cars so that maybe I would forget what they felt like and instead concentrate on getting the TD's as good as they can get. I'll keep doing this at least for the next month or two.
02-04-2017, 06:45 PM
#1317
Tech Addict
The story of my quest to run Durango this season gets even more funny as time goes on....
So last night I'm scrambling to get all my race tires that I had shipped over night mounted and balanced. Get the last of the bodies cut out and painted. Get the shock oils and diff oils changed. I also rebuilt the diffs. Basically freshen everything to undo the wear and tear from practice. All spares loaded. All in all, at 230am everything that's going to be is ready to go. It's been a long and expensive road to switch over all my gear to a new brand. I don't know how the sponsored guys do this every year...anyway, went to bed feeling good about the debut.
So my alarm goes off at 730 and it was then I realized the RC god's were not on my side. 104° fever.... I've got the damn flu. FML.
So I guess once I get better I've got a few more weeks to work on these new cars. The bright side is that the majority of worthwhile outdoor races in my local only start to pick up in the spring. But it would have been nice to get started at the local track today.
Someday I'll get to pilot a Durango against other cars.... Someday. Lol
So last night I'm scrambling to get all my race tires that I had shipped over night mounted and balanced. Get the last of the bodies cut out and painted. Get the shock oils and diff oils changed. I also rebuilt the diffs. Basically freshen everything to undo the wear and tear from practice. All spares loaded. All in all, at 230am everything that's going to be is ready to go. It's been a long and expensive road to switch over all my gear to a new brand. I don't know how the sponsored guys do this every year...anyway, went to bed feeling good about the debut.
So my alarm goes off at 730 and it was then I realized the RC god's were not on my side. 104° fever.... I've got the damn flu. FML.
So I guess once I get better I've got a few more weeks to work on these new cars. The bright side is that the majority of worthwhile outdoor races in my local only start to pick up in the spring. But it would have been nice to get started at the local track today.
Someday I'll get to pilot a Durango against other cars.... Someday. Lol
03-16-2017, 10:25 PM
#1318
Tech Addict
SEE POST 19117 IN THE DEX210 THREAD FOR INFO ON GETTING THE IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND DEST210R BODYS
07-25-2017, 06:39 AM
#1320
Tech Addict
Yeah this thread disappears quite quickly as it's likely the least run Durango out of them all. See post 1318 (right before yours) This is real and I have a nice new DEST body that will be given to TBG this fall. We'll have DEST bodies to run next year. Also look back a few and do the twisted wire mod on your rear arms. They are hard to find but the mod, when done correctly will prevent the breakage.