wyd

iTrader: (51)

Bob that BMI TC4 is sweet looking!!!!!!!!!

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

My only complaint was that it was weighing in at 1580 !!!!! I was like dammmnn this car needs to go to Jenny Craig!!!! After switching to taping it in I was down to 1565 but thats as low as I could get. The only things I have on the car extra are my two fans and the power cap. I know if I get them off It will be lighter but I think I would rather keep them on.

Your RDX looks impressive. If I start having problems with this car I will definitely be checking into them for next year.

So far Im very happy with it though. I just need to practice some more so I can tell if I'm lacking power or I am scrubbing too much corner speed. I ran a variation of Billy's setup for there. I changed it to the center oneway and raised the rear roll center even more by going to the black ball studs in the rear.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Yeah your car didn't look too bad. I think more track time would of helped you out some. The RDX was great for me this weekend and the week before. It just seems to work for me at this time.

I did send you a PM with the info you needed. I still have somputer access thru work so if you send it I will still be able to get to it. I also can get bodies painted for you guys if you need them from my neighbor that does all my work to.

Hope you guys like the car and the stuff you put on yours.

Thanks
Brian

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Yeah I talked to Bill and told him and he is trying to get everything together. As soon as he gets it he is going to give it to me and I will send it to you. I might just take you up on the bodies. What I can do is just send you the cash and have you pick up the body, if thats cool. I don't plan on getting any nice paint jobs until at least a month or so of carpet season, I know the transistion inside is going to be a little rough on the body . Fred was just telling me that he put everything on my car and the drive train was binding. He said he is going to try your gear boxes on my car with my ceramics. My car before was insanely free before.

BlackKat

Buying a new kit right off I'd just go with Yokomo bladder caps (from the SD/BD shocks) and the aluminum toe-blocks. One-way if you need it (I find my car works better for me with a diff on the surface I run on)

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

After that I would run it for a month or so and then get the BMI kit and you will be shocked at the difference in the car.

MaxSpeed

Just to update everyone, the Factory TC4's should be at the distributors very soon.

I've got mine, and trust me, it's well worth the wait.

Wild Cherry

I got to see Barry run his Ae Team , Its the fastest sedan I`v ever seen....

macvolcom

iTrader: (5)

How did you get yours so early?

ROBORAT

iTrader: (7)

is that just the bladders or even the foam thingees?

BlackKat

Caps & bladders. Or you can get a set of Rayspeed bladders for the stock AE caps. I like the Yokomo caps better though

Seatbelt

I plan to use TRF Fluorine Shocks on the TC4, will there be any problems? And what is the part number for the aluminium toe-block?

MaxSpeed

Macvolcom: Team drivers actually have an advantage sometimes! lol

Seabelt: Here are the part nubers for the alum. toe blocks

#31067 TC4 Aluminum Rear Arm Mount, X-3.0
#31068 TC4 Aluminum Rear Arm Mount, X-2.5
#31069 TC4 Aluminum Rear Arm Mount, X-2.0

xDeeDubYax

BOBBARRY: There are a hundred ways to get a driveline bound up/freed up, and i am sure you probably know most of them. I just wanted to share one thing i found that freed the car up tremendously. The TC4 kit has two round foam pieces that are supposed to replace the single o-ring from the TC3 kit, that goes in the main driveshaft cups. Alot of people omit them when building their car, but on my car i found that two was too much (one in each cup) and one (or none) wasnt enough. I cut one in half with a razor blade, placing half in each main driveshaft cup. There is a little play in the cups so the driveshaft doesnt press against the inside of the cup, relieving the sideload on the bearings that support the layshaft. If there is a full foam piece in each cup, the main shaft is tight in the cups, pressing the front and rear layshaft towards the gearcases. This presses the inner races of the supporting bearings sideways in relation to the outer races (F/R). You can offset this some with removing the shims on the layshafts (F/R), but it can create other issues (premature gear wear) and it is only placing a bandaid on the problem. With this change my drivetrain was freed tremendously (with everything else done to the car as well). I run all composite or plastic main driveline components, including a graphite main shaft, aluminum layshafts (F/R) and ceramic diffballs, with an occasional lightened steel diff in the front for added weight transfer with some setups. The car with 57mm foams and all the light driveline parts spins by hand for well over 10 seconds, which isnt an indicator of speed or performance, but that the driveline isnt binding in anyway. Previously, it didnt spin very long at all (3 seconds at best).

- DaveW


BTW: Can anyone tell me anything out of the ordinary about this pic?

Seatbelt

It has no wheels?

MaxSpeed: so do I get all three of those? Or are those three for separate settings? Sorry, I'm a bit new to this stuff. And is that an add-on or does it replace one of the stock parts? Thanks