26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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12-02-2015, 06:09 AM
#616
I like a nice/free car -- the only place I can't seem to get free (with a little filing) is in the front end -- the caster blocks w/shoulder screw. I'm assuming the binding is coming from the shoulder screw, rubbing inside the arm, since this is where it pivots (since the screw threads into the actual caster block itself). I do back off the screws about a 1/2-3/4 turn.
I could polish it to try to remove some of the coating -- any suggestions?
I could polish it to try to remove some of the coating -- any suggestions?
Last edited by skrichter; 12-02-2015 at 07:04 AM.
12-02-2015, 06:41 AM
#617
I like a nice/free car -- the only place I can't seem to get free (with a little filing) is in the front end -- the caster blocks w/shoulder screw. I'm assuming the binding is coming from the shoulder screw, rubbing inside the arm, since this is where it pivots (since the screw threads into the actual caster block itself).
I could polish it to try to remove some of the coating -- any suggestions?
I could polish it to try to remove some of the coating -- any suggestions?
12-02-2015, 07:14 AM
#619
I got my kit together and that's about the only spot there was any drag. My maiden voyage is tonight and before I started polishing or trying to take any material off, i figured I'd run it 5-6 packs and see if it frees up. If not then I will try and remove a touch of material.
12-02-2015, 07:32 AM
#620
For clay track with 180 turns should I go with short or long VLA? ?
12-02-2015, 07:33 AM
#621
I like a nice/free car -- the only place I can't seem to get free (with a little filing) is in the front end -- the caster blocks w/shoulder screw. I'm assuming the binding is coming from the shoulder screw, rubbing inside the arm, since this is where it pivots (since the screw threads into the actual caster block itself). I do back off the screws about a 1/2-3/4 turn.
I could polish it to try to remove some of the coating -- any suggestions?
I could polish it to try to remove some of the coating -- any suggestions?
12-02-2015, 07:49 AM
#622
I've been racing and building rc cars for more then 20 years. First buggy was a Losi JR Pro SE.
Here is my take on screws threading into LOSI plastic or any plastic part for that matter. When you are cutting new threads with a metal screw you are creating a lot of heat from the resistance. Ever touched a screw right after you thread it in for the first time? It gets pretty hot. Now think about how hot the plastic is getting from that screw...and what happens to plastic when it gets hot....it becomes soft and wants to melt. So by cinching your screws all the way down while cutting new threads, you will end up stripping the plastic nearly every time.
So the secret is this, thread your screws in about 75 to 80% and stop. Do this to the majority of the screws as you build. Then after the screw and the plastic cools down, slowly and lightly tighten the screw down until it just cinches tight. Do not add that extra turn to see if it is tight. After your first couple of runs you can go back and check if anything feels loose.
Trust me I learned this the hard way with my first few builds. But since I adopted this method, I have not had much in way of plastics stripping out during the build.
Now this is not to say that there are some places where very short screws that hold parts together will easily strip. Just have to be gentle and patient, then some times use a longer screw.
Hope this helps with your future builds.
Here is my take on screws threading into LOSI plastic or any plastic part for that matter. When you are cutting new threads with a metal screw you are creating a lot of heat from the resistance. Ever touched a screw right after you thread it in for the first time? It gets pretty hot. Now think about how hot the plastic is getting from that screw...and what happens to plastic when it gets hot....it becomes soft and wants to melt. So by cinching your screws all the way down while cutting new threads, you will end up stripping the plastic nearly every time.
So the secret is this, thread your screws in about 75 to 80% and stop. Do this to the majority of the screws as you build. Then after the screw and the plastic cools down, slowly and lightly tighten the screw down until it just cinches tight. Do not add that extra turn to see if it is tight. After your first couple of runs you can go back and check if anything feels loose.
Trust me I learned this the hard way with my first few builds. But since I adopted this method, I have not had much in way of plastics stripping out during the build.
Now this is not to say that there are some places where very short screws that hold parts together will easily strip. Just have to be gentle and patient, then some times use a longer screw.
Hope this helps with your future builds.
12-02-2015, 08:57 AM
#623
I like a nice/free car -- the only place I can't seem to get free (with a little filing) is in the front end -- the caster blocks w/shoulder screw. I'm assuming the binding is coming from the shoulder screw, rubbing inside the arm, since this is where it pivots (since the screw threads into the actual caster block itself). I do back off the screws about a 1/2-3/4 turn.
I could polish it to try to remove some of the coating -- any suggestions?
I could polish it to try to remove some of the coating -- any suggestions?
12-02-2015, 09:30 AM
#624
Just got confirmation my was shipped out today and looking forward to the build on Monday. Frank will the aluminum front hinge block from the 2.0 fit this car? I kinda like the feel of that little bit of front weight plus the security of durability. I'm bad about attacking corners really hard.
12-02-2015, 09:33 AM
#625
Just got confirmation my was shipped out today and looking forward to the build on Monday. Frank will the aluminum front hinge block from the 2.0 fit this car? I kinda like the feel of that little bit of front weight plus the security of durability. I'm bad about attacking corners really hard.
12-02-2015, 09:48 AM
#626
Body Choices
What body choices do we have now and what's in the pipeline?
12-02-2015, 10:44 AM
#627
lol ... I just called them to figure out why I don't have a tracking number.
She looked up both orders I'm waiting for and said Fed Ex Ground on Friday.
It's just because I'm a new account I guess.
She looked up both orders I'm waiting for and said Fed Ex Ground on Friday.
It's just because I'm a new account I guess.
12-02-2015, 10:46 AM
#628
New to TLR but is part #TLR332002 useable in mod or is that a stock racing specific part? Thanks.
