hanulec

iTrader: (28)

which brace?
you'll find a stiff chassis best unless there is no grip.... and then, possibly removing the top deck is best.

voodoo

iTrader: (13)

yeah grip is hard to find in our local track unless prepped for a race. but i tried removing the top deck and i actually took 1st in a heat over our top drivers, and consistently placed in the top 3 (except for a couple of heats which were my fault). loving this car!

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

John Doucakis wins in Greece!:

http://www.redrc.net/2015/10/john-do...nationals-rd3/

voodoo

iTrader: (13)

So, does shorter upper camber/caster links promote traction roll or lessen it?

Clegg

iTrader: (9)

So I've determined that trying to follow setups on an AX car is rather pointless given that few people have a car that are all the same parts as any of the setups. Seems most cars end up being A700Mutts. (example, I am running an aluminum chassis (1st gen CO1AL) on an A700L, but with some L2/Evo2 bits, and GD1s, in 17.5/13.5).

So... in trying to tune the car around feel/driving style, what are people using for general setup guidance? The old Xray tuning guide that breaks down each geometry adjustment? Or is there anything more current/applicable to the A700 out there? Trying to narrow down high impact adjustments around roll center and such in relation to "free up/stick the rear off power", "more mid corner steering or on power steering", etc...

And with the A700 there are SO many options to tweak change, its a bit daunting at times. Being that I've been out of the loop the last 7 months, looking at the A700 again to make changes leaves lots of "why the hell is that setup the way it is right now?" questions

WesRaven

I would say shorter links will promote traction roll (to a certain point) because you will continue to gain camber as the car rolls into the turn.

I have come to the same conclusion after trying many different setups from other people; I find them to rarely work, or even be remotely drivable sometimes. When you're starting out brand new, you have little else choice, but after getting used to your own car, driving style, and common track choices, you need to start trusting your own setups and nearly ignore what works for others. I've definitely learned a lot from trying other setups, but what I commonly run and find works for me is different from most others I see that do well.

Anyway, all of that being said, here is the only general setup starting point I've found that works for me on medium-high grip asphalt: Standard springs with the dampening and spring rate set to a 3.0 mm gap front and back. 1.2 mm sway bar up front, 1.0 in the back. If I want more steering and not having any rear traction issues, I will go with a 3.6-4.0 mm gap on the spring rate up front to soften it (but leave the dampening at 3.0).

I've played with many combinations of parts, tires, dampers, chassis (alloy and carbon), upper decks (with and without), flex, bodies, and modifications between my Evo 1 and 2... This is the general starting point I use for all of them and I find it works pretty well to get me in the ball park. It also gives me a baseline so I can tell what other changes are really doing.

Curious what other's use as their go-to "I have no idea what to expect" initial setups.

Schwarta

iTrader: (4)

I've used the setup you posted a while ago as a good starting point.

Wes, I noticed in the a800 thread that you said you prefer the carbon chassis, do you use the chassis brace (am33-5 or other) with the carbon chassis?

I know with the alloy chassis, if you don't use the brace, you must use the top deck, is it the same with the carbon chassis?

WesRaven

Yes, I am using the AM33-5 with the C01L2-H chassis and no top deck. I typically run on a bumpy asphalt track and like to have lot of flex, so the AM33 only has two screws in the center with set screws at the ends to keep it straight on the chassis. For what it's worth, I'm also running the Josh Cyrul shortened AT32 rod mod.

Regarding the top deck; I tend to run without it because while I do gain mid-corner steering, I find I give up too much rear-end traction. I personally haven't found a problem gaining mid-corner steering without having to run the top-deck, and feel they lock up the rear flex points too much for my taste.


Edit:
I've actually run a carbon Raceberry chassis on my Evo 1 without a chassis brace or top deck, but still had the full AT32 rod to keep the chassis from bowing. It is the easiest car to drive I've ever wheeled, but it can't be pushed as hard as other setups. I actually keep this extra car around for the days that I can't dial my main car for the life of me. I even switched to it in the middle of the recent Nats because I dialed my Evo 2 out to oblivion on the Tamiya track. Sometimes consistency can beat a car that is theoretically faster. My Evo 2 (running the alloy chassis at the time) was capable of putting down faster lap times, but my overall times were better with the Evo 1. Me being crazy nervous at my first Nats event didn't help either

WesRaven

Thanks for posting this Howard. Big congrats to John and Awesomatix! Nice to see a mod win

Oleg Babich

You can find the video of these A-mains and more pictures in the report here:

https://www.facebook.com/awesomatixRC

danielc3009

Could someone please explain the effects of using am26. Also I've notice that am06s is now standard on the evo 2, what effect does this have on handling?
Thanks

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

http://racerlog.com/wiki/Awesomatix_...ter_Adjustment

fyi - am26 haven't proven to be extremely popular.

Schwarta

iTrader: (4)

Do the gears wear much? I seem to getting a bit of a "chirp" on take off and was just wondering if it may be wear on my gears. I am using some Teflon dry lube on the gears.

I thought they looked ok at last check. And the car seems to be quiet (ish) when running.

voodoo

iTrader: (13)

That happend to me once, it was the spur gear.

theoutbackdream

ooo. That looks hawt.