300LikesTeam Associated TC4
10-01-2004, 06:48 AM
#331
Tech Rookie
anit dive will give less weight to the rear and give you less traction to the rear on power it shoud make the car come into the corner better hope that helps
10-01-2004, 09:31 AM
#333
Yea i would bet it was PS2... that is just one more reason why Associated rules! I can't wait for the TC4.... 
10-01-2004, 01:04 PM
#334
Tech Rookie
Tony, What's up? Yep I recieved mine this week and have been busy at the track testing carpet setups. After 4 packs it's already as fast as my TC3. The future is bright!
10-01-2004, 03:19 PM
#336
Originally posted by TPhalen
...You will be able to run shims under each block (in .25" increments) to raise or lower the arm mounts for different situations. On the TC3, the standard height arm mount was great for asphalt, concrete, etc., but sucked for carpet. Most hardcore racers would mill down their blocks to lower the arm mounts for carpet....a task only the guys with milling machines could do. Now, that's a thing of the past.
...You will be able to run shims under each block (in .25" increments) to raise or lower the arm mounts for different situations. On the TC3, the standard height arm mount was great for asphalt, concrete, etc., but sucked for carpet. Most hardcore racers would mill down their blocks to lower the arm mounts for carpet....a task only the guys with milling machines could do. Now, that's a thing of the past.
Hmm...carpet season is coming up.....
10-01-2004, 03:28 PM
#337
.025" sounds much better. I have .08", .05", and .03" off blocks for my TC3. Looks like Associated is going to be making aluminum versions of the blocks, at $13 each. Should be much more durable than the plastic ones that come with the car, which are prone to wearing out very fast.
$70 list price for the graphite components kit is very good, provided it includes all available graphite pieces.
Josh
$70 list price for the graphite components kit is very good, provided it includes all available graphite pieces.
Josh
10-01-2004, 03:42 PM
#338
Tony or Barry, I have a tuning question for you guys concerning camber link adjustments.
Now I know, generally if you need traction say... in the rear.. you would either raise or lengthen the rear camber link. My question is... what is the difference in raising it vs lengthing the camber link? Does one offer more midturn traction vs the other or visa-versa? One offer more exit? More goin in?
Thankyou...
Now I know, generally if you need traction say... in the rear.. you would either raise or lengthen the rear camber link. My question is... what is the difference in raising it vs lengthing the camber link? Does one offer more midturn traction vs the other or visa-versa? One offer more exit? More goin in?
Thankyou...
10-01-2004, 04:35 PM
#339
I say don't go over 2 the TC4, from the looks of it it's as fast if not slower than a warpspeed or a BMI
10-01-2004, 05:04 PM
#340
Tech Addict
I'm wondering if AE waited too long to release a...
new car. With the other chassis brands out there no one may get the TC4. AE should have done some more tweeking. Perhaps a new shock design, chassis lightening (cell openings) 
A quick shaft release method. Designed it with the use of cvd boots and etc. They should have went all out on every little detail. Make it less prone to tweeking. My 2-cents. 
A quick shaft release method. Designed it with the use of cvd boots and etc. They should have went all out on every little detail. Make it less prone to tweeking. My 2-cents.
10-01-2004, 05:05 PM
#341
Originally posted by HKlosi
I say don't go over 2 the TC4, from the looks of it it's as fast if not slower than a warpspeed or a BMI
I say don't go over 2 the TC4, from the looks of it it's as fast if not slower than a warpspeed or a BMI
The Warpspeed or BMI chassis don't have the updated suspension.
Josh
10-01-2004, 05:14 PM
#342
Originally posted by Speedo
Haha, you must be pretty skilled to be able to tell how fast something is just by looking at it
The Warpspeed or BMI chassis don't have the updated suspension.
Josh
Haha, you must be pretty skilled to be able to tell how fast something is just by looking at it
The Warpspeed or BMI chassis don't have the updated suspension.
Josh
Funny stuff!!!!Ya, thanks Ling....it's in .025" increments. DOH.
Eric: when you get a good setup, please send it to us!!! Thanks bud!
10-01-2004, 05:16 PM
#343
Tech Addict
Tony you need to make an ask
TQ Tony Phalen Topic =)
TQ Tony Phalen Topic =)
Originally posted by TPhalen
No thanks....not unless you work at the Playboy Mansion and make lots of money....then I might think about it
Thanks.
The arm mounts are now labeled with symbols instead of a letter....ie, the TC3 mounts were labeled F+2, F, R, and R3+2 (for instance). When someone asked you what F block you were running, you had to say F+0 or F+2, if you even knew what they meant.
The new labeling system is pretty cool. If you pay close attention to the labeling, you should be able to see where we 'pimped' the labels from.... Anyway, the labels are as follows: Triangle (replaces the F+2 block), Circle (replaces the F block), Square (replaces the R block), and X (replaces the R3+2 block). You will be able to run shims under each block (in .25" increments) to raise or lower the arm mounts for different situations. On the TC3, the standard height arm mount was great for asphalt, concrete, etc., but sucked for carpet. Most hardcore racers would mill down their blocks to lower the arm mounts for carpet....a task only the guys with milling machines could do. Now, that's a thing of the past.
Just alot more tuning adjustments for a wider range of surfaces.
No thanks....not unless you work at the Playboy Mansion and make lots of money....then I might think about it
Thanks.
The arm mounts are now labeled with symbols instead of a letter....ie, the TC3 mounts were labeled F+2, F, R, and R3+2 (for instance). When someone asked you what F block you were running, you had to say F+0 or F+2, if you even knew what they meant.
The new labeling system is pretty cool. If you pay close attention to the labeling, you should be able to see where we 'pimped' the labels from.... Anyway, the labels are as follows: Triangle (replaces the F+2 block), Circle (replaces the F block), Square (replaces the R block), and X (replaces the R3+2 block). You will be able to run shims under each block (in .25" increments) to raise or lower the arm mounts for different situations. On the TC3, the standard height arm mount was great for asphalt, concrete, etc., but sucked for carpet. Most hardcore racers would mill down their blocks to lower the arm mounts for carpet....a task only the guys with milling machines could do. Now, that's a thing of the past.
Just alot more tuning adjustments for a wider range of surfaces.
10-01-2004, 05:35 PM
#345
Tech Addict
I was thinking. TPhalen...
I'm sure you can chime in here, but I have read that Losi keyed in the CF plates so it won't tweek.
I could see how it would help to keep things from shifting, but don't the carbon fibers contribute to tweeking. It's the twisting motion from a collision that makes it weaken over time. From my expirence it does not take a long time for this to happen. I'm sure a tub chassis would be less prone to this.
I could see how it would help to keep things from shifting, but don't the carbon fibers contribute to tweeking. It's the twisting motion from a collision that makes it weaken over time. From my expirence it does not take a long time for this to happen. I'm sure a tub chassis would be less prone to this.
Last edited by Nightbreed; 10-01-2004 at 09:33 PM.