Durango DEX210 Thread
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
question
Is anyone running the shocks in the rear config. that are still using
standard chassis and rear motor config? Just wondering if they noticed
any benifits or not really. was thinking about swapping the shocks to the rear.
thanks for any input.
standard chassis and rear motor config? Just wondering if they noticed
any benifits or not really. was thinking about swapping the shocks to the rear.
thanks for any input.
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
I am running rm4 with flipped arms, shocks to the rear. I noticed an immediate difference in stability. Buggy seems more settled overall.
I would think for a mid motor configuration, you'd want the rear tires as close to the center of mass as possible to get more weight and therefore more traction on the rear wheels. Unfortunately this means keeping the wheelbase shorter. It's sort of the opposite for rear motor configurations. Pushing the rear tires back even further will help get the mass from the motor closer to being inside the wheelbase, thus reducing the pendulum effect.
Do you feel you have more or less rear traction after doing this mod? My thought process tells me you would have less, but then again the difference may be insignificant.
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
I am using the standard chassis. I haven't run mid-motor mainly because I run on outdoor loose dirt. You are correct in thinking in RM configuration the longer you make the wheelbase the more traction you gain. You also gain more stability when jumping. The trade off is, the longer you make something the more difficult it is to turn. I feel like I have better traction in my current configuration with the stock length chassis. Rear motor 4, flipped arms, and I have the hubs all the way to the rear. This is the longest possible wheelbase you can gain from the stock length chassis and it gives a very stable ride. After I swapped the arms and shifted the hubs the buggy became easier to drive out of corner's and i noticed it was more consistent going over jumps. I found I was less worried about lining everything up perfectly.. The buggy became more forgiving.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
you should build a 1/8 E Buggy, where the build can EASILY reach $1200
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
Thanks. It did.
What are you using from RDRP? Can't see in the pic. Spent all that and stuck with the stock chassis?
What are you using from RDRP? Can't see in the pic. Spent all that and stuck with the stock chassis?
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
towers and by the look all the shock stuff you can get,
caps
retainers
preload
mounts
bottom caps
thumb screws
caps
retainers
preload
mounts
bottom caps
thumb screws
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
Ah. Thought a lot of that was actually exotek stuff.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
ah sorry your right
RDRP are the Thumb screws, preload adjusters and the round side mounts... Everything else is Exotek... Can't say I'm an experienced enough driver to spend $$$ on a new chassis and notice a difference.. I think the stock chassis is just fine... It's one of the reasons I bought this car...
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
RDRP LRC KIT
anyone have any feedback on the lrc mounts for rm configuration? if so what chassis was used and what mount? thanks in advance.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
So I'll be getting a wrap for my buggy done by Mick at rctagz.com, so if anyone wants a wrap for there buggy, we'll have the die lines for the durango +8mm body in the near future. A local has one of his wraps already and it looks like good stuff, I look forward to getting mine in the near future (well, probably end of June as he needs a body to copy and that won't be in for another couple weeks)