Tamiya TB Evo 6
#1666
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
EVO 6 for sale black version (EXO conversion)
Just listed my Black version EVO 6 EXO conversion, click here to see.
#1667
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
Tried the ball tb04 ball diff today. Was super easy to tune once diff was broke in. Had TQ but lost it. Qualified third but managed to pull off a win in the main. In usgt I also qualified 3rd but broke a pin or something in the dog bone and DNF. I used 7mm wheel hexes and stock hard springs that came with black kit. My usgt was hooked up. Got to wait a couple more weeks for next run.
#1668
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
#1669
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
I tried using the Trf dampers this weekend and it wouldn't work with the stiff springs I wanted to use. Lowest ride height I could get was like 6mm. Something to do with the shock caps being longer pushing the spring down just a bit more than stock evo shocks. Maybe with soft springs it could work.
#1670
I tried a slightly different set up this past weekend with very good results. I wanted to try the suspension shims so I added 0.5mm under each suspension mount (on the chassis) and reset my droop. I normally run a typical spring package with the rear springs being one step softer than the front springs.
In this configuration, the car was fairly good. I then went one additional step softer and the rear of the car was terrible. I had anticipated the softer springs would stick the rear end just a touch more but it did the opposite.
If softer made it worse, I though might as well try one step harder than normal (which was the same spring as the front). The rear was indeed stuck better and I wasn't lacking for rear traction anywhere.
I wanted to keep the testing going so I went one step harder (now the rear is actually one step harder than the front spring). The rear was stuck in all aspects and now the car had more initial turn in as well as mid-exit steering.
This was in USGT and after the first heat I nabbed TQ only to give it up the in the second heat and finish second in the Amain, 3 seconds behind the leader who is the current USGT points leader. At the end of the day, the car was the best it has ever been using a set up that I have never used (regarding springs) for any TC with 0.1 variation from my fast 5 lap to my top 20 lap avg.
The Exo 6 is by far the best car I have ever owned.
In this configuration, the car was fairly good. I then went one additional step softer and the rear of the car was terrible. I had anticipated the softer springs would stick the rear end just a touch more but it did the opposite.
If softer made it worse, I though might as well try one step harder than normal (which was the same spring as the front). The rear was indeed stuck better and I wasn't lacking for rear traction anywhere.
I wanted to keep the testing going so I went one step harder (now the rear is actually one step harder than the front spring). The rear was stuck in all aspects and now the car had more initial turn in as well as mid-exit steering.
This was in USGT and after the first heat I nabbed TQ only to give it up the in the second heat and finish second in the Amain, 3 seconds behind the leader who is the current USGT points leader. At the end of the day, the car was the best it has ever been using a set up that I have never used (regarding springs) for any TC with 0.1 variation from my fast 5 lap to my top 20 lap avg.
The Exo 6 is by far the best car I have ever owned.
#1673
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
I tried a slightly different set up this past weekend with very good results. I wanted to try the suspension shims so I added 0.5mm under each suspension mount (on the chassis) and reset my droop. I normally run a typical spring package with the rear springs being one step softer than the front springs.
In this configuration, the car was fairly good. I then went one additional step softer and the rear of the car was terrible. I had anticipated the softer springs would stick the rear end just a touch more but it did the opposite.
If softer made it worse, I though might as well try one step harder than normal (which was the same spring as the front). The rear was indeed stuck better and I wasn't lacking for rear traction anywhere.
I wanted to keep the testing going so I went one step harder (now the rear is actually one step harder than the front spring). The rear was stuck in all aspects and now the car had more initial turn in as well as mid-exit steering.
This was in USGT and after the first heat I nabbed TQ only to give it up the in the second heat and finish second in the Amain, 3 seconds behind the leader who is the current USGT points leader. At the end of the day, the car was the best it has ever been using a set up that I have never used (regarding springs) for any TC with 0.1 variation from my fast 5 lap to my top 20 lap avg.
The Exo 6 is by far the best car I have ever owned.
In this configuration, the car was fairly good. I then went one additional step softer and the rear of the car was terrible. I had anticipated the softer springs would stick the rear end just a touch more but it did the opposite.
If softer made it worse, I though might as well try one step harder than normal (which was the same spring as the front). The rear was indeed stuck better and I wasn't lacking for rear traction anywhere.
I wanted to keep the testing going so I went one step harder (now the rear is actually one step harder than the front spring). The rear was stuck in all aspects and now the car had more initial turn in as well as mid-exit steering.
This was in USGT and after the first heat I nabbed TQ only to give it up the in the second heat and finish second in the Amain, 3 seconds behind the leader who is the current USGT points leader. At the end of the day, the car was the best it has ever been using a set up that I have never used (regarding springs) for any TC with 0.1 variation from my fast 5 lap to my top 20 lap avg.
The Exo 6 is by far the best car I have ever owned.
#1674
I went to the hardest springs I could find in my spring box which was the stock springs that came with the black evo Kit. I don't have a clue on how those are rated! I went from 37.5 shock oil to 40wt and my car was planted. My droop is 5 front and 4 rear. Going to try 6 in front and 5 rear next time for fun. This car really responds to changes well. Both usgt and 17.5 car have same setup on them. Couldn't do that with other cars I've ran.
I have always run ~30-35WT oil but I keep increasing the WT and it keeps getting better. I am now running 50WT all the way around.
Car just keeps getting better and responds to changes really well.
#1675
Tech Elite
iTrader: (66)
So I did something today I never could have thought would happen. I cracked a diff case. And by diff case I mean the actual diff.
I want to try a front diff with 1m fluid. I've run them before in other cars and liked them. Filled it as normally as I could with the clear snot, let it sit for several hours to get the bubbles out and slowly tighten the screws on the cap in a cross pattern.
Before any of the screws were tight, I heard a pop, and saw fluid oozing put of a crack that ran the length of the screw hole. Damnit man.
I know that it wasn't over filled, I think it was actually slightly under filled. I think that some fluid made its way into the screw holes as I was filling the diff. As I tighten the screws, the 1m fluid being so thick, built hydraulic pressure that could not escape past the screw threads, so it found the weakest point as thw cased popped like a piņata.
I have a couple of new diff cases on order, just be careful if you want to try heavyweight front diffs and not get fluid in the screw holes.
I am also going to try the TB03 rear tower. It looks to have the same overall geometry, but fewer holes that the EVO 6 tower. I like want to try it because the body mounts are so much lower than stock. I'm wanting the run the Mazda Furia body and the rear is super low.
I want to try a front diff with 1m fluid. I've run them before in other cars and liked them. Filled it as normally as I could with the clear snot, let it sit for several hours to get the bubbles out and slowly tighten the screws on the cap in a cross pattern.
Before any of the screws were tight, I heard a pop, and saw fluid oozing put of a crack that ran the length of the screw hole. Damnit man.
I know that it wasn't over filled, I think it was actually slightly under filled. I think that some fluid made its way into the screw holes as I was filling the diff. As I tighten the screws, the 1m fluid being so thick, built hydraulic pressure that could not escape past the screw threads, so it found the weakest point as thw cased popped like a piņata.
I have a couple of new diff cases on order, just be careful if you want to try heavyweight front diffs and not get fluid in the screw holes.
I am also going to try the TB03 rear tower. It looks to have the same overall geometry, but fewer holes that the EVO 6 tower. I like want to try it because the body mounts are so much lower than stock. I'm wanting the run the Mazda Furia body and the rear is super low.
#1676
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
I tried using the Trf dampers this weekend and it wouldn't work with the stiff springs I wanted to use. Lowest ride height I could get was like 6mm. Something to do with the shock caps being longer pushing the spring down just a bit more than stock evo shocks. Maybe with soft springs it could work.
#1677
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
So I did something today I never could have thought would happen. I cracked a diff case. And by diff case I mean the actual diff.
I want to try a front diff with 1m fluid. I've run them before in other cars and liked them. Filled it as normally as I could with the clear snot, let it sit for several hours to get the bubbles out and slowly tighten the screws on the cap in a cross pattern.
Before any of the screws were tight, I heard a pop, and saw fluid oozing put of a crack that ran the length of the screw hole. Damnit man.
I know that it wasn't over filled, I think it was actually slightly under filled. I think that some fluid made its way into the screw holes as I was filling the diff. As I tighten the screws, the 1m fluid being so thick, built hydraulic pressure that could not escape past the screw threads, so it found the weakest point as thw cased popped like a piņata.
I have a couple of new diff cases on order, just be careful if you want to try heavyweight front diffs and not get fluid in the screw holes.
I am also going to try the TB03 rear tower. It looks to have the same overall geometry, but fewer holes that the EVO 6 tower. I like want to try it because the body mounts are so much lower than stock. I'm wanting the run the Mazda Furia body and the rear is super low.
I want to try a front diff with 1m fluid. I've run them before in other cars and liked them. Filled it as normally as I could with the clear snot, let it sit for several hours to get the bubbles out and slowly tighten the screws on the cap in a cross pattern.
Before any of the screws were tight, I heard a pop, and saw fluid oozing put of a crack that ran the length of the screw hole. Damnit man.
I know that it wasn't over filled, I think it was actually slightly under filled. I think that some fluid made its way into the screw holes as I was filling the diff. As I tighten the screws, the 1m fluid being so thick, built hydraulic pressure that could not escape past the screw threads, so it found the weakest point as thw cased popped like a piņata.
I have a couple of new diff cases on order, just be careful if you want to try heavyweight front diffs and not get fluid in the screw holes.
I am also going to try the TB03 rear tower. It looks to have the same overall geometry, but fewer holes that the EVO 6 tower. I like want to try it because the body mounts are so much lower than stock. I'm wanting the run the Mazda Furia body and the rear is super low.
#1678
Tech Elite
iTrader: (66)
I do. I just want to try something different. I am looking for a more controllable corner entry with more mid to exit corner speed and I think having a diff with 1m fluild would help with that.
Some of the changed I made last time out greatly reduced my corner entry speed. I was trying to accplish that as I felt the car was too twitchy. Now trying g to gain some back, but keep it smooth.
Some of the changed I made last time out greatly reduced my corner entry speed. I was trying to accplish that as I felt the car was too twitchy. Now trying g to gain some back, but keep it smooth.
#1679
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
I do. I just want to try something different. I am looking for a more controllable corner entry with more mid to exit corner speed and I think having a diff with 1m fluild would help with that.
Some of the changed I made last time out greatly reduced my corner entry speed. I was trying to accplish that as I felt the car was too twitchy. Now trying g to gain some back, but keep it smooth.
Some of the changed I made last time out greatly reduced my corner entry speed. I was trying to accplish that as I felt the car was too twitchy. Now trying g to gain some back, but keep it smooth.
#1680
Tech Elite
iTrader: (66)
I'm not a big fan of ball diffs. I have run them for years. I can build one to be ad smooth as silk and last a good while. I am just a while lot happier with gear diffs. It makes consistent set up easier and gear diff are less likely to fail at the wrong moment.
Post up that set up. I'd like to see it. I'll post up some of mine as well in the next couple days. I have one that is pretty dialed, and a couple that good starting set-ups but need fine tuning.
Post up that set up. I'd like to see it. I'll post up some of mine as well in the next couple days. I have one that is pretty dialed, and a couple that good starting set-ups but need fine tuning.