Thomaseh

So, a quick question seeing that my next race is at Hvervenbukta in Oslo. I normally run 3* toe-in in the back, but Hvervenbukta is a 1/8 track with a huuuuuuuge sweeper before a looooooooong straight. Do I gain more speed going with 2* toe-in in the back? What is the difference in speed vs. corner speed

mingnon

iTrader: (12)

explains it all
http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racin...oe-in-toe-out/

Kevin Marcy

When I ordered my car, the vertical motor mount was not in stock. So here's my alternative (inspired by the TC6).

Stanfsu

iTrader: (294)

I would love to upgrade the plastic Knuckle Arms with alum but it appears that 3racing does not sell this upgrade. Any suggestions? What will fit? Has anyone done this upgrade?

FauxMako

Alum there would bend where plastic will break. Bent parts aren't any good. The plastic parts are also going to be much cheaper than alum so replacing a broken plastic part is still better than replacing a bent alum part.

If you are breaking steering knuckles, c-hubs or front arms, get the X-ray hard bumper. It's a drop in upgrade and will protect the front end much better than the stock bumper. It's a little thicker than the 3racing bumper, a couple of 3-4mm spacers on top of the bumper posts fill in the gap between the posts and the top plate. The 3Racing TT01/TB03 CF bumper plate fits the Sakura Zero as well.

6376vette

+1 stay away from aluminium knuckles and c hubs. Tamiya parts can be made to work but it definitely isn't worth it. You need flex and a breaking point. Not a soft bending point. Remember that although these are toys they are precision toys. As Mike said bent parts are no good and they can not be reliably straightened.

Stanfsu

iTrader: (294)

Okay I will stay with the plastic

FauxMako

Ooooh:


http://os.3racing.hk/articles.php?articles_key=143

mingnon

iTrader: (12)

yes, they work great and are cheaper than other options, waiting to see what "wears out" on them

oceanhighz

iTrader: (49)

Okay, finished my build, and overall for the money, I am impressed. One problem I am having though is a binding in the drivetrain after everything is installed. The belts are not overly tight, not quite loose either, but wouldn't cause this amount of tightness. It seems to be coming from the spur adapter. I used the plastic spur adapter, and put in a 64 pitch spur. I can't remember what brand spur it is, but could it be too thick? I vaguely remember seeing something like this, but I can't find it..... any idea?

Thomaseh

Thanks, is there a huge speed difference?

mingnon

iTrader: (12)

i prefer about 1deg toe in on rear and 1 on the front, just makes the car feel a bit more stable when in VTA setup (im not that flash a driver), tried 0 all round and didnt like it.

jimmer411

Has anyone compiled a full list of recommended upgrades with part numbers? Im thinking about ordering one pretty soon.

mingnon

iTrader: (12)

go back one page and have a look at Steve M's post

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Based on my experience so far, here is a basic list.

• SAK-S17/PK Vertical mount
• SAK-05 Aluminium Gear Adapter
• SAK-07A Center Pulley Set 19T
• SAK-06 Spur Gear Shaft Set (or use Tamiya shims with the stock item)
• SAK-58PK Belt tensioner (optional)
• SAK-14 - chassis down stop protection plate
• SAK-S16/WO Graphite Upper Deck (or modify the stock one)
• AE 40 wt shock oil (all 4 shocks)
• Tamiya Heavy Duty Servo Saver

If you want a front spool, you need to purchase three separate items to assemble one.

• SAK-02 - 38T white pulley
• SAK-09 - Solid Axle Outer Joint (2)
• SAK-08/PK - Front Solid Axle