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Old 06-07-2005, 07:25 PM
  #11596  
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Originally Posted by rc-zombies
domo

can you post the new box set-up?
i will do tonight, the most obvious changes are the shock positions, roll centre heights and swaybars.
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Old 06-07-2005, 07:42 PM
  #11597  
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Sweet! You can run AE diff gears? Yes, what about the bevel gears?
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Old 06-07-2005, 07:45 PM
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Default Anyone know if Pal racing make....

aluminum outdrives for the Pro 4. Or, can you use the TC4 ones withe the cvd blades. I sure hope Losi comes out with the LVDs for the Pro 4. That would help the spool issue.
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Old 06-07-2005, 07:47 PM
  #11599  
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any battery puke problems with the BMI? I sure like the new Xray05 battery trays. Very nice....
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Old 06-07-2005, 07:48 PM
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I had a similar problem with the delrin diff outdrives. requires a bit of dremel work so the mesh can be loosened. You will find the one piece input shaft/gears will bed in after a couple of meetings. Try leaving it going for a few hours.
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Old 06-07-2005, 09:55 PM
  #11601  
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Originally Posted by RCknight
any battery puke problems with the BMI? I sure like the new Xray05 battery trays. Very nice....
I've had zero problems so far concerning my packs falling off, i use battery strapping tape though. The BMI battery slots already come beveled
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Old 06-08-2005, 12:42 AM
  #11602  
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[QUOTE=domo]

are you refering to the one piece input shaft/gear? if so, i cant see it being quiet on the track, its bloody loud, ive been running it in with an old motor at 3v hoping it would quiet down, but the note hasnt changed even after 20mins and the drivetrain still isnt very free, at this stage im thinking about going back to the old input shaft and gears...

Had the same problem with my one piece input shafts, went back to the ones with the square AL bevel gear and have not broken one since.
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Old 06-08-2005, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Longbeach Super
Had the same problem with my one piece input shafts, went back to the ones with the square AL bevel gear and have not broken one since.
it's good to know i'm not the only one having the problem, so it looks like i'll have to order the new hpi alloy input shafts and give them a shot.... it's bit of a shame really that one of the main features of the updated car doesnt work as expected....
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Old 06-08-2005, 03:49 AM
  #11604  
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you will regret going away from 1piece input shafts/gears. I have gone for 3 meetings, had some big hits and haven't even marked the front oneway gear, it looks the same as the day I put it in. Shim the gears correctly, run it in for a few hours and it will go alot better.
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Old 06-08-2005, 04:07 AM
  #11605  
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i've only stripped one bevel gear in the last 6 months anyway, so i'm not too concerned about that... what i am concerned about is how much binding there is in the drivetrain (most of which is on the rear input shaft), anyway I just ordered the new alloy input shafts from the hara edition so hopefully with them i'll have a nice free drivetrain in this car like my others...
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Old 06-08-2005, 06:40 AM
  #11606  
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Originally Posted by axel
I'm also going to try 6 degree caster, to compensate for the 3mm thick chassis. Since more degrees the caster is makes it more stable for bumpy tracks...i think.
Using 6 degree caster will increase your off-power steering.
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Old 06-08-2005, 06:45 AM
  #11607  
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Originally Posted by loopedeloop
Thanks Kewdawg

Just a quick question

The droop 3,, is that 3 on the supplied HPI droop gauge or 3mm actual droop taken with the car on its wheels fully loaded.

cheers

Geoff
Make the adjustment using the droop gauge. Also, the tires were 58mm diameter. Using a Epic 12t double w/ a 100t spur and 43t pinion on a large track. The car was movin'!
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Old 06-08-2005, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by rc-zombies
axel.

if you're going to race with the 3mm chassis on asphalt...you may want to aquire the new high traction arm set. more durable than stock graphite arms. made of plastics and slightly more flex. available overseas...unfortunately...I sold the last I have last month.
For asphalt, the stock plastic arms are the way to go. The 3mm chassis and 2.5mm top deck make the car really stiff for asphalt which is the reason for the 30wt. oil. Although, you're using foam tires, the High Traction Arm Set (which are carbon graphite, by the way) will only make the car stiffer. You'll need the flex of the stock plastic arms outdoors. Save the high traction arms for indoors (carpet).
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Old 06-08-2005, 06:53 AM
  #11609  
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For the ones who have used TC4 gears, how are you not getting slop or incorrect alignment? TC4 is not metric, so the internal diff bearings would be slightly different. Are you reaming the pinion gear or does it fit just a little loose due to the metric input shaft? I would love to use it since TC4 gears seems to never strip with a spool compared to the Pro4's gears with a spool.
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Old 06-08-2005, 08:20 AM
  #11610  
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Originally Posted by kewdawg
For asphalt, the stock plastic arms are the way to go. The 3mm chassis and 2.5mm top deck make the car really stiff for asphalt which is the reason for the 30wt. oil. Although, you're using foam tires, the High Traction Arm Set (which are carbon graphite, by the way) will only make the car stiffer. You'll need the flex of the stock plastic arms outdoors. Save the high traction arms for indoors (carpet).
I think you are mistaken.
the stock arms are graphite...and the high traction arm set is made of plastic composite.
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