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Old 11-02-2012, 08:40 PM
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My new TC6.1 FT is due to arrive Monday, think I got one of the last kits they had at Team Associated.

First new touring car I have had in many years, looking forward to building it.
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by rigelkent09
copy mike haynes set up in my tc6.1, his belt tensioner/holder in the rear gear diff was in position 6 and i did notice a little loose in the rear belt, is it normal??thanks for the help...
Originally Posted by wtcc
As long as there is no slip he might have used it to finetune the carbehaviour on acceleration. Otherwise just make it a little tighter.
Yes I usually run the rear belt pretty loose, if you hear it slip on acceleration then tighten it up. The actual number you have set at will vary depending on the age of the belt, I shoot for the front belt being snug, and the rear fairly loose.
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:42 AM
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I have my belt at factory settings and my rear belt seems fairly snug and my front belt not so much guess ill have to readjust off of feel then.
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:15 AM
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Hey All,

What other DCJ driveshafts work with the TC6.1 (SpecR for Tamiya, Yokomo, etc)? I just want an alternative to RSDs option.

Thanks,
Kane
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Haynes
Yes I usually run the rear belt pretty loose, if you hear it slip on acceleration then tighten it up. The actual number you have set at will vary depending on the age of the belt, I shoot for the front belt being snug, and the rear fairly loose.
thanks for the clarification mike, actually my 6.1 is newly built have not try it run on the track yet, my front is 12, rear 6, i will be racing it this afternoon hope i can get positive result
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:00 PM
  #7956  
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Has anybody used ball diffs in the car yet, are they worth getting?
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by adriang79
My new TC6.1 FT is due to arrive Monday, think I got one of the last kits they had at Team Associated.

First new touring car I have had in many years, looking forward to building it.
I had contemplated waiting but I'm glad I didn't considering they seem to be sold out now!

Have fun, it was fun to build.
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Old 11-03-2012, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vostok 7
I learned that the inner camber link ballstuds for the FT do NOT work with the WC vertical ballstud bearing caps. They work in the outermost hole, but any other hole is going to interfere with the bearing carriers, and even in the outermost hole they are a little too long for my taste; I have some AE 3.5mm TiN ballstuds on the way.


Originally Posted by Losiho
Has anyone else had a problem with this ? I have yet to build by TC6.1, but my new WC chassis, shock towers and vertical ballstud bearing caps have arrived.


Bump.
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Old 11-03-2012, 04:14 PM
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If your in a pinch your dremel with a cutoff wheel can cut down the kit studs. It is important not to have the ballstud too long it will damage the diffholders and bind up your driveline.
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Old 11-03-2012, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by maximuspowell
Has anybody used ball diffs in the car yet, are they worth getting?
I used the common ball diff for the rear for some races in the 17.5t class. Worked very good and saves you some weight. In the end an oil filled gear diff gives you more options, less maintenance and a better working drivetrain especially with strong motors. So I will not continue to invest in a balldiff even though the AE balldiff is of a very good quality!
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Old 11-03-2012, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Haynes
If your in a pinch your dremel with a cutoff wheel can cut down the kit studs. It is important not to have the ballstud too long it will damage the diffholders and bind up your driveline.
The WC supplement is finally up on the AE site and I was surprised that they specify 5mm ballstuds for the WC bearing caps. I'm surprised because 5mm would still poke out of the bottom of the hole and seems to me like it could still bind... I feel much more comfortable with the 3.25mm studs.
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Vostok 7
The WC supplement is finally up on the AE site and I was surprised that they specify 5mm ballstuds for the WC bearing caps. I'm surprised because 5mm would still poke out of the bottom of the hole and seems to me like it could still bind... I feel much more comfortable with the 3.25mm studs.
In most cases we run a 1or 2mm shim under the inside ballstud, a 3.25 will be too short unless running 0 shim
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:54 PM
  #7963  
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Originally Posted by Kane-o
Hey All,

What other DCJ driveshafts work with the TC6.1 (SpecR for Tamiya, Yokomo, etc)? I just want an alternative to RSDs option.

Thanks,
Kane
The version 2 spec r for tc6 is a drop in fit. I prefer the rsd ones as I think they last longer but have used the spec r with good success as well.
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Old 11-03-2012, 07:38 PM
  #7964  
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Originally Posted by Mike Haynes
The version 2 spec r for tc6 is a drop in fit.
Including using the stock wheel hexes?
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Old 11-03-2012, 08:02 PM
  #7965  
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Yes stock axle pin and hex on the ones I had
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