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Old 09-17-2007, 05:11 PM
  #21676  
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Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey guys how important is the lil 'bridge' that's on the outside of the front arms? I really hate to think that the 3 arms that I have are totally useless because the bridge is broken
The arms will have a lot more flex without the bridge there. If it's cracked just drop some glue on it, better than nothing.
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Old 09-17-2007, 08:57 PM
  #21677  
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Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey guys how important is the lil 'bridge' that's on the outside of the front arms? I really hate to think that the 3 arms that I have are totally useless because the bridge is broken
I agree with Randy - the arms will flex much more, but as Randy stated - a little drop of glue will help get you by.

I have noticed that these really aren't "break away" arms - they are more "run-flat" arms like the real sports cars of today. I have only broken a few arms, and of those times, the arms usually just cracked and didn't fully break away.

This is great in the fact that it lets us finish the race, but on the other hand if you aren't looking for those cracks, you might misinterpret it as a tweak or ill handling car....

So with that said....crack kills

Last edited by Mr. McGoo; 09-17-2007 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 09-17-2007, 08:59 PM
  #21678  
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I am posting up my setup that I currently have with my stock/19T Mi3. For 19T i go one spring step softer in the rear.....

This has been one of the best handling cars I have ever owned. I am really diggin' this car and I am pretty darn excited about Vegas!!!

edit...just realized I didn't put what tire compound I was running....Magenta all around....
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mi3 mikes vegas layout 2007.pdf (412.2 KB, 133 views)
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Old 09-17-2007, 09:12 PM
  #21679  
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McGoo what rear lower shock position are you running? It's missing from your set-up sheet
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Old 09-17-2007, 09:14 PM
  #21680  
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Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey guys how important is the lil 'bridge' that's on the outside of the front arms? I really hate to think that the 3 arms that I have are totally useless because the bridge is broken
check your pm's
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Old 09-17-2007, 09:14 PM
  #21681  
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Originally Posted by JayBee
McGoo what rear lower shock position are you running? It's missing from your set-up sheet
oops...i am all the way down on the furthest hole - closest to the diff....
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. McGoo
oops...i am all the way down on the furthest hole - closest to the diff....
what?!..lol..closest to the diff..thats unique.
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Old 09-18-2007, 04:35 AM
  #21683  
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
The arms will have a lot more flex without the bridge there. If it's cracked just drop some glue on it, better than nothing.
I've cracked only one arm and didnt even notice it on asphalt. Tim Getchel ran his car like that for about a month and still was TQ at our track.

CA will get you by heat by heat, but as soon as you touch somthing it will crack again. The std arms will take a beating, thats for sure
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Old 09-18-2007, 04:51 AM
  #21684  
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Originally Posted by Mr. McGoo
I am posting up my setup that I currently have with my stock/19T Mi3. For 19T i go one spring step softer in the rear.....

This has been one of the best handling cars I have ever owned. I am really diggin' this car and I am pretty darn excited about Vegas!!!

edit...just realized I didn't put what tire compound I was running....Magenta all around....
it is a fast setup. McGoo is running the same laptimes as a 13.5 but I know he does not run 7mm ride height in the rear. I am sure that it is 4mm and 7mm lift
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Old 09-18-2007, 07:09 AM
  #21685  
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Originally Posted by theisgroup
it is a fast setup. McGoo is running the same laptimes as a 13.5 but I know he does not run 7mm ride height in the rear. I am sure that it is 4mm and 7mm lift
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Old 09-18-2007, 09:10 AM
  #21686  
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LW bulkheads and parts are in at Schumacher UK (according to the Sept Newsletter).....just ordered mine

Chaz
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Old 09-18-2007, 09:51 AM
  #21687  
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still august news letter on the website...
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Old 09-18-2007, 10:00 AM
  #21688  
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New parts are on UK Website
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Old 09-18-2007, 10:15 AM
  #21689  
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Most of the set up sheets that I'm seeing for carpet (including Mr. McGoo's) are showing guys running a servo saver. I ran all outdoor season without one, but am thinking about adding it for the carpet season.

Now I haven't been keeping up on what the general consensus was about what was the best method(last I saw was the Kimbrough medium), but I thought that most of the methods guys were using caused clearance problems with the wider "stiff" upper deck.

So how are guys getting around clearance problems?

Comments along with pics are definitely welcome.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-18-2007, 10:30 AM
  #21690  
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i have implemented a sweet system using the following components:

carpet chassis/upper
kimbrough heavy duty saver
standard servo mounts

the extra material on saver ear needs ground , but when centered in the cutout (widthwise) it will clear the bulkhead and top deck. sorry, no camera at the moment.

now the best part (imo) is what i figured out with the adapter. i flipped it upside down, and attached the servo plate from the bottom (with short button head screws), and the trackrod attaches from the top with it's own set of screws. so the plates are separated by the adapter. this puts the servo plate low enough to get keep it near perpendicular to the horn at the end points, but leaves the trackrod where it was, so that bump steer isn't affected.

i rule. (i was having doubts about this recently)

i like the medium length track rod when used with the kimbrough heavy duty saver. saver ball mounted in long centered hole on the kimbrough.

maybe i'll bust out mspaint and really show my skills...

- harold petrie -

also, i noticed the plates fit loosely over the adapter. that can lead to movement upon contact. to fix this, i ran a few coats of c/a on the i.d. of the plates. just something i thought i'd mention. now they press on, which will help keep things from shifting.
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