YOKOMO Touring Car BD-7
#2071
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Hi guys, which servo horn is everyone using ( which length) And does anybody know what the length of the yokomo aluminium ones are?
Also has anybody added an extra shim underneath the top deck for the central, middle top deck screw, there seems to be a gap between the motor mount part and the top deck..
Thanks
Also has anybody added an extra shim underneath the top deck for the central, middle top deck screw, there seems to be a gap between the motor mount part and the top deck..
Thanks
Make sure your chassis is flat before securing upper deck screws
Tight belts may be preventing this ?
#2073
Does a Ronald/Hayato set-up sheet exist for the Reedy Race?
#2074
BmpI don't think Hayato drives for Yokomo anymore. I haven't seen him at the track in a while. They said he went back to Japan.
I found out why some people can run a bigger pinion than 49T with a 96T spur. Depending on where or when you got your kit, your motor mount center post may or may not have extra machining for pinion clearance. It looks like it was a rolling production change.
I found out why some people can run a bigger pinion than 49T with a 96T spur. Depending on where or when you got your kit, your motor mount center post may or may not have extra machining for pinion clearance. It looks like it was a rolling production change.
#2075
Hi guys, which servo horn is everyone using ( which length) And does anybody know what the length of the yokomo aluminium ones are?
Also has anybody added an extra shim underneath the top deck for the central, middle top deck screw, there seems to be a gap between the motor mount part and the top deck..
Thanks
Also has anybody added an extra shim underneath the top deck for the central, middle top deck screw, there seems to be a gap between the motor mount part and the top deck..
Thanks
Taller the servo horn, the more aggressive the steering response.
Not sure on the length of the aluminium one.
I have noticed the screw that holds down the top deck on the motor mount has left quite an indent in the top deck. I assumed that it was due to the amount of flex on that area, maybe it does pull the top deck down to the motor mount slightly.
#2076
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
Im using an Xray T4 servo saver, which is the same dimesnion as the plastic kit one. (20mm from spline centre to ball joint hole centre)
Taller the servo horn, the more aggressive the steering response.
Not sure on the length of the aluminium one.
I have noticed the screw that holds down the top deck on the motor mount has left quite an indent in the top deck. I assumed that it was due to the amount of flex on that area, maybe it does pull the top deck down to the motor mount slightly.
Taller the servo horn, the more aggressive the steering response.
Not sure on the length of the aluminium one.
I have noticed the screw that holds down the top deck on the motor mount has left quite an indent in the top deck. I assumed that it was due to the amount of flex on that area, maybe it does pull the top deck down to the motor mount slightly.
#2077
cheers guys, this is very helpful as I haven't built any top cars other than X-rays for years. I put in a 0.1mm shim which fit perfect on my car, after looking to see if its possible tweak, it seems that no matter what, it was a 0.1mm gap, so I decided to put a shim in.
Next thing I have found is, there seems to be quite a lot of movement for the wishbones on the inner hinge pins, is this normal. Ive looked at many setup sheets for this and all the factory drivers seem to use about .2mm extra. Even with this I have quite a lot of movement. Is this intended, or does it vary from each carbon part, and should I add more?
thanks!
Next thing I have found is, there seems to be quite a lot of movement for the wishbones on the inner hinge pins, is this normal. Ive looked at many setup sheets for this and all the factory drivers seem to use about .2mm extra. Even with this I have quite a lot of movement. Is this intended, or does it vary from each carbon part, and should I add more?
thanks!
#2078
Tech Regular
Interesting, which manual do you have?
The manual I downloaded before I bought the car says to use 4mm of spacers on the rear hinge pin. My printed manual (that I used when I built the car) says 4.3mm (a 2mm and a 0.3mm behind the arm).
Page 14 in both manuals.
You need a little movement, but only enough to keep things moving freely, no more.
The manual I downloaded before I bought the car says to use 4mm of spacers on the rear hinge pin. My printed manual (that I used when I built the car) says 4.3mm (a 2mm and a 0.3mm behind the arm).
Page 14 in both manuals.
You need a little movement, but only enough to keep things moving freely, no more.
#2079
It is quite a lot of movement, even with 4.3, so I will add a bit more, probably only a couple of .1's...
Do the aluminium spool bearing cams give solve the issue of the front spool binding up in the bearings? I am hoping that they are designed to fit slightly better?
Also, could somebody tell me how to set up the servo horn and steering link? I am using a sanwa 801 servo and i will put it the 1 notch in as per the manual (even though i don't get that) but I usually aim to get the link perfectly sideways when on full lock left and right. With the std horn and ball this seems impossible. should I aim to do that, or should i be aiming to achieve something else with my servo position?
THanks!
Do the aluminium spool bearing cams give solve the issue of the front spool binding up in the bearings? I am hoping that they are designed to fit slightly better?
Also, could somebody tell me how to set up the servo horn and steering link? I am using a sanwa 801 servo and i will put it the 1 notch in as per the manual (even though i don't get that) but I usually aim to get the link perfectly sideways when on full lock left and right. With the std horn and ball this seems impossible. should I aim to do that, or should i be aiming to achieve something else with my servo position?
THanks!
#2080
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Motor Mount Support
A few pics about this item
Note, even with mount screw removed, there is no gap to upper deck
Secondly, note the difference in shape where material has been removed on later vers mount (installed on car), to allow a larger pinion gear
Rear arm spacing...
My kit instructions call for 2 fr, 2.3 rear, there is a tiny gap, perfect imo
Note, even with mount screw removed, there is no gap to upper deck
Secondly, note the difference in shape where material has been removed on later vers mount (installed on car), to allow a larger pinion gear
My kit instructions call for 2 fr, 2.3 rear, there is a tiny gap, perfect imo
#2081
Tech Initiate
Can anyone tell me why there is a differents in rollcenters for carpet and asphalt.
If i look to the basic setup for carpet , they are using 1mm shim on the innerside in the front and in the rear. So in this way they are lowering the rollcenter and it give the car more space to roll.
For the asphalt setup its the opposite way.
No 1mm shims , so they are making the rollcenter higher.
So the car has less change to roll.
I was thinkin that , more roll (lower rc) gives more traction.
And less roll (higher rc) gives less traction.
So on carpet is normaly more traction , and on asphalt less.
Am i think wrong or is there another theory ? :-)
If i look to the basic setup for carpet , they are using 1mm shim on the innerside in the front and in the rear. So in this way they are lowering the rollcenter and it give the car more space to roll.
For the asphalt setup its the opposite way.
No 1mm shims , so they are making the rollcenter higher.
So the car has less change to roll.
I was thinkin that , more roll (lower rc) gives more traction.
And less roll (higher rc) gives less traction.
So on carpet is normaly more traction , and on asphalt less.
Am i think wrong or is there another theory ? :-)
#2083
#2085
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Can anyone tell me why there is a differents in rollcenters for carpet and asphalt.
If i look to the basic setup for carpet , they are using 1mm shim on the innerside in the front and in the rear. So in this way they are lowering the rollcenter and it give the car more space to roll.
For the asphalt setup its the opposite way.
No 1mm shims , so they are making the rollcenter higher.
So the car has less change to roll.
I was thinkin that , more roll (lower rc) gives more traction.
And less roll (higher rc) gives less traction.
So on carpet is normaly more traction , and on asphalt less.
Am i think wrong or is there another theory ? :-)
If i look to the basic setup for carpet , they are using 1mm shim on the innerside in the front and in the rear. So in this way they are lowering the rollcenter and it give the car more space to roll.
For the asphalt setup its the opposite way.
No 1mm shims , so they are making the rollcenter higher.
So the car has less change to roll.
I was thinkin that , more roll (lower rc) gives more traction.
And less roll (higher rc) gives less traction.
So on carpet is normaly more traction , and on asphalt less.
Am i think wrong or is there another theory ? :-)
More chassis roll on carpet is easier to drive, especially on a high grip track
Perhaps on large, high speed, outdoor circuits, less roll is advantageous for more stability ?