protc3

iTrader: (13)

the 2.5 block gives you toe out on the arms or inboard toe.you straighten the wheels out with the tie rods.im not 100% on this but it seems to give the car the similar effect as the reactive castor 1/12th front end.this seemed to make the car turn in real good and hold it through the corner.it doesnt necesarily make it more aggressive.i could be wrong but it seems to reduce the castor angle during suspension compression(which happens entering the corner)and increase the castor angle under acceleration.again,i could be wrong so feel free to correct me.

Fred Perkins

iTrader: (264)

Thanks man!
One other stupid question. When you mount the body (mazda 6) The rear wheels arn't in the wheel well indents on the body. I lined up the front so there in the wheel wells but the back isn't. I have allways just cut the wheel wells to the wheel base of the car but, an I doing this wrong? Should I lengthen the wheel base of the car to match the body I am running?

Thanks

P.S. The bumper is right up against the inside of the body and the wheel wells line right up.

Kenneth Tan

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

Has anyone used the new aluminium diff outdrives with the black aluminum bones of the standard kit? I did fit on the plastic clips on the bones, but he bones seemed a tad loose inside the outdrives. Will the bones bend? Thanks.

mike ivy

iTrader: (51)

Hey Fred,

I would leave the wheelbase alone compaired to my Yokomo BD the Cyclones wheelbase is just a tick shorter dont worry you built the car right LOL...

Aurra Sing

Nope, the rear wheel wells are meant to be cut according to your car's wheelbase (thats why the crease isn't that thick.) Cut the front wheel wells and use the excess lexan to trace a circle for the rear. Or better yet, use a circle cutter...

Fred Perkins

iTrader: (264)

Thanks guys! I was just checking. I thought I was doing it right just second guessing myself.

I can't wait to run this car! Excllent build!

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Fred I want to be the first to whack it at the end of the straight when your broad side!!!!!!!!!!!:lol Hope you bring that car to the ORL2 race as I want to look at the newest version and all the blue stuff. If you kick my ass with it I might have to sell the car I run now and buy another Cyclone.:lol

EvilDriver

the Alumimum bones will twisted and bend. I used the standart bones for one mod race meets it twisted.. and bend .. So Now I just used the 48mm Steel ones from Hotbodies..
FYI theres 2 diffrents part# I believe one for the fronts and the other one is for the rear..
you could also use Tamiya 48mm Steel Bones too..

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

here's something I came across on RcMart:
Spool adapter that fits the one-way unit.

Skill

Surely this would just create a "locked one-way" where both wheels can free-wheel but have to spin together, and not a proper spool?

XrayFK

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the way that they look in the picture, they will lock with each other, not with the one-way.

Nathan Parker

aka xray type locked one way

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

I ordered a set of those, but I was sent Mini Z bearings instead. All you would have to do is drill a hole in the middle of the oneway and a hole in the middle of the out drive conector thingy, thats what I was going to do.

Andrew_Carter

Surley just easier to buy a TIR spool if you want a spool?!

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

Buying is easy, making/modifying it yourself is satisfying especially when you have the machines to do it properly