Salkin

Simmi, is this not your setup sheet:

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...urg2014030809/

It also specifies a split XC block (for the front-rear).

Salkin

Yes, a pair of XC split blocks comes with the 418 kit. Along with a pair of XA split blocks.

Simmi

I´m a Little confused because in the Manual the split Blocks is discribed as Ca and Cb mean C?

Can you simply swap the sides of the split block and get XA or A and XC or C?

Salkin

I can understand this The number you refer to are numbers I have only seen in the manual. They are also referred to as BA31 and BA32.

I'm not concerned with those numbers, and you can see in the manual, that they are depicted with the 1C 1XC marking.

And yes, you swap them to get either C or XC. That was what was confusing me.

I have now learned, that if the setup sheet, like Marc's, specifies separate B blocks for the front-rear, you take the "1B 1XB" blocks and place them so that the "1B" is closest to the center of the chassis.

In Marc's setup, he specifies separate XC blocks for the rear-front, you take the "1C 1XCB" blocks and place them so that the "1XC" is closest to the center of the chassis.

The B or the BX simply specifies in which direction the separate "B" blocks are required to be facing.

xrayaustin

iTrader: (12)

Juat taking a glance at jilles setup from ets-luxembourg. Noticed he went back to old style droop measurement. Only thing i am still curious about is if he is running the new ball studs? And if he is does he include that +1 in his sheet or is it that amount of shims u run total

so if it says 2.5mm does that mean old ball stud with 2.5, new ball stud with 1.5 +1. Or new ball stud with 2.5 + 1 (3.5 in total).

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

How do you guys mount the fan on the chassis? Servo tape? Shoe goo?

Simmi

@Salkin

Thanks for the explanation, drove since two years 417-418 and have always fitted the blocks the wrong way, so that always other results came out

I must say that my swapped blocks were not as bad. Last time I drive in Front B-XB and in Rear A-D. Good Grip and fast time.

Now it's time to go out and Win with the new experience

Shame on me a bit

Done my Setup ...

Salkin

Looks nice

Salkin

I use this:

http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/electr...10stk/details/

cplus

iTrader: (11)

He told me on Facebook he always uses old style ball studs.

So you need to subtract 1mm from the numbers on his sheets if using the new ones.

xrayaustin

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for that

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

If anybody in the US is interested in trying the Samix CF chassis that's very lightly used (only on carpet) give me a shout via PM and let's make a deal. Chassis only, didn't get the motor mount.

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

I love this car. First run yesterday. Out of in road for a while and when I was it was all AE. I got talked into trying Tamiya and the 418. Couldn't be happier.

bosschick

Hi.

I noticed that sometimes the basic difference in setups are the shims under the ball studs under the camber links.

What effect does the following have in the handling of the car?

1. Front - increase no. of shims under the ball stud
2. Rear - increase no. of shims under the ball stud
3. Front - shorten the camber link length
4. Rear - shorten the camber link length

Thanks.

Worst87

@ bosschick:
1. Increased shims --> lowered rollcenter on the front --> more steering, less rear grip, slightly more rollangle
2. lowered rollcenter rear --> more rear grip, less front grip(steering)
3 and 4:
Not that easy to answer: While pitching (braking or full acceleration) the rollcenter height of the respective axle moves up or down MORE if the camber link is shorter!
To break it down, as much as possible: With short links the car should understeer more on corner exit and oversteer more while braking!
But shorter links result also in more camber gain. In my opinion the upper effects are bigger (especially balance wise)