2923Likes1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...
02-02-2014, 02:05 PM
#9976
I think I may not understand how pod droop is measured, then. When you say 1mm of pod droop, you'd be setting that with shock length (so inside spacers or turning the end eyelet), but where do you measure that 1mm? At the center of the car, so the front of the pod?
You measure pod droop with the chassis horizontal and then the most lower part at the rear of the pod
Off power the car definitely steers better, and if I stay off power and let it slow down, it then suddenly has a ton of steering. It's a visible change in behavior as the front seems to "catch" and turn the car in.
As i said, use heavier centre spring to get it to be more steady
I'm using the defacto Savox 1251mg, which I believe has a .09 speed. I don't use expo and I don't change the servo speed, full endpoints but my dual rate is down to around 70s or 80s depending on the layout.
Don't know what radio you use but turn servo speed down a bit
The front springs are the stock, pretty soft ones. Using Pit 571/572 tires, with 1.5* of camber up front and a 10* caster plate. The tires seem to make full contact, but I'm wondering if I have the camber/caster combination right, as the SP-1 was designed around foam tires.
You measure pod droop with the chassis horizontal and then the most lower part at the rear of the pod
Off power the car definitely steers better, and if I stay off power and let it slow down, it then suddenly has a ton of steering. It's a visible change in behavior as the front seems to "catch" and turn the car in.
As i said, use heavier centre spring to get it to be more steady
I'm using the defacto Savox 1251mg, which I believe has a .09 speed. I don't use expo and I don't change the servo speed, full endpoints but my dual rate is down to around 70s or 80s depending on the layout.
Don't know what radio you use but turn servo speed down a bit
The front springs are the stock, pretty soft ones. Using Pit 571/572 tires, with 1.5* of camber up front and a 10* caster plate. The tires seem to make full contact, but I'm wondering if I have the camber/caster combination right, as the SP-1 was designed around foam tires.
Normally i run all my F1 or WGT cars with a TC shock as they have more oil in them and work way better.
Also i change rearpod droop by lenghtening or shorten the ballcup on the shock , not by running more preload
Regards Roy
Last edited by Pro10noob; 02-02-2014 at 02:28 PM.
02-02-2014, 02:23 PM
#9977
Spotted at the ETS... Pics are up on Red RC gallery. New Ride F1 tyres and wheels 
http://www.thard.co.uk/?p=44
http://www.thard.co.uk/?p=44
02-02-2014, 04:42 PM
#9980
The side profiles of the 2014 F1 cars are really nice.
Glad to see the lower nose look back in F1. Once the nose rule is adjusted we should start have some really all round beautiful looking modern F1 cars.
Glad to see the lower nose look back in F1. Once the nose rule is adjusted we should start have some really all round beautiful looking modern F1 cars.
02-03-2014, 12:00 AM
#9984
Think of it in relation to wheel rotation. Hold your car flat in the palm of your hand not letting the pod move and blip the throttle. The nose comes up. Nail the brakes. The nose goes down. To smooth that out you need to have the center shock built right. How much pack? More slows piston response: smaller holes, less holes and or heavier oil. How much rebound in the shock? There should not be any rebound at ride height, front and rear pod level. Ideally it should be zero rebound. The weight of the oil and holes in the piston in relation to the spring weight over the distance traveled determines the rebound rate of the system (the speed at which it returns to level). One item you haven't mentioned is sag. That is the amount the chassis and pod joint lower to under load. Not enough and you lose weight transfer forward during deceleration or braking. Too stiff of a spring, too much pack or a shock not built right will put that weight transfer right back on you rear wheels as sag is rebounding too quickly. Of all of this, the rebound is most important. Too much of any weight oil will turn that center shock into a pogo stick. Your car will accelerate great and lose front traction the second you let off the throttle.
I think I may not understand how pod droop is measured, then. When you say 1mm of pod droop, you'd be setting that with shock length (so inside spacers or turning the end eyelet), but where do you measure that 1mm? At the center of the car, so the front of the pod?
Off power the car definitely steers better, and if I stay off power and let it slow down, it then suddenly has a ton of steering. It's a visible change in behavior as the front seems to "catch" and turn the car in.
I'm using the defacto Savox 1251mg, which I believe has a .09 speed. I don't use expo and I don't change the servo speed, full endpoints but my dual rate is down to around 70s or 80s depending on the layout.
The front springs are the stock, pretty soft ones. Using Pit 571/572 tires, with 1.5* of camber up front and a 10* caster plate. The tires seem to make full contact, but I'm wondering if I have the camber/caster combination right, as the SP-1 was designed around foam tires.
Off power the car definitely steers better, and if I stay off power and let it slow down, it then suddenly has a ton of steering. It's a visible change in behavior as the front seems to "catch" and turn the car in.
I'm using the defacto Savox 1251mg, which I believe has a .09 speed. I don't use expo and I don't change the servo speed, full endpoints but my dual rate is down to around 70s or 80s depending on the layout.
The front springs are the stock, pretty soft ones. Using Pit 571/572 tires, with 1.5* of camber up front and a 10* caster plate. The tires seem to make full contact, but I'm wondering if I have the camber/caster combination right, as the SP-1 was designed around foam tires.
02-03-2014, 12:55 AM
#9985
Think of it in relation to wheel rotation. Hold your car flat in the palm of your hand not letting the pod move and blip the throttle. The nose comes up. Nail the brakes. The nose goes down. To smooth that out you need to have the center shock built right. How much pack? More slows piston response: smaller holes, less holes and or heavier oil. How much rebound in the shock? There should not be any rebound at ride height, front and rear pod level. Ideally it should be zero rebound. The weight of the oil and holes in the piston in relation to the spring weight over the distance traveled determines the rebound rate of the system (the speed at which it returns to level). One item you haven't mentioned is sag. That is the amount the chassis and pod joint lower to under load. Not enough and you lose weight transfer forward during deceleration or braking. Too stiff of a spring, too much pack or a shock not built right will put that weight transfer right back on you rear wheels as sag is rebounding too quickly. Of all of this, the rebound is most important. Too much of any weight oil will turn that center shock into a pogo stick. Your car will accelerate great and lose front traction the second you let off the throttle.
The SP shock is basically a TC shock, and a decent one at that. I drilled the top and built it dead, so no rebound, using the stock piston and 35wt oil. The stock sprig is pretty soft, much softer then the Spec-R 2.5, which was the softest TC spring I had.
The pan car tuning guide says:
------------
SPRING
LIGHTER - more rear traction and better control on bumpy tracks. much
off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out
of the corner
STIFFER - less rear traction. much on-power mid-out steering, little
off power steering
OIL
Controls the front to rear grip bias.
LIGHER - balance to rear (more rear traction)
HEAVIER - balance to front (more front traction/steering).
------------
So, that's why I went all the way up to the 3.0 Spec-R spring, but I haven't touched the oil yet. The guide doesn't say anything about sag, though.
02-03-2014, 05:41 AM
#9988
Try going back to the stock spring and going heavier on the oil? I'd only go to a stiffer spring from the kit if traction was really high. Everything else from your settings sounds really good. You might want to try some harder front springs and make sure you have front droop (less preload) a little higher. I know that sounds backwards, but it will help keep the transfer weight forward and keep the unloaded tire on the track.
I think sag is what I was asking about earlier when I was trying to figure out what the ride height should be in the middle, so front of the pod. Right now I have about .5mm of sag.
The SP shock is basically a TC shock, and a decent one at that. I drilled the top and built it dead, so no rebound, using the stock piston and 35wt oil. The stock sprig is pretty soft, much softer then the Spec-R 2.5, which was the softest TC spring I had.
The pan car tuning guide says:
------------
SPRING
LIGHTER - more rear traction and better control on bumpy tracks. much
off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out
of the corner
STIFFER - less rear traction. much on-power mid-out steering, little
off power steering
OIL
Controls the front to rear grip bias.
LIGHER - balance to rear (more rear traction)
HEAVIER - balance to front (more front traction/steering).
------------
So, that's why I went all the way up to the 3.0 Spec-R spring, but I haven't touched the oil yet. The guide doesn't say anything about sag, though.
The SP shock is basically a TC shock, and a decent one at that. I drilled the top and built it dead, so no rebound, using the stock piston and 35wt oil. The stock sprig is pretty soft, much softer then the Spec-R 2.5, which was the softest TC spring I had.
The pan car tuning guide says:
------------
SPRING
LIGHTER - more rear traction and better control on bumpy tracks. much
off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out
of the corner
STIFFER - less rear traction. much on-power mid-out steering, little
off power steering
OIL
Controls the front to rear grip bias.
LIGHER - balance to rear (more rear traction)
HEAVIER - balance to front (more front traction/steering).
------------
So, that's why I went all the way up to the 3.0 Spec-R spring, but I haven't touched the oil yet. The guide doesn't say anything about sag, though.
02-03-2014, 07:12 AM
#9990
That chassis is made by Cross its called the 2008 fire fox. It was the chassis they developed after the original cf-01. Have never seen it race though. You can find it at www.rc-cross.jp